1986-2006 SILVER EAGLE NGC PF70'S NEWBIE QUESTIONS

[507BHP-migration]

Hello, everyone!

 

I'm a newbie to this hobby and been reading as much as I can find about Silver Eagle series. I love the way it looks and somehow got really motivated to start off my new hobby by collecting 1986-2006 Silver Eagle NGC PF70 Series (including both P & W version of 1995 NGC PF70's). I don't expect to collect all of them in short time. I understood (by reviewing helpful advice posted here for newbies) well that I must take time and learn a lot before start purchasing things off eBay. Anyhow, my goal is to collect the whole set if possible. I do have a few questions for wise elders who are experienced in Silver Eagle. I would really appreciate it if you could kindly share your thoughts.

 

Q1. Assuming money is not an issue (yet you won't want to pay more than reasonable market price) & all the coins in the series are available in one place, what would be fair price for the whole lot of these coins?

 

Q2. How much would be fair price for 1995 W Silver Eagle NGC PF70 in particular?

 

Q3. How much would be fair price for 1993 & 1994 P Silver Eagle NGC PF70's each?

 

Q4. What is the difference between P Silver, W Silver, & S Silver?

 

Q5. I would love to own Silver Eagle Set regardless of its value as investment. However, it would be nice if it makes good candidate for long term sound investment. Would holding the above described set make good long term (+10 Years) investment opportunity...if I can somehow obtain all of 22 coins in the series?

 

Q6. Would you share any advice particularly on Silver Eagle Series?

 

I understand these are all very subjective questions that doesn't have correct answers. I also understand the fair market price can vary all the time. I would be happy if I can get very broad general idea that I can use as a reference. I am aware of roughly how much each of these coins are being traded on eBay and some of the series are unavailble for purchase time to time.

 

Thanks again in advance for any help or advice you can provide to make me a wiser coin collector.

 

[Stanley]

I have multiple registry sets of the ASE Proof and MS, I can speak with some experience.

 

 

1. Purchase only NGC or PCGS specimens with a full return policy and always ask are they spot or haze free before you buy.

2. Purchase a whole set already assembled will save you some bucks.

3. Store them in a safe and secure environment. I have mine in intercept shield boxes.

4. I would recommend setting your sights on PROOF 69 & MS69 whole sets and you can add the more recent issues in PR70 & MS70 which are not as expensive as the earlier issues. You will notice there is little or no difference in the 2 grades even under magnification with exception of some being more lustrous and the proofs a little darker. You can save yourself a lot of money doing it this way versus purchasing each individually. And if this plan is satisfying, you stand to save thousands of dollars that you could spend on other collectables.

5. I wouldn’t advise you to put these sets together solely for the investment, however I would say do it for the fun of collecting and good luck !

[paperchaser-migration]

If your budget allows then by all means purchase the MS70 or PF70. However, as Spider comments, nothing wrong with the MS and PF 68 or 69. Investment? maybe but BE CAREFUL and SHOP around. eBay can get expensive. Try the U.S. Mint, get on their mailing/shopping list and then stay on it and buy direct from them for now and the future. Past dates -- visit lots of shows and dealers and SHOP around. Remember -- if it sounds too good to be true it probably isn't true and you'll LOSE. Oh, did I mention that you might SHOP around and look at lots of these before you buy? Take your time, remember it's YOUR money you spend and you probably work pretty hard for it.

Enjoy and welcome aboard. After almost 5 decades I continue to think it's a really great hobby, with some really great people. A few soreheads and scumbags but by and large -- a super group of folks.

[507BHP-migration]

Thanks for your helpful insights...much appreciated.

Fortunately, our financial situation allows me to pursue collecting PF70 Series.

While I understand the visual side of 69 and 70 would be almost identical to naked eyes, I like the fact that NGC PF70 series would be much more exclusive and harder to get. After all, isn't that a part of idea of collecting rare coins? As I am not really interested in collecting older coins, this is one way to keep my collection distinguished from others. I hope I'm not being too stupid thinking this way...or am I?

 

I would still kindly ask for a bit more specific answers to questions posted above...especially regarding Q1-Q4.

 

One more question regarding eBay purchase before leaving to work. I've been reviewing NGC Census Data when looking into eBay ads for Silver Eagles. When reviewing eBay ads, I review the following points very carefully.

 

-Seller Feedback and items sold

-Return Policy

-Full Description of the product and photo

-Price compared to other selle's (same) item & Census data

 

Is i safe to buy if the item sold on eBay was from reputable eBay seller who has good return policy and everything is described to be perfect shape and price was in line with other items on eBay and Census data? Or is there anything else I should be aware of that I didn't mention here?

 

Thanks again for your help!

[cladking]

Let us know what that PR-70 '95-W ends up costing you. It's possible you'll find one at a reasonable price but I'd guess this is a very high demand, very low pop coin. It could get pricey.

[507BHP-migration]

Thank you. I will keep you posted. What do you consider as "Reasonable Price" for this coin?

 

Cheers!

[Stanley]

I’m not saying these prices are what I would pay, but here they are.

 

Do not forget the key “2000 millennium” NGC only has graded 14 in MS70. Numismedia shows 880.00 price which is way off. I would say $3500.00 or more if you could find one.

