Sandon

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Unfortunately, what you have is an extremely crude cast replica or "fantasy piece" (a.k.a. counterfeit or fake) that combines the obverse and reverses of these two types, which doesn't exist as a genuine coin. Many such pieces, as well as more deceptive counterfeits, come from Asia. Note the very weak details and rough surfaces. Compare it to photos of any genuine coins of these types in any condition, such as those on the NGC Coin Explorer (under the "Resources" tab on the NGC home page) or PCGS Coinfacts (www.pcgs.com/coinfacts), and you will immediately see the difference!

Welcome to the NGC chat board. "Nickels" are composed of 75% copper, 25% nickel. The copper is highly reactive and will darken upon exposure to a variety of chemicals or environmental conditions. It is also possible that a colored substance was applied to the surface as suggested by @Coinbuf. It is also conceivable that the copper-nickel alloy was improperly mixed and contains too much copper. However, we would have expected to have seen more reddish 2011-D nickels from the same improperly mixed batch of metal. It would require metallurgical analysis to determine this, and it's unlikely that collectors would be willing to pay much of a premium for it. (I note that some of the reddish color has worn off the high points of the coin, which also makes this possibility unlikely.)

It appears that you do have a doubled die obverse ("DDO") here, but it is a very minor one. NGC VarietyPlus doesn't list a DDO for the 1972-D Kennedy half dollar. (VarietyPlus is under the "Resources" tab on the NGC home page.) It is my understanding that NGC would likely treat the coin as a normal 1972-D half dollar and not attribute it notwithstanding your payment of the $18 variety attribution fee, which NGC would keep anyway. If this variety is listed in some print or online reference, it is possible that some other service such as ANACS (anacs.com) would attribute it. Have you checked sites such as doubleddie.com and variety vista.com for a match? If there is no match, you might ask ANACS if they would attribute it as a discovery coin.

I agree! I have been a collector and student of numismatics for 52 years. In my experience, only major or spectacular errors, such as coins struck way off center or multiple times in different positions or on wrong planchets, or major die varieties such as the 1955 and 1972 (Redbook variety). doubled die cents and clear "over-mintmarks" ever attract enough attention in the market to be worth a substantial premium. Most of these errors and varieties can be seen with the naked eye or low magnification. True scarcity is also a major factor in whether a coin ever becomes really valuable. Hucksters have promoted certain errors or varieties that they own in quantity to make money on them, after which their values tend to decline. Others gain a continuing following among a small minority of collectors, who will pay a modest or moderate premium for them. I assume that by "Superman" quarter @FrederickMorris means the 1952 proof quarter with a tiny squiggly line inside one of the eagle's breast feathers that resembles an "S". This is generally known as the "Superbird" variety and is listed in the Cherrypickers' Guide and other detailed references and attributed by grading services. (I've never heard of and can find no reference to a 1953 "Superbird".) This is one of those high magnification varieties that has a following among a small minority of collectors. I recently examined the 1952 proof set that I bought many years ago and found that I had one. I would not have paid a premium for it then or now. We are dealing daily on these forums with new or casual collectors who claim to have found--or worse purchased for a premium--significant errors or varieties. In most cases, these are coins with post-mint damage or alterations or ugly pieces that were struck from worn dies. Others are in our opinion minor anomalies such as the barely visible "14th star" on the edge of a modern dollar that originally started this topic and are unlikely ever to carry substantial premiums. We regard this as a consumer protection issue and seek to educate these younger and inexperienced collectors about them. Others may have different opinions.

