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CaptBrian

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Journal Entries posted by CaptBrian

  1. CaptBrian
    Now everyone knows
    The other day, a friend of mine needed to sell some Canadian Siver Dollars. It was easy to identify the general run of the coins, but there was a little wrench in the machinery. Dots.
    Yup, large, small, and medium dots. By the time I got it all figured out, I am seeing dots.
    Here is the answer. On the 1966 there are a couple of different versions; The bead around the edge of the coins come in three sizes, small, medium, and yup you guessed it, large. Seems the difference between the arge bead and small bead on the 1966 Canadian Silver Dollar is as follows:
    The beads that are being refrerred to on this coin are the beads that circle the outside rim of the heads (obverse) side of the coin.
    Small Beads Variety - On the right side of the queens face is the inscription D.G. Regina. If you take a close look at the periods after the D and the G of this inscription and compare their size to the size of the beads, the beads are noticeably smaller than the periods after the D and the G.
    Large Bead Variety - In this variety, the beads surrounding the rim are at least the same size or larger than the periods after the D & G.
    If you do have a small bead variety its extemely rare and is worth anywhere from $1300 to $7300 depending on the condition and strike.
    You can see why I got very interested when I got four of these in very nice condition. See picture.
    Anyway, it is just another reason for loving coins. I cannot believe all the varieties.
    And to wrap this up, most of the coins are worth some amount over melt, but not much. Of course, if you find one which is in great shape, of course its value could rise. Consult the NGC World coin pricing for that answer, as it changes and has many answers depending on many factors.
    NOTE: I did read one article which used the dot position over a letter, but I feel my answer is correct. It is the size of the dots, not the position.
    Happy hunting
    Capt. Brian

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  2. CaptBrian
    Do not tone it down
    Coin toning can actually up or lower the value of coins. Natural coin toning can be quite beautiful. It can also be quite ugly.
    And because beauty is often times in the eye of the beholder, placing a value on a coin due to its toning can present problems.
    Should you pay extra or less for toned coins? After all, a coin that is toned is going through a form of corrosion, right?
    We are talking about a discoloration or patina that forms due to reactions to the metal with the elements. Air, water, humidity; all can result in a coloration changein a coin or parts of it.
    The reaction that creates toning can vary from metal to metal, silver gold copper nickel and so on.
    Coins which are toned are in a normal stage of the process. Do not worry about it, and if stored properly there is no problem. Only being in a vacuum will stop all changes.
    Your coin will not disintegrate or go to a non-collectible state.
    Even in worse cases, the tone color will usually take years to get to its darkest and least attractive appearance.
    Nowadays, a toned coin is appealing, not a detraction.
    Spots on gold coins, spots on copper coins, and milk spots on silver coins are not really part of eye appeal, but they are part of the grade and grade deductions are made similar to those made for marks or hairlines. Note that in some instances, spots can appear subsequent to grading. In the case of copper coins, the spots would result in a grading deduction, and, since there are often environmental factors. For modern silver issues, spotting is a Mint acknowledged problem. For modern silver coins, it is possible for two coins to have the same technical grade and one be spotted and one be spot-free. In these instances, the spotted coins will command a lesser price in the marketplace.
    You could call it tarnish, but that has a negative sound but same on the science level. As long as it is on a natural level, its fine. Do not arificially tone it. You will most likely ruin it.
    There are ways to tell if toning adds value to your coin.
    For most people its eye appeal. If a coin is not good looking, unless its real rare, folks are not going to buy it. On the other hand, if it is for your collection, and you like it, end of story. If collecting was all about shiny coins there would not be a problem with cleaning and polishing like your bumper.
    I would say, not considering rarity, coins with high populations but few toners, would be looking for a nice variant with toning. Morgans are a good example. There are plenty around, but one that is toned would be an example unto itself and very desireable. I will amend my article later by adding in a toned Morgan which is not rare, but pricey due to extreme toning.
    To make a point, I once sent in 20 Morgans for grading, and one came back reverse mounted due to extreme toning on the reverse.
    Obviously, the graders liked toners. Good for me on that one.
    BEWARE OF ARTIFICIALLY TONED COINS
    Some folks like to add their own value by doctoring a coin. I call that forgery. There are ways to do it, but when it gets to the grader, they will know and you will get DETAILS on your coin or it may even come back ungraded.
    I would be quite wary buying toned raw coins. Best to buy graded toned coins and that gives you a nice level of confidence. Any method or way of toning a coin beyond natures way, will and can dramatically reduce your coins value.
    Numismatic metals tone in different ways. Silver coins as a whole tone more beautifully than those made of other metals. Silver, exposed to the right environmental influences -- to small amounts of hydrogen sulfur in the air or larger amounts in albums, envelopes, canvas bags, paper rolls, leather wallets or purses, rubber bands, and some glues and paints -- can naturally turn subtle or sometimes brilliant shades of yellow, magenta, turquoise, and other colors before eventually turning black. The toning on silver is typically silver sulfide.
    Copper is the most chemically reactive numismatic metal used in the U.S., and it and its alloys -- bronze (primarily copper and tin) and brass (primarily copper and zinc) -- usually turn from red to a dark and fairly unattractive brown. But copper can turn green as well (sometimes called verdigris). Sometimes copper and its alloys can pick up multiple subtle and attractive shades of red, brown, green, blue, and yellow.
    Ancient bronze coins can pick up an attractive or desert sand patina. This sandy beige appearance over all or part of the coins surface results from the deposition of microscopic grains of silicate from sand or sandy soil.
    Nickel generally tones only slightly, typically becoming hazy gray though sometimes light golden or pale blue. Nickel coins can also pick up color as a result of PVC contamination from being stored in soft vinyl flips. On nickel, wild rainbow toning, in which multiple colors progress from one to another, is usually artificial.
    Conclusion: Toned coins are a matter of preference. I like them, you may not. Always be sure of how it got its patina. I would stay away from raw coins totally, especially toned items. Price on toned items can vary greatly, so watch the premium you add to one when buying. No one but you may appreciate the color.
    and lastly, if it is for your collection, and you like it, GET IT!
    Capt Brian
     
     
     
     
    INFORMATION HERE COURTESY OF COINSGUIDE, COINNEWS, and personal knowledge agreeing with some verbage on line.

