Should I bid, or does it have too many problems?

[pendragon1998]

I really, really like the sharp strike, but there are problems with this coin: little nicks, a small, reverse rim ding, and a bit of spotting. Should I bid or pass?

 

Obverse:

 

Reverse:

[James_OldeTowne]

This coin has far too many problems. It's only AU+ to begin with, but then it has the problems you mentioned, plus what appears to be surface corrosion. And the strike is only a little above average for an 1899! To top it all off, it looks slightly cleaned to me. I think it's a $30 wholesale, $50 retail coin - and a slow mover at that.

 

Please forgive the spam, but here's what you can get for about 30 bucks more:

 

 

Exceptional way above-average strike, MS-64 obverse, and reverse with very shallow surface roughness probably caused by corrosion that's no worse than the coin you imaged.

 

James

[physics-fan3.14]

Personally, I don't like it. The marks on the neck are pretty severe, and my gut reaction was that it was cleaned. I wasn't sure until I saw James say the same thing. I say don't bid on a coin with problems if you can find a nice one.

[CTcollector]

I think you already got some good advice on this - Like James said, PASS and hold out for something a little better !

[pendragon1998]

I agree with you all. I am also thinking it was cleaned after taking a second look. The cleaning wasn't as obvious in the smaller photos on eBay, and I only had a moment to review and post these larger ones I was sent this morning. I had already halfway decided not to bid, but now I'm sure of my choice.

 

As for the coin being AU, I was aware of that, and in fact I've decided to collect these nickels in that grade. I don't think I could afford the entire set in mid-MS grade at this point in my financial life, so I'm going to have a go at assembling a complete set of nice AU coins. If I can pick up nice coins in MS condition that are within my budget, I'll probably do so. I'm just beginning to look around and do my research prior to beginning the set, so I appreciate any advice I can get.

 

James, I do like the obverse on that coin of yours, but I'm afraid the reverse corrosion and rim ding would keep me away from the coin - the rim ding on the one I mentioned contributed 50% of my doubt as to bidding on it in the first place. How common are rim dings on this series?

[EZ_E]

I'd certainly pass. A collector should never start settling for problem coins regardless the grade because the time will certainly come when the you'll regret it.

[RGT]

James, I do like the obverse on that coin of yours, but I'm afraid the reverse corrosion and rim ding would keep me away from the coin - the rim ding on the one I mentioned contributed 50% of my doubt as to bidding on it in the first place. How common are rim dings on this series?

 

That looks more like a rim cud than a ding to me, on James' coin. I can't really tell about corrosion from the pic, but I would trust James on the description.

[pendragon1998]

What's the difference between rim cud and a rim ding?

[spiny]

A cud is from a piece of the die being broken off, so it leaves a raised area the same shape as the missing piece on the coins it strikes.

[pendragon1998]

Thanks, Spiny. I dunno about that coin, though - does that spot look raised to you? I can't really tell. I'm loving this thread though - it's becoming a learning experience.

[James_OldeTowne]

((( How common are rim dings on this series? )))

 

Rim dings are not common on V-nickels (in BU), so if you find them bothersome, then definitely pass no matter what. Nickel is some pretty tough stuff, and to pick up dings or major bagmarks usually means the coin was abused to some extent.

 

As others mentioned, my coin does indeed have a cud, and for that matter, so does the one you imaged. A cud is mint-made and not damage, unlike a rim-ding. Most collectors find that a rim cud adds character and interest to a coin, but it's purely a matter of preference. These rim-cuds are fairly common on V-nickels, because the hardness of the metal planchets inflicted a lot of punishments on the dies, and where the dies are weakest - at the edges - is where they were most likely to pick up damage.

 

I have a friend who is doing the set in AU, and I can state with certainty that it is just as difficult to assemble a complete set in AU as MS-63. The tough coins just aren't out there in EF-40 and above. In fact, I'd say that an AU 1912-S or 1885 is RARER than an MS-6X example.

 

James