Shadow Rose

3 hours ago, Lancek said:

Great Collections only sells graded coins.  And not all of those will be worth grading.  Although sometimes they will let you send raw coins and they will send in for grading.  At their lower cost.  They also have a low commission.  5%. But they do also charge a 10% fee to the buyer.

Heritage only wants the very high dollar stuff.  Leaving you with the bulk of your collection.

You could check with local auction houses.  Many have sold off estates with large coin collections.  A few in my area have gotten pretty knowledgeable about coins.  One holds coin only auctions 2 or 3 times a year.  So he has a pretty regular set of coin collectors that show up.  I used to find some real bargains there, but as word has gotten around, thing now go for retail+.  They generally charge 10 to 15% commission, but they don't charge a buyers premium.  So things might sell for more.  Lower end coins that aren't worth grading would sell better with them.  

Also, there are hosting sites like HiBid and Proxibid that have dozens of coin auctions each month.  From a variety of auctioneers.  My local auctioneer started listing all coin sales on HiBid.  Best of both worlds when selling.  You get local buyers that can pay more for coins because they aren't paying a fee.  And online exposure for the rare/high dollar coins that may attract a certain type of buyer.

 

 

Nothing within 250 miles of me on hibid and it doesnt seem like theres anything within a few hundred of me on proxi either. The downside of living in the middle of a desert i suppose. Might be a nice way to sell off the other stuff i have though.

4 hours ago, Lancek said:

https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/japan-5-yen-y-71-yr.231948-yr.241949-cuid-1131919-duid-1443768

 

Thank you!

Its either japanese or chinese. I think chinese cause of the symbols but i cant read either so i have no clue. Found it while sorting out some quarters.

17 minutes ago, JKK said:

In this case a few was about $75-100K worth. The collection ultimately hammered for a grand total of just under $150K.

Wow. That's a lot.

2 minutes ago, JKK said:

It's not a fake auction thing--they're absolutely for real--but I was surprised at how many they just wanted to buy outright. It's not like they were definitely declining to auction them, but I'll never really know because I didn't push it; that's when I began to back away. You saw my logic above: sounded like a car trade-in offer, where you know you are getting less for the car because they know they can sell it for more. That difference, that profit, I wanted for my client, not for them. Maybe if she'd been in an urgent hurry for the money it'd have been different, but she was not and my marching orders were to get her the best outcome.

Ah okay. Bit odd they would do that for a few coins though considering their massive auction house.

3 minutes ago, JKK said:

I can confirm that. I helped a local lady sell her dad's gold coin collection through GC and there was zero trouble getting in touch with Ian. The thing I liked most about GC was Ian's know-how of likely grading outcomes and recommendations for those that did not slab the first time, or did but he felt were worth shooting for a CAC sticker (indicator that the coin is on the high side of the grade, and can make it more desirable).

Also had conversations to evaluate Heritage, but they wanted to buy most of the coins outright rather than auction them. My takeaway from that was that they felt they could sell them for a profit, which same there is nothing wrong with that, but that also means that would be profit I would rather have seen my client realize. They were polite and professional, but when I did all the analysis, I felt my client would realize a better outcome at GC and she accepted my recommendation.

Thanks!

I didn't think heritage would just buy them instead of auction them. Aren't they supposed to be an auction house or is it a kinda fake auction thing?

Just discovered a coin graded as a 2007 Silver Eagle 1st Day of Issue Burnished Planchet MS 70

I googled the different words but nothing seems to mention if its good or bad.

Oh and another graded one had a little bit of the eagles rays from its sun missing. I wonder if that's bad...

5 hours ago, Coinbuf said:

@JKK has given you the same advice that I would.  From your earlier post I think you have some items of value but it needs to be evaluated before you can really develop a plan on the best steps to move forward.  You can also call Great Collections and ask to speak to Ian (the owner) and see what advice and/or services he can provide, Ian is top shelf and will might be able to point you to someone that he may know in your area of the country to help with an early assessment.  If you have not already I suggest that you make an inventory of what you have using excel or something similar to help you sort and track what you have. 

Eh really?

I never would have expected that you could just speak to the owner like that.

Also i did start making an inventory today thanks to you. Seems like it will take a few days

Thanks!

1 hour ago, VKurtB said:

I see your grandpa’s stuff is in Eagle brand holders. I love that stuff. Are you sure you’re not a time traveler and you’re MY unborn grand-daughter selling my collection that my son passed on to you?