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  3. CaptBrian
    Gold coins from Europe,Columbia,Austraila etc, IN GOLD WE TRUST
    NGC coin list back.. not bad at all, two not genuine, ( are gold though ) low end one coin poorly cleaned, so got an "XF details" grade.., one low grade XF35 and 3 - XF40, and 5 XF45... 8 in the AU range, [not too bad], and 15 in high grade, better than would be expected for almost half of the coins to come back in the MS range. Lots more fun than stox...Can;t wait to add them to my registry...
    HAVE FUN
    The Lost Navigator

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  4. CaptBrian
    Last year of issue, and all PF70 Ultra Cameo
    Adoption Central was open again last week, (actually the trading room was open) and I traded away two sets of Indians MS61, 1908 - 1929 for this set of four coins which are the last of the Roman Numeral Gold coins. (and some cash) (I still have two sets of the MS62 Indians,same dates) I guess folks who could not read the Roman Numerals got mixed up in what year they were trying to fill in, and away they went, (Roman Numerals on coins that is)
    When we started the American Eagle Gold Coin program the US Mint did not use arabic numerals on coins. Instead the date was given in Roman Numerals (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_numerals) ---For a full explanation of the Roman Numerals))
    It kind of goes on and on and this is about coins not the Roman Numerals.
    If you would like to learn all about the Roman Numerals follow the link above.
    The years of the Roman Numerals were 1986,87, 88, 89, 90 and 1991. In 1992 the dates were in normal digits.
    My four new adoptees are the four coin set, $50,$25,$10,$5. Their designation is MCMXCI. All four coins have the same Roman Numerals as they are all the same year. When it gets to the $5, it is very difficult for my eyes, and a lil magnification is helpful.
    In 1907, the U.S. Mint issued both high relief and ultra-high relief double eagle gold coins designed by legendary sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens. These coins also had Roman numeral dates on them, which appear as MCMVII. The 1907 gold coins with Roman numerals are extremely rare.
    The U.S. Mint issued a special one-year Ultra-High Relief Saint-Gaudens gold double eagle (twenty-dollar gold piece) in 2009. This coin also has the date given in Roman Numerals as MMIX. This gold coin is a tribute to the original ultra-high relief double eagles first issued in 1907. The tails sides of these coins are different than the American Eagles described above. Double eagle gold coins have the denomination spelled out as TWENTY DOLLARS.
    Not sure what else to say about this new addition. (and subtraction from my collection but you gotta admit it is fluid)
    In the coming months, as I am now retired, I am kind of rethinking my position with the large amount of modern coins and am thinking of trading them off for older, more rare ones. Not sure of my approach, but it may be to stick with the proofs. I am learning that proof coins get rarer as you look at them. From my investigations, I am finding that known coins are getting hard to find. Seems they go into collections and do not resurface.
    Capt. Brian

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  5. CaptBrian
    Franklin Mint Philippines Proof set
    Here is a picture of the proof set. Totally different from your picture and coinage. Just wanted your comment on it.
    Capt. Brian

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  6. CaptBrian
    220 years old. Quite an addition
    I recently traded 12 of my last lesser coins for one that will crown my collection as the oldest one. USA type.
    It is a 1795 FLOWING HAIR S$1. In XF40
    Two years ago, at a Stacks and Bower auction my coins cousin sold for $10,016,875. The mouth watering desiree the 1794 Flowing Hair Silver Dollar, a suberb Gem Specimen, finest known to exist. So, while the purchasing power of our US$ has gone down over the years, the value of our coins increases in value far beyond our dreams.
    The sale mentioned above was up 30% from the previous sale.
    I doubt seriously one of my coins will ever become that highly prized unless I find one in a dusty old garage sale.
    The Founding Fathers of the fledgling United States, made the Dollar the cornerstone of our monetary system in the Coinage Act of 1792. More than two years passed however, between the time Congress authorized dollar coinage and the actual production of the first such coin,the Flowing Hair silver dollar. Congress specified that the Mints Chief Coiner and Assayer, needed to post bonds of $10,000 each before they could work with precious
    metal, which represented more than six times their annual salary of $1,500. Only copper coinage could be produced, until the total $20,000 bond could be satisfied.
    David Rittenhouse, the first Mint Director, requested that Thomas
    Jefferson, the Secretary of State at that time, help in removing this roadblock in minting Americas first Dollars. In March of 1794, Jefferson appealed to Congress to lower the bonds to $5,000
    for Chief Coiner Henry Voigt, and $1,000 for Assayer Albion Cox. He also put up the money himself, so the Mint
    could produce the remaining U.S. coinage denominations.
    His annual salary was a whopping $2,000.00 annually.
    The Mints first Engraver Robert Scot, prepared designs months
    earlier, while the bond issue was in debate. The Dollars size
    and weight were based on the Spanish dollar, which was popular in trade throughout the Americas at that time. Scots initial design depicted a bust of Liberty, while his reverse featured an eagle, both required by the 1792 Coinage Act. The obverse featured a right-facing portrait of a youthful female figure whose hair flowed freely behind her, to signify freedom. The word LIBERTY appears at the top the dentilled rim, with the date at the bottom, and 15 six-point stars around both sides of Lady Liberty, split eight to the left, seven to the right along the rim, which represented the number of States in the Union at that time.
    The reverse was modeled from a 1792 25-cent pattern piece that had been designed by Joseph Wright, who died of yellow fever in 1793, after serving briefly as Mint engraver. In the center a small, spread-winged, right-facing eagle is perched upon a rock and surrounded by 2 olive branches crossed and tied at the bottom, and slightly separated at the top. The left wing (viewers right) is in front of the olive branch wreath, the right behind it. The motto UNITED STATES OF AMERICA encircles the coin. No denomination or mintmark appears on these coins, as all were minted in Philadelphia.
    The edge of Americas first Dollar, has the inscription HUNDRED CENTS ONE DOLLAR OR UNIT with decorative ornaments separating these words.
    1795 Flowing Hair Silver Dollars have two different major die varieties, commonly referred to as "2 Leaves and 3 Leaves describing the leaves on the reverse leaf clusters surrounding the eagle.
    The 2 Leaves variety is approximately three times as rare and valuable as the 3 Leaves variety, according to the PCGS population Report as of September 2011. Mint State examples of both varieties are extremely rare and very valuable. PCGS has graded only a dozen examples of the 2 Leaves variety. The finest known 1795, 2 Leaves Silver Dollars certified by PCGS are a pair of MS65 graded dollars... until recently when NGC graded a recently discovered 1795 Flowing Hair Dollar SP65.
    The First U. S. Mint Engraver, Robert Scot, created the Flowing Hair Silver Dollar, which were only produced for two years,
    from 1794 to 1795. Coin blanks for the Flowing Hair dollars
    were weighed before the coins were struck, blanks that were too-heavy were filed down to remove excess silver. These adjustment
    marks, are often still visible, as a reminder of the history associated with this early coin production. Underweight blanks were adjusted using a small silver plug in the center of the planchet, which was an easier and less expensive solution, rather than melting down the unacceptable coins and starting over.
    On a single day, October 15, 1794, a mere 2,000 Flowing Hair silver dollar were struck at the Philadelphia Mint from a single pair of dies. Out of the 2,000 Silver Dollars, 242 were found to be underweight and were eventually reused as planchets the following year. The remaining 1,758 pieces that were delivered by the Chief Coiner for circulation. Chief Coiner Voight, stored many of these first dollars in the Mints vaults, before giving them to Mint Director Rittenhouse the following May 1795.
    Mint Director Rittenhouse presented a few of these dollars to VIPs as souvenirs, but also made a point of exchanging some them for Spanish dollars, in order to get the new coins into public
    circulation. Rittenhouse never distributed all the coins, because he had to resign due to failing health in June of 1795.
    The new Flowing Hair Silver Dollars were not well received by the Early Americans, as the older, heavier Spanish and Mexican pieces continued to circulate as the preferred medium of exchange.
    Further dollar production was suspended until a new press Coinage was ordered in 1794 after it was determined that the existing presses were too small to fully strike the large dollars.
    A new larger coin press capable of imparting fuller, stronger strikes was constructed specifically for the minting of the 1795 dollars. Beginning in early May of 1795, around 160,295 Flowing Hair Dollars dated 1795 were struck for Circulation on the new coin presses. Later that year, in October 1795, this first dollar design gave way to a new Draped Bust Dollar,making the Flowing Hair Dollar just a two-year type coin.
    Today, the survivors of the short-lived Flowing Hair design dollars are of the utmost rarity and desirability within serious numismatic circles. There are around 120-130, 1794 Dollar survivors today, in all grades. The 1795 Silver Dollar is
    more common, but the demand from type collectors keeps prices high. Over 2,000 1795 issues are listed in census population reports. Mint state pieces of both dates are extremely rare. There are no official mint records of Proofs for either year, but a unique 1795 dollar was recently graded a specimen strike
    by NGC as SP65. Flowing Hair dollars are highly desired by serious collectors, not just because of their great rarity, but also because they possess such a powerful link with the birth of our nation, and the beginning U.S. coinage.
    Just for fun, the following records are reproduced here:
    Top Valuable Flowing Hair Dollars:
    1794 $1 PCGS Specimen-66 (PCGS). CAC Sold For: $10,016,875.00
    1794 $1 PCGS Specimen-66 Sold For: $7,850,000.00
    1794 $1 MS61 NGC Sold For: $747,500.00.
    1794 MS63 PCGS Secure Plus Sold For: $1,500,000.00 (not verified)
     