 

1995 W PFUC70 NGC population 64 Numismedia price $15,630.00

 

W = West Point

P = Philadelphia Mint

S = San Francisco

[EZ_E]

Of course, you should collect what you like and what you can afford.

 

However, I personally agree with many other collectors that the price of the coin's value should not be predominantly set by the plastic. Most of the proofs come near pristine in their original gov't packaging which are worth $30-$100 apiece. Why, then, because of some third party grading service's opinion that this is somehow a completely flawless and perfect piece, is the coin now worth hundreds or thousands of times its initial price. By definition, entropy precludes the possibility of anything being perfect in this physial universe. So, that means you will be paying for one's mere opinion which is certainly not a definite thing. Besides, even if a "perfect" coin presently appears so today does not mean that it shall remain so tomorrow. It just seems to me that "created" market with no guarantees of future investment potential. As one poster on these boards is fond of saying, what would this coin be worth if cracked out of the holder? 5%? 10%? In his opinion, the coin should still be worth at least 75% of the coin's value outside of the holder.

[paperchaser-migration]

You might consider an issue at a time purchase of the Greysheet, the Coin Dealer Newsletter. You can purchase online for $3.99 for current issue or other combinations. This would give you a "starting" place for price comparisons. Go to ( www.greysheet.com ) and browse around. Remember, it's a 'willing buyer and a willing seller'. Lots of sellers and since you're the buyer, CHECK THEM OUT!

Wishing you well in your pursuit of the perfect coins, should prove to be an interesting and exciting adventure.

[MunkyMan95]

I was looking on eBay earlier, and here's an auction for the whole set, minus the 1995-W PF 70 Eagle Set NGC

[pendragon1998]

Perhaps I'm just not as hard core as some here, but I really don't see the point in slabbing a proof eagle that's already in a mint-sealed case. Are modern proofs in their mint cases in danger of tarnishing, or is it simply to add value to the coin by virtue of it's being encased in expensive plastic?

 

What would a fair price be for 1995-P and 1996-P proof eagles in the original mint packaging?

[Jeff S]

A fair price would be:

170$ for the 1995P

and 60$ for the 1996P

[Stanley]

I was looking on eBay earlier, and here's an auction for the whole set, minus the 1995-W PF 70 Eagle Set NGC

 

 

Some things you need to consider

 

Seller offers no guarantee

No legible images

No mention of spot or haze free

Seller has never sold any thing, he has only made purchases for which you can not verify these aren’t only small ticket items.

Money Order or Cashiers Check for payment…PayPal nor ebay could help you recover that kind of money

Does he live close to you? Close enough to personally pick up and inspect before you fork over the cash?

 

Buyer Beware!

[zrlevin]

I was looking on eBay earlier, and here's an auction for the whole set, minus the 1995-W PF 70 Eagle Set NGC

 

 

Some things you need to consider

 

Seller offers no guarantee

No legible images

No mention of spot or haze free

Seller has never sold any thing, he has only made purchases for which you can not verify these aren’t only small ticket items.

Money Order or Cashiers Check for payment…PayPal nor ebay could help you recover that kind of money

Does he live close to you? Close enough to personally pick up and inspect before you fork over the cash?

 

Buyer Beware!

 

I agree, I'd pass that up.

[507BHP-migration]

I agree fully as well. I won't buy from that seller.

However, assuming he didn't have all that short comings and all conditions were in good standing (seller's been selling coins for long time and have great & related feedback ratings, money back guarantee, clearly mention of perfect condition of no haze and spotting, PayPal payment accepted, accept local pick ups and live close by and etc), is the buy now price acceptable or reasonably within range of fair market price? Thank you.

[smullen]

Q4. What is the difference between P Silver, W Silver, & S Silver?

 

 

 

I've Always wondered about the ""W''" mint marked ones??? What is that? I thought I'd read westpoint, but am not sure on that...

 

So is there anything different about the "W" than the S or P?

 

I'm working on a set too...

[jtryka]

The proofs from 1986-92 were all minted in San Francisco (i.e. S-mintmark), from 1993-99 the proofs were all minted in Philadelphia (P-mintmark), the exception being the 1995-W proof which was included in a 10th anniversary set of gold and silver eagles, and thus has become the key date in the series. All the proofs from 2000-05 were minted in West Point (W-mintmark). Hope this helps!

[Bruceswar]

W, S, and P are mint marks. Westpoint, San Fransisco, and Philadelphia. Look at the prices on a 1995 W coin, you may be shocked. They all have the same design

[troy-migration]

I thought the 2000 proof was a "P" mintmark and not a "W" as stated above?

[MunkyMan95]

someone was selling the '95-W on ebay (i don't know if it's still up) for about 15 grand.

[Bruceswar]

15 grand would be high... it should be more like $7500.00 for one

[Allan Ong]

isn't the 95-W available only out of a special proof set?

[Bruceswar]

I think you are correct. but since the value is so high many have been broken out

[Beijim]

I thought the 2000 proof was a "P" mintmark and not a "W" as stated above?

Correct. The 2001 was the first proof SAE to bear the "W" mint mark, other than the 1995-W special issue.

 

Beijim