Lol.

I'm still using them to. Grandpa left an entire box of eagle cases so i've been putting any fairly valuable coins like the walking liberty half dollars in them.

I rather like their look.

4 minutes ago, Modwriter said:

Check out Great Collections. 

Yeah that's the only one i have heard of before.

I was just wondering of other peoples opinion on this since i'm trying to sell off my grandfather's collection and generally where to sell them is confusing. It seems auctioning them is the best but i'm not sure what should be considered as auctionable. Also roughly how much should the grading cost of a coin be vs the cost of the coin itself? Whats the cut off on auctioning as well. Do i sell some $5 usa mint sets at auction or just the $70 silver sets etc. Should the us mint coins be graded or their sets? Do i even sell sets or lots of a specific coin or do i do it coin by coin etc.

I am reading up on it more but its hard to find a clear answer. Doesn't help that my ability to tell one ms from another is horrible either. Here's a morgan silver dollar that i found today btw. I say ms65 but i know im wrong right? Its just the only shiny morgan ive ever seen so its either polished or ms65 eh? I also dont understand polished coins at all. Are they worthless or not? Everything makes it seems like polished is worth almost nothing. Generally what percent would a polished coin go for or are they just considered a specific grade and then a percent of that grade?

Thanks for the help!

6 hours ago, Just Bob said:

Before collectors, dealers, and third party graders began using all 11 mint state grades, Gem Bu (GBU from your fist post) was usually considered the equivalent of MS65. At that time, MS65 was a pristine coin with very few marks. I don't honestly see any of these coins as MS65, even by today's more relaxed standards. Most would be MS63 or below, in my opinion. Other members may have a different opinion.

That is not to say that I don't like them, though. I have always had a thing for commemoratives, even though I only have a few in my collection.

By the way, judging by the pictures, I don't think that any of these, or the gold commems from your other post, have been polished.

Thanks!

1 hour ago, gmarguli said:

Overall they appear to be MS63-MS65 quality. The TPG are very loose on grading commems, especially the BTW which frequently come poorly struck so what look like marks on the portrait is just areas not fully struck up. 

This is one coin that dealers frequently can't grade and will buy them at low generic UNC prices (and sell gems at lower unc prices). If you're looking to sell them, consider running them through Great Collections who have discounted grading fees with the TPG. 

Ah there's one that doesn't have extreme grading costs that are accepted as a good grader? I didn't know that. Thanks!

9 hours ago, RWB said:

The scans don't show any signs of polishing or other deliberate mishandling.

The series extended from 1946 to 1951, and struck at all three mints. From the NGC guide:

"For the initial offering year of 1946, 200,000 sets were issued, and an additional 800,000 coins were minted in Philadelphia. While many of these coins were likely melted in 1951, no records were kept as to the quantity of each date and mint mark that were destroyed. Sales were abysmal, and many coins were either released into circulation or melted. Nevertheless, all three mints coined this type annually through 1951 in ever-diminishing quantities that went straight to speculators and those few collectors who stayed with the program each year. Only the 1950-S and 1951(P) coins had significantly larger mintages, around half a million each, but again these coins were mostly returned to the Mint in later years for melting. All Booker T. Washington halves minted after 1946 aside from the 1950-S and 1951(P) issues are better coins price-wise due to their significantly lower mintages that range from 6,000 to 8,000 coins each."

Typical prices are about $50 to $100 but coins dated after 1946 might bring more depending on condition. In my opinion, these values are on the edge of whether or not it is cost effective to have the coins authenticated and graded by NGC. Scans do not present enough information to make good grading judgements, so there might be a really nice piece among the coins you have.

Others on this message board are much more involved in the "slabbing" routine than I, and can probably be of greater help to you.

Unfortunately getting a grade from ngc or pcgs seems almost impossible due to the cost and the coins worth. At least i dont have that kind of money.

7 minutes ago, RWB said:

Much better. You have 1949-1951 P-D-S sets of the commemoratives. I don't see anything exceptional - just average Uncirculated pieces with typical bag marks and scrapes. Others will be able to give you more information.

I have all 3 1948s to.

24 minutes ago, RWB said:

These should help. They are only 700 pixels wide so they can't take much enlargment but they will give the OP something discuss with members.

I also made high quality JPG 11000x19000 and Medium 2500x4400 images.

Thank you!

I figured out how to resize and brought them down to 2100ish resolution but its individual coins. Gonna see if i can get them all on one page on imgur.