  7. CaptBrian
    Do we need CAC, MAC and now PQ? Scrape off those stickers!
    I know evolution is a reality for many things. I'm sure coin grading is well involved (or should I say, ensnared) in a manufactured market regarding our wonderful coins.
    I started collecting before all this static came into the picture. I first saw the pretty glitter of physical silver and gold and as you know, if you have been following me, was enticed into numismatics as physicals became boring and not a lot different from trading equities and other investments.
    As a former stock broker, including commodities and insurance, I certainly have seen, heard and felt extreme fear and greed.
    I fully understand how this has happened, this sticker war now evolving.
    First it was my chore to understand grading, of proof and mint strike coins. then, cam grading as I began to have a table at various shows around Florida. As folks would come to me with raw coins I attempted to figure what grade, hence value was the coin offered me for cash.
    The best I could do was to keep a jewelers loop and grading book handy. I use the Official Whitman Guidebook of Numismatic Grading Standards. It has held me in good stead but still have to be wary of many pitfalls and mines lurking with the coins that show up over the counter.
    In my travels I have bought four counterfeit coins and have been offered many Chinese fakes. I'm getting better.
    Due to the charlatans and thieves out there, I can understand how the new sticker crowd is showing up on the scene.
    I feel these companies are jumping on a lucrative bandwagon of an industry fat with money and wealthy people. This sticker war, I feel, must be stopped.
    The two main coin graders NGC and PCGS were first on the scene. Now there are many. Along came ICG, and trying to sell one of those green labels is a fools errand unless you are asking bullion price. Most dealers will not pay over bullion.
    Going to the two main graders, they have the full grades through and up to 70. Should the graders find a coin is a little better than a full grade, there are plus and stars they use to enhance a grade, but not go to the next higher.
    I feel the label makers are totally useless and are making a market along with one with a near perfect system. If it works, do not fix it.
    I mean, have you ever seen a PF70 with a star or plus? NO you have not! WHY? Because a 70 is the best, the pinnacle, the apex the holy grail and so on and so fourth.
    So now, if you have a PF or MS 70, the labelers want to say, Oh, we think this coin is not a good 70 so we will not grade it. It has a spot or flaw. Fine. If a coin is graded at a trusted grader such as NGC and is used by the ANA, then why do we need a 2nd opinion? I mean, do we need all graders and labelers to agree that one specific coin is better than any other?
    What if it is a 70, and CAC doesn't like it. So you send it to PQ. And if they don't like it,you send it to MAC and so on. How many stickers must we have to prove our coin is tops? Twenty, and what if the 23rd company does not like it? Do we need three or more stickers along with the graders grade?
    No,I think this is total nonsense. If NGC or PCGS is not trusted, then why have them grade the coin or why buy it in their holder.
    This subjective, manufactured market is getting out of control and I do not like it.
    I am not going to jump on the bandwagon, and have three or more stickers on my wonderful coins. I will not stay away from a coin graded by a trusted grader because it does not have the sticker.
    At the present time there are myriad coin graders, and then along came the labelers.
    You do what you like, but I am sticking with the pros and not going to be dragged into this whirlwind. I say PFMS70 is good enough for me.
    If you are not sure what we mean, follow this link.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=pq+coin+sticker&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS407&es_sm=122&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=BnL-VLe4AsOkNqa3hKAH&ved=0CE8QsAQ&biw=1160&bih=904
    You can see all the labels stuck on our coins.
    At the F.U.N. show in Orlando last January, I was approached by MAC labelers. For $20 they would double the value of your coin. I thought it sounded pretty good until he sat down with a stack of envelopes, and began writing out a bill before he even looked at my coins. He was simply interested in the money, and I could see what he was about to do. I sent him away.
    Then I went to his booth and tried to buy a certain silver eagle and he wanted many times its value. Like, $10,000. I made a call and a friend I knew had 2 of them and would sell them for $4500. This fellow bellowed that he would pay $9500 thinking I could not get the rare item. When I took him up on his big mouth, he screamed and yelled. I went to the authorities at the show, and told them what he was doing and in no time, his booth was empty. If you see a coin with the MAC label, it was a purchased label, not a graded coin.
    What do you think?
    Capt. Brian
    The Lost Navigator

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  8. CaptBrian

    Stuck in Neutral

    By CaptBrian,

    Dear Dad, no mon, no fun your son...
    Well, all my funds for adding to my collection are used up. Any funds coming in, will be needed for taxes, ROTH IRA, and SEP IRA. Does anyone know if or how we can buy coins, [registerd coins] and have them in our retirement accounts. This is probably my last year for adding funds to those accounts so it is imperative I stop playing for a few minutes and pay attention to retirement.
    I am already going into the shakes, has been a month already since I have added a new coin. But wait, I just remembered, I have 16 coins in the hopper, put in May 10th, so I should be hearing of their grades soon.
    Whew, that feels better. Any way, the question stands, about the coins in IRA's.... any help is appreciated
    Capt. Brian
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  9. CaptBrian
    The first 20 years of the most beautiful coin in the world. The American Silver Eagles
    I am working diligently completing my 'polishing up' of my sets, pictures, and discriptions of my collections. It will take a while. I know there are some pictures here that need to be cleaned up, and I will get to it ASAP, but enjoy as I have them for now. I also just aquired 42 more ASE's for my stash, and I just can't get enough. The last 42 are not grading coins, just believe in silver.
    HAVE FUN
    Capt. Brian & Helen
    PS I have these coins in a beautiful [silver printed] wooden box, and in actuality, I have two boxes, and only need one. I had to get two boxes to complete the set.
    So one is for sale. If you want to complete your set, then buy my box for a reasonable amount,and I will send it on to you.
    If you are collecting the coins, and cannot afford a reasonable amount, give me an unreasonable amount, (at least postage) and I will sent it on to you
    Grins to ya! HAVE FUN Capt. Brian and Helen
    The Lost Navigattor

