How would YOU invest in coins?

[GAB]

I have been a collector of coins for over 40 years. After the tech "bubble" in 2000, I decided to try investing in coins - not only because I enjoy the hobby, but because there was really nowhere else to go with money. Living in Idaho, my options were fairly limited, so the logical place to start was eBay. I started with $20 gold Liberties and Saints. I soon figured out that I had to start "limiting" my interests, as my pockets quickly emptied !!!

It was then that I discovered that to be a collector/investor, one also had to become a dealer. In the past 5 years, I have learned a lot - usually the hard(expensive) way - about the "business". During this time I have bought and sold hundreds, maybe thousands of coins, either on eBay or through the many dealers that just seemed to find me. My collection has at times included gold - MS and proof, silver - mostly proofs, datesets, type sets etc. I have been to a few coin shows, and done some trading at a couple of them - but for the most part, my dealings have been limited to:

1) eBay - for the less expensive coins

2) the local coin shop - for info, purchases sales and trades.

3) Big time dealers - Heritage, Superior, DLRC etc. for more exotic coins.

 

The problem is - where does one settle??

 

There is always temptation to keep "upgrading" - which in and of itself is scary - at best!

I am sure that this "HOT" market will come to a head eventually, and self destruct just like it did in the 80's - but who knows when that will be - especially the way other things are looking "out there"?

 

Sorry about the "book" - but I think there are probably millions of "newbies" out there that have (or will have) the same questions/problems ??

thx, GAB

[michael]

coins are not an investment

 

coins are a hobby for fun and you got to buy coins only with discretionary funds

 

yes i am sure if you choose wisely there might be some financial rewards but this is not why you buy coins

 

if so then let the buyer beware

 

also you need to be ableto look at a coin and know its true worth and resale value or where you can sell it now for how much??

 

then you are able to buy coins

 

a coin also needs to stand on its own merits

 

if you ever see a coin in a slabbed holder with a grading tag you need to ask yourself

 

am i comfoprtable in breaking this coin out of the holder and keeping it raw?

 

if you are uncomfortable with this thought then this coin is not for you

 

and if you do buy it then let the buyer beware

[cpm9ball]

Greg, welcome to the boards. You should listen to Michael. He is a wise man. Personally, I collect what I like if I can afford it, and I don't give any consideration to what the value might be next week or 5, 10, 20 years down the road. This hobby, unlike a business, should give you pleasure not headaches.

 

Chris

[James_OldeTowne]

I'm sorry to have to say this, but for folks of average means, the people who usually do worst in coins are the ones who approach it from the get-go as an "investment", rather than as a hobby. When you are trying to make a quick buck, or even a not-so-quick buck as your primary motivation, then the temptation to buy on impulse is too much to combat, and you will end up with a bunch of coins that are below average, and an overall collection that is really just an assemblage of disconnected coins.

 

The folks who have done the best, and that includes those of average, ordinary financial means, are the ones who have worked at a collection for a number of years, and end up with a comprehensive, organized collection - which is after all what other collectors are looking for.

 

As the old cliche goes, time is money. So what do you think will happen if you wisely invest your time in your collection?

 

James

[IGWT]

Hi & welcome, GAB.

 

How would YOU invest in coins?

 

I wouldn't. I acquire coins to assemble a collection in which I have a deep interest, not to invest in a whacky market that I'll never understand fully. Listen to Michael, Chris, and James.

[jtryka]

Welcome GAB!

 

There have been lots of wise statements so far, and I agree with them that coins should primarily be a hobby and if you happen to make a few bucks along the way so much the better. However, focusing on the profit first will be the path of ruin for most.

 

That said, there is nothing wrong with doing a little trading here and there to support your hobby. I remember when I was just getting into collecting Saints back in 2000 and 2001, the market was really quite weak, which for me was good! Not only could I buy lots of nice coins for low prices (i.e. less than 75% of current melt), I also found a niche in buying larger lots from Heritage and other larger dealers and selling them on eBay. I only dealt in certified coins, mostly double eagles, and often I would buy common date libs in MS-60 to MS-62 and common date Saints in MS-63 to MS-64 for between $350 and $450 each, then sell them on eBay for a profit of $50 to $150 per coin. I then just plowed those profits back into my personal collection, keeping the coins I thought were the nicest and selling the duplicates. Although this method is definitely not for everyone, it had two main benefits to me, first I make a little extra cash to fund my collection in its early stages, and more importantly I got to see loads of Saints in a variety of grades from the major services which helped me immensely in learning how to grade as well as the peculiarities of the many issues. This may or may not work in other areas of the hobby, but I think I just got lucky being in the right place at the right time. Even if the market is doing poorly, people still seem to want to own large gold coins, whether for collecting, type sets or just bullion. I somehow doubt the same thing would be true of really undervalued segments like 19th century proofs or 2-cent pieces. Even so, my adventure into "dealing" wasn't done for profit or investment but to subsidize my collection. And as far as my collection goes, I would be just as pleased to own those coins if gold was still $275 and common date Saints were still $400 in MS-63!