@FrederickMorris--You asked in your initial post in the "Newbie Coin Collector Questions" forum, You now claim to be an experienced collector who has substantial knowledge of these edge variations, including from mint personnel, claim that they are valuable, and disagree with three members of this forum who sought to advise you, two of whom (@VKurtB and me) are also older, experienced collectors and the third of whom (@RWB) is a numismatic scholar and published author, whose series on the evolution of production processes for U.S. proof coins is currently being published in The Numismatist. This is not to say that any of us knows everything or couldn't make a mistake. However, if you were confident that you already knew the answers, why would you ask us? While you may find "extra star(s)" or other edge letter anomalies on modern dollars interesting and are free to look for and collect them, so far as I know, they have attracted no great interest in the numismatic marketplace and are not attributed by grading services. You are free to contact NGC, PCGS, and ANACS to make your case in this regard. (ANACS often recognizes errors and varieties the other services don't.) If you and your friends are finding a lot of these coins, they are probably too common to attract enough demand to become very valuable, assuming that enough collectors find them interesting. They may indeed be "errors", but not all errors are or will ever be valuable. That is determined by supply and demand! Regarding the differences in production methods for circulation quality and proof modern dollars with lettered edges, the seventh edition (2021) of A Guide Book of United States Coins--Mega Red (the expanded deluxe edition, with a special section on dollar coins) at p. 887, goes into some detail, in pertinent part as follows: "For circulating and Uncirculated Mint set coins, after coins are struck on coinage presses [presumably with a plain collar], the struck coins are transported from the coin presses to the edge lettering equipment. . . . The coins pass through an edge lettering segment or die bearing the raised lettering that is imparted incuse on the finished coin. . .." (quoting from Coin World article). "For Proofs the edge lettering was applied with a three-segmented collar during the striking process." This discussion pertained to the Presidential dollars, but nothing in this book or anything else that I have read indicates that the edge lettering processes for American Innovation dollars are any different. From what source do you have different information?

I also understand that the proofs are struck in a three-part or "tripartite" collar similar to those used on "Indian" head eagles and St. Gaudens double eagles. The edge lettering is imparted as the coin is struck. You can see grooves on the edges of coins so struck where the pieces of the collar came together. I've never heard of blundered edges on coins so struck.

As Peru was a Spanish colony until 1821, no coins could have been issued in the name of the Peruvian Republic in 1800! The NGC World Coin Price Guide indicates that an 1800 Peruvian 8 reales coin had the bust of Spanish King Charles IV on the obverse and the Spanish coat of arms on the reverse. The later dated coins of the design on yours are sharper, smoother and usually more finely engraved. Your coin has the appearance of a cast counterfeit. Although I'm not an expert on these coins, it would appear that this is a counterfeit or "fantasy piece", whether of nineteenth century or more recent origin.

25 cents in Extremely Fine, per Coin World, the minimum grade listed there. The OP said I was mean and has purportedly quit the forum because I told him things like this!

I assume that you are referring to the faint star between the two bold stars as a "fourteenth" star. Anomalies in the edge lettering on small dollar coins made since 2007 aren't very uncommon. The only ones that have attracted a following and are listed as being worth a premium in standard numismatic price guides are earlier (mostly 2007-2009) Presidential dollars with missing edge lettering (completely plain edges). The NGC Price Guide also lists a 2007 John Adams variety with completely doubled edge lettering. (It might be helpful to see the entire edge of this coin.) I doubt that NGC or other reputable grading services would find this anomaly significant enough to certify as a mint error or that collectors would pay much for it. Perhaps someone else on the forum will have a different opinion.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please post pertinent photos and more details about your inquiry. In 2019 the U.S. mint issued Native American dollars with a design showing ten stars on the reverse. The mint also issued four different American Innovation dollars, one of which, the Delaware issue, has six stars on the reverse. All five issues also have stars on the edge. To which issue and which mint are you referring, and where do you see an anomaly? EDIT 2/4/23: For the benefit of those reading this topic for the first time, @FrederickMorriscompletely changed his initial post from "2019 $1 coin with 14 stars, has this come up before" and no photos to instead initiate a debate as to what sorts of mint errors are worth collecting.

I guess Kurt is referring to the PCGS chat board members. PCGS will gladly take his money, chew, and swallow! (So would NGC.) After spending several hours of my time trying to educate this member, I may as well have a little fun.