  10. CaptBrian
    Want to hit a homer, go play for the Yankees
    Yup, got it again, the sumpthin' for nuttin' disease. Or we could call it, the "if its too good to be true, it probably is."
    I've been hit worse, but this comes awful close. I bought 14 Morgans back in May. Well, just got the results back from grading expedition to Sarasota.
    7 of them were adulterated (<--sp?) or details. Seems people still like to clean their coins [when will the word get out NOT to clean them AT ALL? Leave that to the graders and pros) I did get a few MS's, even a '64.. Thank goodness, using the NGC guide, and present price of silver, if I put on my pawn shop hat, I might just break even. I suppose I will keep the 7 baddies for a rise in silver price, and begin to offer the good ones to my friends who like Morgans. I am going to be putting all mine on the block, as I am treading in a PF70 and or MS 70 direction with mostly ASE's or AGE's. Like Pt too, and even Pd but probably not enough gas here to trade up to gold or one of the P's. (Plat or Pall)
    Now the crux of this journal, is buying. I was offered all of these Morgans and they were ALL in bogus slabs with medium to high grades. I knew there was dice rolling, and I figure as I may just break even, it is not the worst deal. But following up on an earlier post, [not long ago] Please be very careful whom and where you buy from. I don't know how nor why there are so many criminals out there, but it is well to be advised they will rip your pockets off for the lint if they think there is a profit in it.
    I NEVER lie, cheat, or steal, unless it benifits me.
    So Happy Hoarding, and please watch your buying habits.
    Capt. Brian
    The Lost Navigator
    P.S. Remember, Leo is waiting for you to come into his area.
    B E W A R E

  11. CaptBrian
    Surprise suprise...My lil ole 1829 $2.5 AU55 got top honors.
    2010 Registry Award Top ranked set in the NGC Registry for
    CAPPED HEAD QUARTER EAGLES, SMALL SIZE, 1829-1834
    THIS ONE IS THE 1829 Quarter Eagle $2.5
    Gonna buy me an extra martini tonight.
    Capt Brian

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  12. CaptBrian
    Should I or should I not? Only my grader knows for sure.
    I think I have discovered my real reason for messing with coins and paper money. It is the chase, the hunt, the quest for the holy grail as it were. Yes, I buy Ag and Au due to the investment fact I feel metals will rise in price enough to cover buying stocks and waiting for good news. Economically, I feel over the longer haul of 2 - 4 years, my bullion coins will surpass the best of the stocks and indices.
    BUT...
    It is the fun, enjoyment, and satisfaction of discovering a gem in any mileau. Shows, garages, drawers, etc., can offer gleeful moments beyond description.
    BUT...
    I also, in my retirement, find myself appreciating the time spent at the bench by the artist of these currencies. Also, to my detriment, have found an eye towards artwork, and if I don&amp;#39;t stop looking I will find my retired hours with no rest.
    Last week, I got a warning from the police to stop impersonating a retired person.
    Well, to get to the point, I purchased, in a greedy moment a bag of silver along with a bunch of Morgans and Peace dollars from my jeweler friend, who takes in metals as payment, but calls me to unload the stash on as he does not want to fool with anything but money.
    So, I went to get the Morgans, and he said, (nicely) &quot;and you have to take the other coins too.&quot; Of course I said, &quot;okay&quot;. He had 89 Quarters, (all silver of course, 1964 or earlier, five rolls of dimes, (have not even opened the rolls yet) and a bunch of halfs, some walking libs, some Kens and some Franks.
    Now, I am going to a coin show in March and I figuredd maybe I sell these and some other silver items, and perhaps locate a great graded coin for my collection.
    Going thru the coins, I find many which seem very [what I call, Bright White] and catching my attention, I grabbed the loop, magnifying glass and grading book. Well, to my pleasant suprise, many of these coins are in pristine condition, some with beautiful toning (original toning, not tarnish)and as I prepped these for the coin show, the more I looked at these individually, attempting to grade them, some look pretty good. I am afraid to say in the MS 65 or higher. Is it possible that these coins should be graded? I do not need to lose the silver value I have by spending money on grading and shipping. These coins are not for my collection, (says I) but what if they ARE higher grades. Any thoughts here?
    I can take pictures and send to anyone, if you feel your grading capabilities are more than the average person. Let me know your feelings here folks.
    Capt. Brian

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  13. CaptBrian
    Attention Collectors: feast your eyes on this one.
    My phone has been humming with making trades all over the place. The other day my 1870 $10 MS60 went to Texas. The new owner was elated and the money did not grow any grass here. I found a wonderful coin which I had been secretly searching for and up it popped one day last week and I received it in my hand today.
    It is a 1907 High Relief $20 Wire Rim PF65.
    This is a collectors coin.
    Frank Leach became mint director of the San Francisco mint in 1897 after George Roberts resigned. Mr. Leach was instrumental in the making of the Saint-Gaudens coins. President Roosevelt ideas for new designs for gold coins had things in a mix. Lots of folks were important and lobbied for better looking coins. Roosevelt was the big cheerleader for that movement. The idea was to match or exceed the beautiful Greek coinage of yore. The basic idea orbited around the thoughts of future generations to have something that would mirror our then ability, art and technology. I think they succeeded.
    Leach was concerned about the high relief designs being impractical. There was also an argument regarding being copycats not originators. They wanted high relief and made to look like a medal like the ancient coins. They lost sight of the commercial requirements of producing very pretty coins. They did not catch te fact that they would not stack. Stacking was a practical requirement of circulated money of the day, and a death knell to the design.
    None of the designs met the presidents approval until 1907. Minting began from a die model made at Philadelphia. The dies gave such a high relief all effort to produce an acceptable coin were thwarted. A medal press was employed so the beauty of the design might be studied and kept in the shape of a coin, but this process needed annealing between each of the 12 blows in the presses. These few coins numbered less than 20, and were given to mint and Washington officials.
    More attempts were made, and all wound up in the crucible of the recycling smelter. All talk of size changes, and so on, went by the board.
    More changes and attempts were made by Saint-Gaudens but a 2nd and 3rd model still eluded the satisfaction and dream of the crew involved from the president on down. Roosevelt became impatient and was then was promised a satisfactory coin would soon be available.
    In a few weeks the new design was presented in much larger numbers, 12,153 Double Eagles, about $243,060, which was a lot more than was asked for and a bit ahead of schedule.
    As the fascinating and historic Leach account makes clear, the MCMVII Ultra High Relief coins were an instant rarity, and those coins today are all but unobtainable, as only 19 or 20 pieces were struck. In this way the Ultra High Relief coins are in the same class as other legendary rarities
    A so-called "Wire Rim" protruded around the outer extremity of the coins, which resulted from excessive metal flow between the die face and collar during the striking process. Unlike today's collectors who consider the Wire Rim to be a highly collectible variety, Mint officials considered it to be a striking deficiency. This "flaw" in the striking process was corrected around mid-December, and subsequent High Relief double eagles possessed what became known as a Flat Rim.
    The designer was Augustus Saint-Gaudens, and the mintage was only 19-22 pieces. There are some varieties such as lettered and flat rim.
    I could not entice the owner with money, he wanted my main battleship, my flagship, my desktop picture for about 5 years. My 1907 $2.5 PF 68 with star. Along with it went a few more and I will have a major editing job for my enfeebled registry.
    Then, before the dust settled, another series of calls, emails, text messages and a lot of horse trading, a few more coins will leave the nest as I have obtained quite a list of Roman Numeral coins which I have been searching for two years. I suppose that should be a separate journal, but they are mine and on the way. I should have them in a few days.
    In any case, I guess this one is the historical coin I was looking for.
    Enjoy the picture, and I will get it added in the registry later. I am planning on a special coin show a friend of mine and me are putting on in Inverness, Florida the weekend of Thanksgiving.
    Well, hope you all have a wonderful holiday. Do not eat too much.
    Capt. Brian
    Reference: http://www.coinlink.com/CoinGuide/us-type-coins/1907-20-high-relief-wire-rim/

