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B.L.21

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Posts posted by B.L.21

  1. On 5/13/2020 at 12:54 PM, JKK said:

    Don't forget to differentiate between bag marks/dings and wear. A fully uncirculated coin can have terrible bag marks. One good cue to circulation is the fields: even a short period of circulation will litter them with thousands of microscratches, which even low mag can bring out. I rarely say this on here, but I think you might well be undergrading based upon how you categorize the contact marks. I'd take very good looks at the fields and see if they have the motley microscratch collection of circulated coins.

    I looked and moved them around to see the fields...I don’t see those micro scratches. I have MS 62 NGC certified Morgan’s I’ve been comparing them to...they appear nicer so I’ll assume they’re 62’s. 
     

    Also, JKK...you’re awesome...I’ve got both those websites saved and printed off the first one about grading...thank you so much!

  2. 1 hour ago, Just Bob said:

    Want to have some fun? There are a gazillion VAMs for this year and mint mark. Go to VAMWorld and see if you can figure out which one yours is. (Hint: First determine if it has a 16 berry or 17 berry reverse. That will narrow your choices considerably. And, disregard everything below the "Formerly Listed" heading. Those numbers are not valid anymore.Reading that will only cause confusion.)

    LINK HERE - Good luck!

    Challenge accepted...

  3. 8 minutes ago, Greenstang said:

    Yes, that is a die crack. A die crack will be raised.. If it is incuse, then it would probably be a scratch.

    It can't be a cud as a cud involves the rim where a portion of the Die has broken off.

     

    Awesome, thanks! Would it add any value to this? I read some die cracks can..otherwise I’m thinking this is just an AU coin.

  4. On 5/11/2020 at 6:55 PM, JKK said:

    Here's some more information. Note the importance of determining whether a mark is in a prime focal area, secondary focal, or outside focal areas. If you overpaid, and I think you may have somewhat, consider the extra a form of tuition because it caused you to learn just how you should have evaluated them. You'll do better next time.

      Thanks,  after looking...I put the 1921 at AU55 the 96 and 85 at AU 50 due the wear on the obverses, mainly the cheeks. I’ll use these guides in the future, much appreciated.

  5. 2 hours ago, JKK said:

    It's hard to tell from those pictures. Also, there's the thing about teaching a man to fish vs. giving him a fish. Here is a good site showing the high points (where you would expect wear and/or strike weakness) of the Morgan design. Examine yours, under mag if necessary, to see if the high points have wear (a simple magnifying glass can tell you a lot). What looks like wear could also be detail that did not strike up fully. Note that, while you would not grade most coins with magnification, you would use it to ascertain questions like this, seek evidence of cleaning, and/or investigate damages and varieties.

     Nice, thanks for that link...sadly from I see and compare to...I may have over paid a little... I’ll definitely use that link prior to buying another Morgan lol...as always, much appreciated for the input and assistance.

  6. On 2/4/2020 at 9:43 AM, Kirt said:

    For the two 1889s, I don't think so. The second has a pretty significant ding right on her jawline, a prime focal area so it wouldn't come close. The first seems better but you'd need to get to MS65 to clear the $100 threshold that many use to determine if a coin is worth slabbing. I am not good at grading over 58/60 but I'm confident the first 1889 would not hit MS65.

    The 1921 is extremely common, sorry to say. Again, you'd need to clear MS65 to be in that $100 range according to our host's price census. The coin has too many dings and scratches on the cheek to be near that grade. On the reverse there's a large something between "we" and "trust". It is most likely a ding, but if it is raised check the VAMs on VAMWorld (http://www.vamworld.com/wiki/1921-P_VAMs) just to be sure. I didn't see anything but I also am not spending huge amounts of time scrolling through all those VAMs. Most aren't recognized by the TPGs, so even if you have a VAM you'll need to be sure it is recognized -- and worth sending in.

     


     

    Thank you!