A coin worth less than several hundred dollars isn't worth sending to a grading service! Your common date Indian cents range in grade from Very Good to Very Fine, with January 2023 Coin World retail values ranging from $2 to $5 each. Dealers would pay about half that much for them if they want to buy them at all! NGC would charge a grading fee of $23 per coin, plus a $10 per order processing fee, plus shipping and insurance. (For coins valued over $300 the grading fee goes up to $40.) You would also need a paid NGC membership. PCGS has similar rates. ANACS is cheaper but still multiples of the retail value of the coins. You should invest your money in a current "Redbook", a grading guide, and a subscription to Coin World or a similar publication with a monthly price list, as described in the "Resources for New Collectors" topic to which I already gave you a link. Coins like yours are best stored in albums (such as Whitman or Dansco), which are much more compact than grading service holders and provide adequate protection and an attractive display. FYI, here's a 1900 Indian cent graded MS 64 RB by PCGS--RB means it has a lot of original mint color--with a retail list value of $200 (your dates would be about $125). Even in this grade, it's probably not worth the grading fees! Photos are courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

This now well-circulated, scratched and corroded 1986-P quarter was struck from worn dies. The thin raised line is a die crack, which is common on both older and modern coins. Coins struck from cracked dies show these raised lines because metal flows into the crack as the coins are struck. The coin also appears to show a small "cud" above the "T" in UNITED, although it could just be damaged. (A "cud" is the unscientific name given by collectors to the blob created on coins struck from a die from which a piece has broken out.) Coins struck from worn dies generally aren't considered to be mint errors and aren't worth a premium. However, if you enjoy collecting them, you are welcome to do so. We don't need to see every one that you find.

This would be considered a minor error or quality control issue and wouldn't likely be attributed by a grading service. Contrary to what you may have seen on the internet, it's highly unlikely that you will find significant errors or varieties in circulation. If you enjoy collecting such pieces, you are welcome to do so!

VAMWorld shows a number of 1903 varieties that have "doubled reverse lettering", but your photo doesn't include the areas of the coin containing the die markers for these varieties. I suggest you go to 1903-P VAMs - VAMWorld and compare your coin to these varieties. Frankly, I'm not sure that your coin is a doubled die, as much of the doubling appears at two different levels or "shelf-like", indicating common strike doubling. NGC VarietyPlus doesn't include any 1903 varieties, so NGC probably wouldn't attribute this coin. If you can identity the VAM or believe it's a doubled die and want it certified, you could try ANACS (anacs.com).

You shouldn't have substituted your 1922 Peace dollar for the 1991-D Lincoln cent, since all the replies before this one are about the cent and will confuse future readers! It should have been a new topic! Someone put an adhesive substance on the back of the 1922 dollar. It was probably mounted on a wall or other surface. Due to this damage, it is worth only its silver value. It is one of the most common silver dollars and isn't worth much more in circulated grades anyway. Before you can be an "Errorfinder", you need basic knowledge about U.S. coins and their grading and valuation. Please refer to the following topic for print and online resources from which you may obtain such knowledge:

Welcome to the NGC Chat Board. This is simply a damaged 1991-D cent and worth face value. Contrary to what you may have seen on TikTok and other non-numismatic sources, it is virtually impossible to find valuable mint errors and varieties in circulation. You need to learn what such pieces actually look like and how they are created during the minting process, such as articles you will find through the search bar on the NGC home page--try "mint errors"--and sites such as error-ref.com, doubleddie.com, and varietyvista.com. You should be able to eliminate the unnecessary white space by clicking the three small dots at the right side of your post and going to "Edit".

As I recall, the U.S. mint still hand punched mint marks into dies until about 1991. However, I can't see a repunched mint mark on this coin, which has die deterioration doubling as stated by Greenstang. Some of the copper plating appears to have flaked off near the mint mark, as sometimes occurred with this thin, sharp mint mark style.