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  14. CaptBrian
    Will the real price please stand up!
    Ok ok, dickering is fun. I love a good horse trading afternoon. I like to do it about 2 - 4 PM when my wits are the sharpest.
    I often find myself in the auction circle selling and buying but I can NEVER figure out how NGC or PCGS prices these things in their sites for Price Guides.
    Now take fer instance, the 2000 $10 Platinum MS70 Eagle. Some call it a liberty head (which I reserve for the Libs of the 1907 or earlier where it actually says, Liberty on the hairpiece).
    Go look at the NGC price for that coin, it has many auctions below $750. $322 is the most expensive an auction went for, not counting buyers and sellers premium which adds a little. I think 17% overall, so if we add in 17% we get: $379, NOT $750 as the guide shows.
    Some upstart company, bid4assets.com or something like that, had one sold for $425.00. More than any of the auctions sold by NGC and hundreds lower than some PCGS auctions.
    So...NGCs price is $750.00 Where did that come from? I need an explanation. But that is an easy one, get this:
    PCGS has their auctions as high as $2,950.00 and one in the $2200 range and a few in the sub $1000 range.
    How in Kelseys hat can you have a suggested price guide at $7500.00?
    A month ago, it was 6000.00. While I was talking about it the price jumped to $6500, and now I look and its $7500.
    Why I do not buy all I can with NGC label, crack out the 70s and send them to PCGS?
    There they show the population or census at 12. NGC shows 291 graded at 70, now that certainly is not rare, hard to find maybe. We need a discussion on just what is rare.
    I spoke with the head honcho of PCGS at the F.U.N. Show in Orlando last January, and he said, quote: Well, its a manufactured market. unquote. When I tried to get a conversation going about it, I got no where and he had no real intelligent response. I mean, nothing I could tell a buyer that he should pay me $7000 or more for a coin I can buy almost anywhere for under $500 easy.
    So, I walked away, dazed and confused as usual, and now I am in a worse state.
    The fellow I bought one from for $6000 allowed me 30 days inspection. After that conversation I sent it back and he credited my credit card account with my $6000. He still professed what a great deal it was at $6000.00.
    Well, since then, I have had many searches out to find one of those 300 or so in either NGC or PCGS. Not really wanting one in one of the lesser graders like ICG.
    So, today in a package from my dealer, whom I trust implicitly, as he was returning a coin I tried to get a CAC label, on which was instrumental in me not going along with the labelers, as I said in a recent journal dated this month. This is a one of a kind coin, with a PF68* and they did not like it.
    Anyway, included in the return package was the $10 Pt MS70 I had sent back.
    Ok, now what? I guess I made some sort of trade with a huge cache of coins, and he included this in the deal and it says PAID.
    Well, now I do not know what to do.
    The question remains: What is the real price of this $10 MS70 Pt coin with PCGS label? I am going to list it on ebay, and a few other websites for $8000 and see what happens. Will someone be needful enough to pay ANYTHING for a semi-rare coin?
    I say, semi-rare, because I cannot find one anywhere in NGC, PCGS or any other secondary slabber.
    Your comments are sorely needed. I intend to tell my dealer about this AFTER I try getting billions and billions for this on an auction site.
    Hope you are having as much fun as I am.
    Capt. Brian
    The Lost Navigator
    PS, I bought a 1907 $20 Lib today at a pawn shop for $100 over. It looks really great. If it has not been cleaned, I figure it for a MS61 should get me about $1700. Oh well, dice roll again.

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  15. CaptBrian

    Changing times

    By CaptBrian,

    Times seem to be changing, or I am getting luckier.
    I found some new babies for my collection. Will be getting back my Morgans in a few more days, 14 of them, and two Olympics too, one proof and one MS. Also, I will be adding in my new St G 1909 MS64, and a few golden oldies. These will be the first new additions to my registry since a while back. Also, I sold a few coins, and will have to delete them from my registry, already took out 20 coins from the silver anniversary collection the MS 68's. They were pretty, but I'm trying to get out all the under grades, and trying to focus on '70's for the newer modern American Eagles. Of course, anything goes for older models.
    No Image for this post, as none of the new coins to be added are here yet. But on the way.
    Happy hoarding
    Capt. Brian
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  16. CaptBrian
    Coin holders beware of fakes.
    To the discerning eye, a fake or 'non-standard' coin holder or slab is readily apparant. So this journal is probably focused on the new collector who has not yet been fooled by the negative elements of our society. They don't always use the top grade as the one in the picture herein. This holder looks VERY much, too much like the NGC holder. NGS is NOT a recognized guarantor of quality, although the coin therein may be real the grade is much suspect. I bought 12 Morgans and they are in grading now at NGC. Will be MOST interesting to see how they come out. By the way,... NONE Of the grades were very low or very high, so it could lead to much capital losses should one believe the grade.
    I have a picture of the reverse if you want to see it let me know by reply.
    Capt. Brian and Helen

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  17. CaptBrian

    A WORLD CLASS COIN

    By CaptBrian,

    Special coin for a special Nation
    This addition to my collection has a special place, not only in my collection, but in my heart. I had owned one of these before, not as rare and valuable as this one, but still most important.
     
     
     
    The first one was similar, but an MS69 and the significance was not lost because of it not being a perfect 70.
     
     
     
    This coin, in my opinion signifies the great loss, sorrow, pain and suffering, which coalesced a fragmented country into one again when the planes destroyed the World Trade Centers Twin Towers.
     
     
     
    This coin is, like America, one of a kind. It is a one population, and MS70. Perfect. I like to think of America as a perfect nation, which we all know, nothing is perfect, but the reaction to the horrible event still gives us all pause to reflect that we are not invulnerable nor hidden between two great seas. We are open to invasion, damage and so on.
     
     
     
    I was in New York City earlier this month, had the honor to go to the New Freedom Tower, and see the momument under construction. As I get older, now 68, more and more memories and images flood my eyes and heart with sorrow and longing for the America I knew as a boy.
     
     
     
    This event brought us together as a nation, but as the years go by, memories and emotions fade. Although folks still say they will never forget, always remember and so forth, I hope the new memorial will keep the heartbeat fresh and strong to remind us the drumbeat must never weaken nor fade for freedom.
     
     
     
    The Twin Towers were the centerpieces of the World Trade Center complex. At 110 stories each they were, for a brief period, the tallest buildings in the world. They attracted an amazing 70,000 visitors and workers daily.
     
     
     
    They could be seen over 45 miles away. I suspect even further, as I can see,on a clear day, Chicagos buildings across Lake Michigan, and that is 60 miles.
     
     
     
    Honoring the lives of those lost will be a 16 acre Memorial and tribute to those lost and a place for hope for the years to come.
     
     
     
    The internet is rife with information and images of the new Memorial. I wish I had space here to include many of the pictures we took while visiting.
     