Got it. Deleted the drive links and put up the imgur album.

On the plus side now i wont have this problem in the future.

1 minute ago, Just Bob said:

If you have MS paint, you may be able to open the pictures with it, then resize and save as a jpg.

Ive always wondered how people use ms paint like that.

37 minutes ago, kbbpll said:

Yeah, 500+mb is not something I'll download. I notice they are bmp files, so in addition to reducing the resolution, save them as jpg. I'd still recommend trying to use a camera instead. Doesn't your scanner allow selecting DPI and file format?

It does but i'm not 100% sure how to switch between the settings atm. Ill see if i can change it by tomorrow. Unfortunately my camera isn't good enough for coins.

Just now, RWB said:

Can you resample down to 1200 x 1200 pixels, then post. It is a starting point.

I'm not sure how i do that. Is there a site that does it?

1 minute ago, RWB said:

Might help to post the photos here. Some members, including me, will not open or download unknown data sources.

Ah sadly the pics are like 522 mbs due to the resolution and each coin is like 30 mbs which is higher than any site allows x.x

My grandpa left me some coins and i was just wondering what grade they seem to be. I have about 40 or 50 coins that that are sealed in rather bad cases which im changing out. I'm debating on doing the bag of early to mid 1900 coins that i have as well. I mainly wondered if they were polished and if possible to narrow down their mint states. I just thought maybe you all would be interested in helping.

I'll update this whenever i have some more scanned. 

The first on here are booker t washington half dollars. Grandpa had written GBU for all but the first one but since gbu is between multiple mint states i dont have a clue which one they actually are. Unfortunately i am terrible at telling the difference between ms grades and its extremely confusing. One site said gbu is 65 and 66 and then another said 67 and up which just made me more confused while trying to grade these.

Thanks for the help!

Resolution on each coin is 2100 or so incase you want to zoom in a lot.

https://imgur.com/a/InodWL0

2 hours ago, kbbpll said:

The AU range is 50-58, for example on this page. https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/gold-commemoratives-1903-1926-pscid-72/1915-s-g1-panama-pacific-ms-coinid-17449

There's probably a better reference but the Sheldon scale is described in more detail here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheldon_coin_grading_scale

Great photos! Edit: oops I see that they are scans. In my experience, scans make coins look circulated when they might not be.

Thanks again!

11 hours ago, Modwriter said:

Eye appeal-good, some luster, coloration-good, good strikes, minor surface damage. AU50 to58.

 

How do you find AU on ngcs ms ratings? There a lot of lettered ratings before the ms ones but none of them are au so im a bit confused about it.

3 hours ago, Conder101 said:

Do NOT try to clean or polish them!

Yeah. I never intended to. I mainly just wondered if grandpa had bought polished ones.

2 hours ago, James_OldeTowne said:

Gold coins intended for circulation do, indeed, frequently show traces of wear.  When a commem shows wear, however, one usually attributes that to casual handling, which has the same effect of imparting friction, abrasions, and other characteristics of circulation.

Ah okay. Thanks!

47 minutes ago, VKurtB said:

It seems unlikely to me. The marks that are there don’t indicate a harsh cleaning or polishing.

That's great. Now i'm debating on putting my other non proofs on here and seeing if their polished or not to since grandpa never kept records of that.

Thanks again.

1 hour ago, jgrinz said:

ALL XF-AU in my book but all very desirable 

Nice set

 

Thanks. 

Do you happen to know if they could be polished? I'm not sure how people tell that.

As far as i know grandpa didn't buy polished coins but i might be wrong so i like knowing.

1 hour ago, kbbpll said:

What kind of phone is it? You can take decent pictures of coin with a phone, even in plastic. It takes practice. Try natural light. Put the coin on a window sill but not in direct sun. Find your camera's focus sweet spot. On mine, if I zoom in about 30% and hold the phone farther away, I get much better focus. Take images directly over the coin, but adjust the angle a little in various directions so reflections etc are not inside the coin's circle. Take a bunch of pictures. Go thru them and zoom way in, looking for sharp focus. I bet you can get some good images for us. The problem with these is too much reflection from a harsh light source.

I then pull up my images in Paint on my desktop and crop them. I personally don't care if people on here do that or not - I can save off the image myself and zoom in or rotate it.

Its only a $100 motorola. It has 8 mp but thats not enough. I scanned them on 2400 dpi with gloves so ill upload them in a bit.