bwolper

Krzy,

It looks like post mint damage to me. How it happened, I couldn’t say. Tell Ben, bless you. 

I would call it the deviated septum variety.  Of course, it's probably the only one.

11 hours ago, Reme84 said:

Look at the boys nose!

Post pics if you can. I would be interested in seeing the coin. 

Please let us know when you get them back. I would love to know what NGC has to say. 

7 hours ago, TON Collection said:

Mohawk don’t feed into this guy anymore man. Stick to the silent treatment and it will go away . Yes I called it a IT.  Or better else a dud.  I honestly kind of feel bad because of bad denial can be for some people. All we can do is say our prayers for these individuals 

Well put, my brother.

23 minutes ago, Just Bob said:

The ones that you want to be wary of are the kind that contain PVC, which can leach out and damage the coin. They can be recognized by their pliability, and their smell - they smell like a plastic shower curtain. Mylar flips are the safest kind. They are stiffer - almost brittle, but they will last a long time. I have some that have been holding the same coin for close to twenty years, with no adverse effects, and I am sure there are members who have had coins in the same flips for longer periods of time then mine.

Not a dumb question, by the way. It was a good one, actually.

Great question, B.L. 21.  I concur with Bob.  Just make sure the flips are non-PVC containing flips.  Bob's description was spot-on.  If you are still not sure, ask at the coin shop where you buy them or check on the site where you get them.

Bruce

19 hours ago, Scigrl35 said:

Hello all,

I wonder if anyone could answer me a question about submitting coins.  I am currently starting a new invoice to submit a couple of coins, and I chose the "Label name" option, rather than "Special Label".  Next to the Label Name option, there is a blank text box.  What are we supposed to enter in that box?

Thank you for any help you may provide!  

Hi,

I see where it says "Special Label" and has a blank text and then a # and another blank text, but I don't see anything that says "Label Name" as an option.  I am looking at section 7 on the form.  Could you tell us what you see above and/or below this option or better yet, attach a phote of the part of the form you are not sure about.
I am looking forward to help.

Bruce

Those examples of dryer coins were great. Thanks for your posts. I learned something. 

9 minutes ago, JKK said:

Not much you can do with the pennies but convert them to cash.

If you want to do penny roll hunting, I have a different suggestion: don't look for rolls. Go to your dealer, who probably has a laundry soap bucket of wheaties in back that weighs enough to rupture the unwary. He has no idea how to get rid of them, less'n he hauls them to the copper people or ships them out. He knows they are worth more than a penny, and so do you, but not that much more. Ask him if he would sell you a whole bunch for a little above the melt value, which is right now about 1.85c per coin.

Since he's not going to get money for these without having to schlep them or ship them, this is his great chance to re-convert some of his massive backstock into actual capital with someone else doing the haulage. Plus, since he probably paid the seller 1c apiece (or maybe 1.1c if he wanted to look like a really swell guy) for them when the seller brought in grandpa's (massive, and mostly low value) coin collection, he's guaranteed a great profit because he'll get 1.9c per coin.

Yeah, you'll pay a little more than with rolls, but everything you get will have at least some potential to be interesting. And if you are dead set on getting your money back, you yourself can take them to the copper buyers after you've picked through them.

Thanks for the quick response and the suggestion.  The coin shop that I frequent does have such pennies.  I will shlep my pennies back to the bank and hopefully they will not be too annoyed with me.

Bruce

Folks, I need some advice on this one.

I am interested in penny roll hunting.  I went to a bank.  I told them I was a penny collector and would like to buy two boxes of pennies.  They were very helpful and willing to help even though I don't have an account.  They came back with two boxes; I paid for them and left.  I got them home and opened them.  All of the pennies seem to be new, uncirculated 2019 pennies.  I didn't open them but all of the enders seem to be the same.

What should I do with the pennies?  Should I bring them back to the same bank or a different one?  I have not opened the rolls.  Do you think I should open the rolls anyway?  It seems to be a waste of time given what it looks like.

Any suggestions appreciated,

Bruce

59 minutes ago, JKK said:

Deductive reasoning leads me to say 1880. The first two digits are automatic. The third looks like it couldn't be anything but an 8. The last could be a 9 or a 0, but there were no 1889 shield nickels, thus 1880 seems to make sense.

Great deduction. 

On 4/18/2019 at 5:38 PM, JKK said:

Much obliged. I contacted the staff about sticking it, and did not get a response, but I like that it's helping people.

It should be stuck.  The first I thought was that it needs to be pinned to the forum.  Great post!

What a very nice find.  Personally speaking, I think the condition is great, all things considered.  V., if you don't mind, tell us about your present collection, if you have one.

Thanks for sharing about your great coin.

Bruce

10 minutes ago, Mohawk said:

Hi Bruce....I think I figured it out.  The coin attached to that certification number is a 1923 Philadelphia coin.  The S on the label before the dollar sign is how NGC denotes a silver dollar.  A 1923-S coin would show 1923-S S$1.  I'd say there's the reason for your price difference.

Mohawk,

Thank you so much.  It's nice to know I am not actually going crazy.  Your clarification is very helpful.

You are very busy on the chat boards.  Your answers are always very polite, welcoming and helpful.  Thanks for the time and effort you put in.

I was interested in possibly buying a coin.  Before doing so, I checked several sources to get an idea of what I should expect to pay.  I am not submitting pictures right now as my question has more to do with the coin's certified condition and value.  The coin in question is a 1923 S Peace Dollar, certified by NGC at MS 64+ (NGC Reg. 4602367-003).

When I look at the NGC online price guide, I see the price for MS 64+ at $700.  Other sources I have checked are in the same ballpark.

I then look the coin up by NGC registration number and it states the NGC price guide value is $65.

Please help me to understand the discrepancy.  What am I missing?.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you CRAWTOMATIC.  Your input is great appreciated.

Bruce

Wow, thank you Mokiechan.  Your post thick with great information and advice.

Thank you for taking the time.

Bruce

Bob,

Thank you for the warm welcome and the good advice.  I look forward to spending time building my collection.

Bruce

Your posts are incredibly infomative.  Thank you again.  I will look forward to building a good relationship with a reputable dealer.  You suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Perhaps we will "speak" again.

Cheers to both of you.

Warm wishes,

Bruce

Tom,

Thank you for taking the time to give me such a thorough explanation.  Perhaps there will be more input from others.

Bruce

I am very new to coin collecting.  If I buy from a dealer, should I expect to pay the red book price of a coin?  I have seen many asking prices that are slightly higher than red book.  If I offer to pay the red book price, will most dealers look at me as if I am from another planet or is it a reasonable offer?  Thanks in advance for any info you might give.