     
     
    I hope to be there for the grand opening and have a small plan in which I will need help from all corners to implement.
     
     
     
    I acquired a wonderful momemto of that fateful day; A $50 Gold American Eagle, Graded by PCGS as MS70 and given a special label designation as follows: 1998 $50 Gold Eagle. PCGS MS70 9-11-01 WTC Ground Zero Recovery
     
     
     
    This coin was, as others, recovered after the event. There were 73 of these 1998 coins graded 70, but only one with the WTC label and none other. There are two 1991 in 70, but only one in 1998.
     
     
     
    I would like to, somehow include this coin in the memorial event but have no idea on how to do it. I feel it should be there as it is part and parcel of the event. No modern coin has this history, and this rare. Not even the $32,000.00 1987. There are 13 but with no history. This coin is a real piece of history. It needs to be shown at the opening of the memorial. I would consider putting it on loan for a time. Security and costs may prohibit that quest.
     
     
     
    Only 73 of this date are in MS 70, and this is the ONLY WTC coin.
     
     
     
    Any suggestions would be appreciated. In the meantime, enjoy the photo and get in touch with any ideas, either thru this forum, or my email, dragonslayir@aol.com
     
     
     
    All enjoy and NEVER FORGET.
     
     
     
    Capt. Brian Bobbitt

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  18. CaptBrian
    Free money for coins. IRS happy too
    Coin collectors gather round. Hear ye, hear ye, hear ye!. I know, the biggest issue facing us today is how to get money for our collections without stripping our household budget to the bone, leave the Christmas fund alone, the college fund where it can grow and so on and so forth.
    I retired three years or so ago, and have found that two things loom in my mind that I want to do.
    One: To travel and two: to grow my coin collection to the highest attainable level in my power.
    But there was a tremendous conflict. How can I do both without scouring the bottom of the barrel to accomplish same?
    Well, the answer came to me at a tax meeting a few years ago with my tax man as I was planning my retirement.
    I asked him how i could travel to the far flung corners of the world in my quest of travel, and keep looking in odd places for my coins?
    He didn't know the answer so he dusted off his long forgotten volumes of IRS lore and same up with the simple answer.
    The IRS does not look at your hobby the same as a business so you do have to be careful if you are looking for deductions from the expenses involved with your quest for coins. Or any other hobby for that matter IF you decide to make money from your hobby.
    If you plan to make a profit, you should claim your profits as those things is how our country runs its business. You know, making aircraft carriers and paying the IRS agents etc. and so on and so forth. You would not want them to run up a deficit would you? Of course not.
    So, here is how you do it.
    Keep a simple log, ledger, or even like I do, on an electronic medium like quicken. I like that the best as it is easy to make reports and makes my tax paying easy.
    I also keep every scrap of paper. Guess what? At coin shows many do not make receipts available nor do they want to. So, a simple note of what you paid or got paid for an item will suffice to the fellow or lady whom inspects your taxes. By the way, that is called an audit if you did not know.
    Yup, no matter what, you probably do not believe or even know how much you actually spend on collecting coins. Some folks go at it with much greater fervor than others.
    Take me for instance. I make forays to a number of states JUST for the express purpose of finding coins. The quest is a lot of the fun of collecting for me. Call it the hunt if you like.
    Some big game hunters just like the hunt and when they corner the game, they actually lift a loaded rifle or bow and arrow, draw back and get set, ready and let the beast amble off into the woods.
    My lovely wife Helen and I did that in Ranthambore National Wildlife Refuge in India. Went out in the jungle the day before the big hunt, the guide showed us how to hunt a tiger. We listened, watched and went back to the camp. The next day, Helen went first, she did all the right things, got a tigeress in her sights, pulled the trigger and got off a wonderful shot, just right and took the best picture of a stalking tiger you ever saw. It took most of the day.
    The next day, it was my turn, and I did pretty good, but never got close enough to get off a shot. With our camera of course.
    It is the same with looking for coins, for me, it is the hunt. I love probing the back roads of America for that elusive long lost rare coin. You remember, of course, our truncated journey to the Carolinas looking for a Bechtel mint coin earlier this year when Helen got the tummy thing. She is still recovering.
    I will need to check out just how much of the costs of her stay in the hospital and my motels will be deductible against coin profits this year. Perhaps all if I read the letter of the law correctly.
    So, here is the bottom line: You may deduct all expenses in buying a coin. Postage, coin show costs, fuel, motels and so on.
    Now here is the catch, rub, rules and so on. Of course, I am not a tax man, so do not tell the IRS that I said so. Always check with your rule book, it may be different than mine.
    ANY coin related expense is deductible against the profit you made selling it.
    ANY costs not directly related to buying coins will NOT be deducted from your coin profit.
    Let us say you are going to your Aunt Tillie and her Annual Graduation Week for Elephant Training School, 2000 miles away from your house. On the way you hear of a coin show a bit off your intended track. The costs per mile, any extras you have to pay to get to the show or coin, even if you do not make a purchase is deductible against your profits for the year. The main trip to your aunts home is NOT deductible. ONLY the extras you encountered.
    This is why you need to carry a notebook so your deviation can be recorded and deducted.
    Now here is the rub. If your year showed a loss and your quests netted you more expenses looking for coins than you made in profits, too bad pilgrim. You have to eat those losses. You cannot deduct more than you made.
    Its the same with lottery or gambling debts. You can deduct from winnings ONLY. So, no win, no losses accepted by IRS. Sorry, but they make the rules. Don't wanna play, then don't make money.
    You can ONLY deduct as much as you made AND NO MORE! That should be quite simple huh?
    Oh, within my understanding, you cannot move losses forward like you do with stock and other investments. Sorry again. :^(
    Now up til this year, I have simply estimated profits and losses. Last year, due to extreme trading and investing, much more than selling, I know I did not have a net profit for 2014 and said so on the form, and the IRS accepted my estimate.
    This year, my guy says not so fast. This year he wants an itemized list well reported or there may be an investigation by the collection agency we all know so well.
    So, I have been dutifully keeping all receipts and am now in the tedious task of entering them in my quicken ledger. I now wish I was more fastidious during the year as I had no idea how much I would be involved with coins. This got insane.
    At this writing I have NO idea how many coins came and went. It was like a metro station as coins were traded in an out in big numbers.
    Frinstance, this month I bought 400 coins just for resale to get money for my main quest of one of a kinders and raries. Are those words"? I hope so, cause I am leavin them in there. haha
    Which leads me to the main theme of this journal. MONEY!
    Yup, if you want to find a way to get free money for buying coins for your keepsies, then buy and trade other coins with your stash money, college funds etc. Then just use the profits for coins to keep. That is what I am doing.
    ONE THING! Before you go and do a lot of speculating with your hard earned and needed savings, be sure you have a coin sold before you buy it, or be durned sure you got it at a sub retail price. DO NOT speculate with savings. This is NOT what I am saying.
    There are myriad ways nowadays to find out what is a great price and what you can resell an item for. Do not get sucked in because you are on the hunt. Keep the emotion out of it until you find a keeper, then you are using profit money and you are not reselling it so if you over pay a bit, its not so important.