Your contention is that NGC holders are not only airtight but watertight, notwithstanding NGC's warning that they are not designed to be either! Just because the NGC holders with which you experimented didn't contain noticeable amounts of water after being improperly floated in it doesn't mean that moisture (humidity) didn't increase in the holders or that the coins they contain won't deteriorate over time as a result! Respectfully, you have presented no factual basis for your contention. You may believe what you wish, but you should not state your opinions as facts!

NGC makes no such representation! To the contrary, the "FAQs" for "NGC Labels and Holders" on the NGC website include the following item: Is the NGC holder airtight or watertight? The NGC holder is sealed using ultrasonic welding — a safe, clean and secure process — that helps to protect the coins and reveal attempts at tampering. This process is not designed to create an airtight or watertight seal. See NGC Grading FAQs - NGC Labels and Holders | NGC (ngccoin.com) The NGC Guarantee specifically excludes from coverage coins in holders that NGC has determined to have been adversely affected by varioujs "improper storage" conditions, including "moisture". While grading service holders will protect coins from one's grubby fingers and certain other hazards, so will other much less expensive holders!

It was most likely accidental, from the coin being scraped by other coins, keys, machinery, etc.

1938 Washington quarter, PCGS MS 65, in an old green label holder, which I purchased in March 1994:

This is another example of post-mint damage from being scraped. The right side of the "8" is also scraped.

It is fallacious to argue that inexpensive--or even quite valuable--coins should be certified by grading services to "conserve" them! In fact, neither NGC nor PCGS guarantees that coins that they have certified will not deteriorate in their holders! The "NGC Guarantee" provides that, "[t]his Guarantee does not apply to certain Coins where the appearance of the Coin changes or deteriorates over time and such change or deterioration is responsible for any discrepancy between the assigned grade and the Coin’s actual grade. . .. In certain Coins, natural environmental deterioration may cause undesired features to appear, such as (but not limited to) spotting, hazing, PVC and corrosion." Moreover, NGC will only guarantee the grade of copper coins for ten years, after which they will be treated as "raw" submissions. See NGC Guarantee | Coin Certification Guarantee | NGC (ngccoin.com) PCGS applies a similar qualification to all coins. The PCGS Guarantee of Grade and Authenticity provides that "[t]he PCGS Guarantee does not apply to coins exhibiting environmental deterioration subsequent to PCGS grading and encapsulation. This deterioration may include, but is not limited to, spotting, hazing, PVC contamination, changes in color, and corrosion." See PCGS Guarantee of Grade and Authenticity - U.S. and World Coins. Grading service holders are likely no better than inexpensive, inert plastic holders such as square polystyrene "snap tights", round capsules or even mylar flips for "conserving" coins! Lucite boards cost more but are more durable than grading service holders and still far less expensive than the cost of certification. A great deal of air and whatever pollutants were in it when the coin was encapsulated continue to make contact with a certified coin's surface, and the holders aren't guaranteed to be airtight either. Many coins have toned or otherwise changed over time in grading service holders, usually not for the better. I have stored brilliant uncirculated as well as circulated U.S. coins composed of copper, copper nickel and silver alloys in albums (mostly Whitman Bookshelf and Classic but also Dansco and old Library of Coins) albums for decades, some since the 1970s. All but a few or the coins have remained relatively unchanged in these albums, perhaps because much less air circulates over the coins' surfaces and edges than in a certified holder. One must be careful not to touch the coin with bare hands before and during its insertion into the album and to make sure that it is seated below the upper plastic slide to avoid "slide marks". The aforementioned hard plastic holders are definitely better for silver dollars and other larger coins, in which I have also successfully stored coins for decades. (Storage of coins in a cool, dark and dry space is also important.) Such storage saves a great deal of space and weight, as well as expense, in comparison to third party grading!

Breen's Encyclopedia (p.272) states that Mint Director James Ross Snowden invented the "neologism" "trimes" and admits that the term "hardly got into use outside coin-collecting circles, if there." Collectors usually refer to them as "silver three cent pieces" or "three cent silvers" for short. The 1865-89 copper nickel three cent pieces are sometimes referred to as "three cent nickels".