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Posts posted by Hess4
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3 hours ago, CRAWTOMATIC said:
With both dimes & quarters the I and W are farthest from the center so you'll generally see the weakest strike in those areas. Even at times where the letters get soft & mushy toward the rim. Like the upper portion of the L & I on your coin are showing.
Thank you so much for the information !
I learned something new today that I didn’t know about, so I appreciate you!
<Tracy
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10 minutes ago, Dukemnm said:
Yes they do. They are very cool aren't they? I've always favored P mint not sure why but I find they have a better eye appeal.
Just waiting on one of the pros to confirm the weak strike. I am not a pro yet
Yeh I’m a newbie so I don’t know very much but I’m learning everyday! I love the guys on here! They are so great and so helpful idk what I would do without them! They probably will be sick of me before it’s over! Lol🤪
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8 minutes ago, Dukemnm said:
Looks like a weak strike. I am also asking about a die of the same year and mint
Thank you! I was just checking out your dime photos . Ours both seem to have the weak strike in the exact place! Thanks for your help!
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36 minutes ago, Greenstang said:
You called it right. To be more specific, it looks like it was acid dipped. If you have a set of scales, weigh it and see if it is less than 2.5g.
I don’t have any scales yet but am planning on getting some soon and I will definitely weigh it and see!
As always thank you for the info!
>Tracy
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1 hour ago, Mohawk said:
Hey Hess!
Longtime, no see! Glad to see you're still with us. Now, onto your quarter. From the photos provided, I don't see anything indicating a doubled die. I think that you have some machine doubling there. While machine doubling is notoriously prevalent on US coins from the mid 1950's to the 1970's, it certainly did not go away entirely past that time. I've seen many coins from the 1990's with it as well and a lot of them have been Washington Quarters.
Sorry the news wasn't better. It's good to see you back though
~Tom
Thank you Mohawk , it’s good for be back! I’ve missed y’all and as always thank you for the information.
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I'm a newbie so I won't be much help but the guys will be able to help you when they can get to it. You might want to start a new topic/thread of your own to make sure they see it. They might see it under mine though. Oh I see what you see to but I have no idea about it. Good luck
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6 minutes ago, Just Bob said:
The lighting on picture 2 is different from the other two pictures. That makes it difficult, if not impossible, to compare the strikes accurately.
I know ! Someone else had taken the pics and sent them to me but I will send new ones soon for y’all to look at again !
As always thank you so very much!
>Tracy
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1 hour ago, Mohawk said:
Tracy....
You are not a lost cause. These things can be tough to learn. Though I no longer collect US coins at all (I much prefer my Roman coins) but I do sell them. When I first got started selling, you wouldn't believe how long it took me to discern the differences between the 1970-S Small and Large Date Lincoln Cents. There's a huge pricing difference between the two....the 1970-S Small Date is a key in the Lincoln series and commands a good premium. The 1970-S Large Date is nothing special in both formats aside from some doubled dies. One day, after trying to figure this our for months and looking at many pictures and examples of both types, it just clicked in my head and now I can tell the difference even in some bad eBay photos! If you keep working at it, you'll figure this out, too. I think you definitely have what it takes.....I wouldn't tell you this if I didn't really mean it. I've seen people who are hopeless in this hobby. You're not one of them. What I would do is this: let your eye heal up, because that injury is going to impede your learning process here, and then keep reading articles and looking at coins. I really think that you'll have that "Eureka!" moment like I did with the 1970-S Small and Large Date cents.
I hope that this helps!
~Tom
Thank you as always Mohawk! It’s hard for me to stop even to let my eye heal, especially when I can’t do much of anything else right now, but I will try. Lol
That explanation JKK gave made a lot of sense, so I’m hoping it sticks with me. Thank you as always for being so kind and patient and pushing us newbies always in the right direction!
>Tracy
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2 hours ago, JKK said:
Always glad to help. One problem with photos, which may or may not be surmountable, is that sometimes a shaded side of a letter looks like something else. Taken in a different light or from a different angle, the same thing might not be visible. In any case, mechanical doubling looks like shelfy ghost images, and the second image is always lower in profile. That's what gives it the shelf-like effect. If it's a real double die, neither image will be shelfy or much lower than the other; in all the true double dies I've seen at least. While both images may not be the same level of relief, those I have seen are similar enough to each other in level of relief that both have the same type of rounding or flattened top, at about the same height.
So if you have one full profile image, and one that's like a ghostly lower profile shadow, pretty sure you can say it's mechanical and thus happened at striking. If you have two full profile images, that probably happened at the die's creation from the hub.
Thank you so much that explaination you just gave helped me more than all the pics and videos I’ve been watching and studying! It really made things click a little better believe or not! Again as always thank you for all the help!
>Tracy
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3 minutes ago, JKK said:
I don't see anything that looks like doubling, even mechanical. There are a couple of intriguing bumps at 10:45 on the reverse edge, but I don't know how to interpret those, and I doubt they would confer major value if they were mint-originated (as opposed to crudulations that I might not be seeing as such).
I’m sorry I’m down to one good eye after a recent accident, hopefully not for long but anyway I guess my one good eye isn’t very good either! Lol. I don’t think I will ever be able to figure out the double dies unless of course it’s very prominent which most are I know , but those that are close to mechanical or very subtle, I believe I’m a lost cause! Believe it or not I’m really studying and watching videos trying to get it down. Thank you as always for your time and info!
Tracy
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I have these Delaware state quarters that are still in the mint wrap and I was wanting to see if in picture #2 if you see no ear on Washington as I do compared to the other 2 pics 1&3? The pics are not great but they were taken and sent to me by someone else , so I apologize in advance . I would appreciate any and all input you may have!
Thank you as always!
>Tracy
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9 minutes ago, Just Bob said:
Believe it or not, Chuck E Cheese tokens are collectible. There are even websites devoted to them. Here is one of them.
If could find an example with the name of a Mississippi city, I would certainly add it to my collection.
Unfortunately mine doesn’t have the city on any of them. I actually did know they were collectibles when I ran up on them while trying to research about the coinage company token I received. I really didn’t know they were collectibles until then though. Thank you so much for all the great info you have given me on tokens and the great websites to help me. I really appreciate you so much for all your time and info you have put into this thread!😄
>Tracy
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21 minutes ago, Greenstang said:
Either PSD (Post Strike Damage) or PMD (Post Minting Damage) are correct and your also correct.
To help you in determining if a coin is an error, it is just as important to know what is not an error. Any dings, scrapes, flattened letters, scratches, gouges etc. are all considered damage. It is only an error if it happens during the actual striking of the coin. To see what an actual error is, I suggest looking through the following site "error-ref.com" to see what real errors look like. This is just one of the sites available for recognizing errors.
Thank you so much!
>Tracy
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11 minutes ago, Greenstang said:
Copper at times can produce some nice toning.
Yes definitely! I’ve seen some on the web that are beautiful!
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Maybe it’s just my one eye playing tricks on me but it looks like some one is trying to get out of the memorial on reverse right in front of where Lincoln sits. Lol
Just curious if anyone else sees the same thing. I just thought it was rather cool! If nothing is there I plead the 5th and blame it on my injured eye!
Thank you as always!
>Tracy
1977 Washington quarter
in Newbie Coin Collecting Questions
Posted
1977 D Washington quarter. Is this considered a RPM and is the A in America on reverse does it look like it’s been repunched also or is it considered doubled. Also can you tell me if you see doubling any where else. Thank you for any and all help