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  19. CaptBrian
    This confirms -at least to me-
    A few days ago, we had a discussion on one of my journals about the 2nd party grading of the CAC, PQ, MAC. Perhaps others to come, which seem to want a piece of the coin grading pie ($s)and not have to go through the processes of the NGCs and PCGSs.
    I said before and I reiterate; We do not need high fives from anyone but the good guys! NGC and PCGS. Certainly not two or three or more of them.
    I just went through a session with CAC and finally gave up. The dealer I went through could not believe my coin did not get the nod from them.
    The dealer even sent a registered letter to CAC which has not been acknowledged as yet and much time has passed. We know they got the letter because it was signed for.
    To further cement my allegations that their system is faulty, and my coin should have gotton their attention (green bean), NGC found it okay to give my coin an award, which in my mind far eclipses any 2ndary labelers thumbs up.
    One picture worth thousand words.
    For me, it puts to rest the question of the secondary labelers. They are no better at grading, than I am at spelling. Pretty good but in no way an authority.
    Thanks, You decide what to do. I for one will NEVER pay more for a coin with a label, and certainly do not want the holder sullied with stickers all over it.
    Capt. Brian
    The Lost Navigator

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  20. CaptBrian
    Counterfeit hides in many guises
    As most of you know, I do a lot of trading and running around the country and world looking for that elusive billion dollar coin. Usually I buy something and am lucky to get my money back not to mention expenses.
    Unfortunately or fortunately, whatever your bent is, I was long ago bitten by the gold bug.
    Starting about 1988 I began collecting silver and gold when I could get them and on the path strewn with potholes and landmines I am, I believe ahead of the game.
    The other day I came across a hoard of 8 coins and was able to buy them for a little over gold price. Some, right at melt value.
    Sometimes I can even get them for 10% or so under gold price. And since the purchase, I watched gold sink further to a 6 year low, where silver is so far under water I have not got a description to metaphor it yet.
    ANYWAY, I bought some nice looking coins and planned to send them off for grading.
    I like to have raw gold coins graded for two reasons: 1) To be sure they are real. and 2) To hopefully find that one that is worth billions and billions.
    I do not know if it is the collector factor, the greed factor, or the ego factor that keeps me on the trail of the holy grail of coins but sometimes it leads me to the brink of the pit.
    For a while there (after buying another counterfeit coin) I swore off buying raw coins forever. (or at least until the next coin show)
    So, this time, a trusted fellow calls me and has 8 coins. So I hop in the trusty time machine and go to his locale. The coins look great. So I bought all 8 for $3200. Two real hopefuls were $1 and $3 goldies that looked GREAT!
    I got a couple of Indians and a couple of Liberty heads,a St. Gaudens $20, and three others rather generic looking libs and Indians.
    Using the grading book used by ANA and well respected, I sat there and inspected the coins as best as I could and determined they were okay and bought the mini-hoard.
    At the first coin show, the picture blurred as two dealers picked out 4 of the 8 to be counterfeit or not real.
    Then I marked the flips as questionable and again, let two other dealers go over them and they okayed some and culled some. No real agreement. One dealer said, not enough detail on this one and tossed it aside. Another and another came by and after the show I stopped at several coin shops and again, no agreement on good or bad coins. Some dealers offered to buy them at nice profits....
    Well, I did not want them to be calling me or the cops for selling bad stuff, so I kept them to let NGC figure it out.
    Well, today the box came back. (I knew results as they were posted to me well before receipt of the coins. You know the drill.
    SO... look at the picture, and you see the pain..
    One of then seven submitted was real, the rest were marked not genuine. GASP!
    One other, the St. G was real and sold for $1100.00. This leaves me 6 to hopefully break even. The one that did grade was a nice coin worth about $950 or so, the 1890 $10 Liberty, so not all was lost. I can make up about $200 to $500 depending on whether I sell it wholesale to a dealer, or retail to a coin buff.
    Well, this is the reason I refuse to pay much over melt value. I can ascertain that they are gold, and the content thereof so if the worse happens, as it did this time, I can at least recover my costs minus the dice roll for the $30 each for grading and mail.
    Oh well. I am going to try to sell these at shows this month to bail out my friend who also got snared when he bought these, and they will be sold with a copy of the report from NGC and the guarantee that the gold content is what it is.
    Failing that, I will take them back to where I got them, and get a refund.
    So, here is what you need to do when purchasing raw coins:
    1) Weigh coins and be sure of proper weight. That will insure at LEAST it is gold and you can get melt anytime.
    2) Be sure you know your seller and that he will take them back if found to be bogus. This means, you and your supplier must trust each other. There are many devious ways to cheat.
    3) Take a picture with a digital camera so that coins returned as bogus can be identified without question.
    4) Know your buyer, and guarantee him that you will repurchase them within 30 days for any reason, or anytime if found to be counterfeit. Be sure you have a digital picture so buyer cannot replace your good coin with a bad one similar in grade.
    There are so many counterfeit coins, if you do any kind of searching at all, you WILL come across them. With proper precautions, you can save your reputation, and your wallet.
    I could write volumes about this subject, but suffice for now to remind you all to be vigilant to your purchases and sales.
    Happy searching
    Brian

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  21. CaptBrian
    Am I a product of a good home, trusting or just plain stupid?
    Have any of you folks been 'taken' by your trusted coin dealer? What did you do? What can someone do.I sure would like some feedback here. Some of my collection has been obained, I think, from con men who scammed me into thinking certain coins were worth much more than they were.
    Thanks:
    Capt. Brian
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  22. CaptBrian

    COIN COLLEGE

    By CaptBrian,

    Go for the gold (and silver)
    COIN COLLEGE.
    TANGIBLE, DIVERSIFIED, PROTECTION
    GO FOR THE GOLD (& SILVER*)
    With all the contrasting investments available, how does one settle on a particular component of available choices? Some of the choices may be physical bullion, being that coins, bars or even a paper investment. There are also many paper investments such as ETF's, stock in mining companies, futures (like a farmer or speculator) and so on. Rare coins, both raw and more. There are many benefits of precious metal for retirement and fun. The thing to do is to determining lastly, the best time to get happily involved.
    Beginning gold collectors should look first to gold bullion - especially gold bullion coins minted by a recognized national mint. Gold American Eagles are the #1 most popular gold bullion coins in the world.
    The 22 Karat Gold American Eagles sell at the prevailing price of gold bullion plus small manufacturing and distribution costs.
    The next most popular gold bullion coins are produced by: Canada (24K Maple Leaf ), Austria (24K Philharmonic), and South Africa (22K Krugerrand. There are other countries producing similar coins but with a lot of counterfeiting going on globally, stick to the known coins for now. Once you settle on a dealer or source of your investments, then his integrity should be enough.
    American Eagles are easy to buy and sell at most coin and precious metals dealers and are welcome in major investment markets worldwide. Many buyers demand the high degree of liquidity and lower dealer buy-sell spreads that American Eagles offer.
    COMPARING YOUR PHYSICAL GOLD OPTIONS
    Jewelry is the customary Old Worlds medium for a family's primary savings. However, jewelry is seldom pure ( 24karat) gold, usually starting with 14 karat. Bullion bars & coins are internationally recognized forms of pure gold or near pure (22 karat) gold in concentrated form. The bullion dealer or national mint is your guarantee of authenticity. The disadvantage is little possibility of gains or losses much greater than bullion prices unless a low mintage bullion coin becomes popular later and developed a collector premium.
    Numismatic coins are the concentrated forms of wealth - so that more value can be saved in smaller space. Over time, quality numismatic coins generally grow faster than bullion in price. According to a recent 30 year study by Penn State economics professor Raymond Lombra. A basket of 3000 rare coins called
    the PCGS 3000 index, far outperformed gold bullion during the 1970 to 2013 time frame. Rare Coins play a major role in diversication of ones gold collection.
    Comparing Your PAPER GOLD OPTIONS Let's start with:
    Futures Contracts are traded on the commodity exchange (COMEX)(NYMEX) for about five hours each business day. The gold contract is for 100 troy ounces, quoted in dollars. Exchange Traded Funds (ETF) contain an amount of bullion equal to the shifts in demand for fund shares. Shares trade at one-tenth the price of bullion ( i.e. $160 per share if gold is at $1,600). the transactions are quick and secure, but you hold no actual gold, Make sure ETF actually has the Physical Gold. Gold Shares trade like any other stock, based on investment demand vs. the supply of shares. With specific gold shares, investors must examine the management and deposits with an eye toward fraud or overstatement, as happened with Bre-X shares. Some mining companies hedge their gold, defeating the purpose of protecting from golds rise. In general, gold mines rise when gold bullion rises, since gold mining leverages gains in gold price, but that is not always the case. When gold rose rapidly in 2008, gold shares did not follow, declining 70% in six months. In recent years, gold shares have continued to decline, even though gold has risen for 12 straight years.
    In another column, we will discuss, 'How to find a coin dealer you can trust'.
    Dealers or Financial competitors who bad mouth the coin market or other dealers typically have many deficiencies themselves. When bad mouthing is present say what they say in Missouri "show me" to both competitors for your business. Give both dealers a chance to provide a response and proof of memberships,awards, accreditations and service. In most cases, the "bad mouthing" dealers or financial competitors are seriously deficient in credibility or their accusations are seriously mis-characterized, outdated orblatantly false.
    *The text would also apply to silver coins. FYI (Au is the symbol for Gold and Ag is for silver) PM is the short form for Precious Metals
    In my next journal, I will go over looking at the economy and U.S.Dollar values looking at things like real inflation and how it drives or hurts the precious metal price, the base of our coin investments and collection values. Stay tuned.
    Capt. Brian

  23. CaptBrian
    To be or not to be a grade? That is the question
    I have recently acquired the above coin, and it is a stunning example. First of all, it is nearly 2.5 oz. of Au, (boy do I love klinking gold coins. I do not clink this one). It is rated by PCGS as GEM quality, so I suppose it is a graded coin. But has no registration number, ergo I can not put it in my registry. As far as I am concerned, if I can not add it to the registry, it is ONLY a collectible or an investment. Where would you put this coin? On the table in the living room, or in the vault? Would you keep this one of 500 for appreation or let it go at the first profit? This fits nowhere in my collection and although it is beautiful, my quest is to grow my graded collection, not just add bullion to my treasure chest. It came with full paperwork and an eyefull to be sure it is with its frame, COA, box and sleeve. Any owner would be proud of its presentation. Better keep the boxes nice if you want to display it.
    My picture of it is not the greatest, but there it is. What do you think fellow collectors, investment or collection material?
    Capt. Brian

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  24. CaptBrian
    GONNA BE A LONG TIME TIL I ADD ANOTHER COIN
    Well, they are all in the pot. About 14 of them were without slots, so I will have to get on my knees and beg Amy to get me some slots and new sets. I know they are backed up with requests, as mentioned before but I have a bunch of orphans that want to join the party.
    Enjoy looking. I will clean up descriptions and pictures as time permits. (this is like painting the Golden Gate, never finnished.)
    Happy coining
    Capt. Brian and Helen
    The Lost Navigator
    P.S. All coins with pictures now, and, on to fixing history, and fun data for this collection, now THATs gonna take a while.
    P.P.S. All coins with no slots are in signature(now CUSTOM SETS) sets section

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  25. CaptBrian
    Well, maybe not so old, but certainly gold.
    Today two boxes of stuff arrived and I am just now opening it. I can only put one picture in here (because I do not know how to add in several) and I'm like a kid at Christmas.
    Here is the Low Down: 44 coins in, 24 coins out, and a bunch of bank wires. Had to stash all the stuff at banks in the Carolinas and Texas until I got home.
    A 4 coin set of Edmund C Moy 38th Director of the U.S. Mint 2002 W PR70DCAM Gold Eagles, (4 coins), PCGS.
    Two 2014 Eagles, a G$50 MS70, and $25 MS70 NGC.
    1988 G$25 MS70, 1996 G$25 MS70 and 2001 G$25 PF70 ULTRA CAM.
    1988 -2003 $10 GAE PF70
    1996-W G$25 PCGS PR70DCAM EAGLE
    1993-P 4 COIN SET PCGS PR69DCAM SET U.S. MINT DIRECTOR SIGNATURE SERIES PHILIP DIEHL.
    2012 W EAGLE G425 PF70 ULTRA CAMEO
    2012 W EAGLE G$10 EARLY RELEASES PF70 ULTRA CAMEO
    2012 W EAGLE G$25 PF70 ULTRA CAMEO
    2012 W EAGLE 4 COIN SET G$50, 25 10 AND $5 PF70 ULTRA CAMEO
    " " " " " " " " " " " " " " NOT MATCHING...
    1987 $25 GAE PF 70 BUT!!! IT IS LISTED ON LABEL AS 1997. AND IT IS THE ROMAN NUMERAL COIN SO NICE VALUE. HARD TO FIGURE PRICE.
    1996 $25 GAE PF70
    1997 " " (2)
    2001 " "
    1996 $5 GAE MS70
    1999 $5 GAE PF70 ULTRA CAMEO
    1990 $50 GAE PF70
    2000 $5 GAE PF70
    2001 GAE SET MS 70
    These coins are the result of going to myriad coin shows, I won't say hundreds of pawn shops and coin stores, but a lot. I like to hit one city, use my phone to find a list of existing coin dealers and shops. Also do the same thing for coin shows. I have an app which shows local coin shows. Just put in the zip code and it searches in a circle of miles input by me.
    The big thing is to call before you head out. Last trip, forgetting the rule, I drove via the GPS directions and got to a shop and spend some time there.
    When I finished, out in the parking lot asked my phone again, and off I went to a location that had closed up just days before. Then I asked again, and drove to the third location and unreal, it was in the same shopping center of the first one.
    Can you imagine the chances? Well, after running around the truck 20 times as a penalty for not following my own rules, the day was over and off we went to the motel for the night.
    Once in Texas, the GPS system I was using, WAZE, took me in a big 12 mile circle. Rule #2, look at the route your GPS is suggesting.
    Anyway, we are having a ball as fuel prices drop it makes it easier.
    Another bit of advice. If you are going to go hunt as we have done, make a map of your relatives so you can avoid motel bills when possible. Be sure to ask relatives for $50 so you can get home and they won't expect you to pay for the dinner they suggested we go celebrate our meeting after such a long time.
    I hope you all are finding your stuff as you search.
    This last trip was a real nightmare as Helen was sick, but she is almost recovered now. About 90%. She will be okay for the cruise in a few days.
    HAVE FUN
    Capt. Brian

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