[michael]

 

I'm sorry to have to say this, but for folks of average means, the people who usually do worst in coins are the ones who approach it from the get-go as an "investment", rather than as a hobby. When you are trying to make a quick buck, or even a not-so-quick buck as your primary motivation, then the temptation to buy on impulse is too much to combat, and you will end up with a bunch of coins that are below average, and an overall collection that is really just an assemblage of disconnected coins.

 

The folks who have done the best, and that includes those of average, ordinary financial means, are the ones who have worked at a collection for a number of years, and end up with a comprehensive, organized collection - which is after all what other collectors are looking for.

 

As the old cliche goes, time is money. So what do you think will happen if you wisely invest your time in your collection?

 

James

 

 

 

There have been lots of wise statements so far, and I agree with them that coins should primarily be a hobby and if you happen to make a few bucks along the way so much the better. However, focusing on the profit first will be the path of ruin for most.

 

That said, there is nothing wrong with doing a little trading here and there to support your hobby. I remember when I was just getting into collecting Saints back in 2000 and 2001, the market was really quite weak, which for me was good! Not only could I buy lots of nice coins for low prices (i.e. less than 75% of current melt), I also found a niche in buying larger lots from Heritage and other larger dealers and selling them on eBay. I only dealt in certified coins, mostly double eagles, and often I would buy common date libs in MS-60 to MS-62 and common date Saints in MS-63 to MS-64 for between $350 and $450 each, then sell them on eBay for a profit of $50 to $150 per coin. I then just plowed those profits back into my personal collection, keeping the coins I thought were the nicest and selling the duplicates. Although this method is definitely not for everyone, it had two main benefits to me, first I make a little extra cash to fund my collection in its early stages, and more importantly I got to see loads of Saints in a variety of grades from the major services which helped me immensely in learning how to grade as well as the peculiarities of the many issues. This may or may not work in other areas of the hobby, but I think I just got lucky being in the right place at the right time. Even if the market is doing poorly, people still seem to want to own large gold coins, whether for collecting, type sets or just bullion. I somehow doubt the same thing would be true of really undervalued segments like 19th century proofs or 2-cent pieces. Even so, my adventure into "dealing" wasn't done for profit or investment but to subsidize my collection. And as far as my collection goes, I would be just as pleased to own those coins if gold was still $275 and common date Saints were still $400 in MS-63!

 

 

[GAB]

Well, I guess I am a little surprised at some of the responses, but not really.

(Thus the little "getting dumped on " smiley face at the end of my post!)

 

I agree whole heartedly with the collectors perspective that has been protrayed, but like it or not, things have changed (as discussed in other threads) with the advent of on-line coin availabilty - be it eBay or other FUN, ANA etc. big-time auctions. The fact is that a collector can do years worth of research in days now, and see thousands of coins in a relatively short time. As a collector/investor, he(she) still has decisions to make.

I personally really like and enjoy way more coins than I could ever afford - no matter how long and hard I worked at it. I would say that this probably applies to 99% of all coin collectors, whether they have $10 or $10 Million !! Furthermore, I would not necessarily call COIN money discretionary, as that title is pretty much reserved to what is in my wallet when I go to Las Vegas!! (not very often, since with wife and kids - I have very little money of this type !!) Therefore in my opinion, ANYONE who has ever bought a coin and then sold it - for whatever reason - is an investor. People collect for lots of reasons, but I doubt anyone likes the feeling of buying a coin that they like for X dollars - then seeing the same coin (maybe even nicer) go for half the price a week later.

 

Please, don't get me wrong, as I said, I have been collecting coins for over 40 years. I still have coins that I got from/with my grandmother that I will never sell. Someday however, someone will sell them (as part of my estate probably) and they will undoubtedly wonder why in the world I drug them around with me for so long!

 

All that being said, maybe I need to rephrase the original question. I will arbitrarily pick a number - say $20,000.00 (assume you won it in the lottery!!)

Now then - How would you invest (spend, collect, whatever) this $20K in coins ?

thx, GAB

[GAB]

I don't know why my PS did not show up in my last message, so here it is.

PS - attached is the image of my mystery "investment" of modern coinage.

What is with these? Why are people willing to pay so much for them? They are not rare, and they look just like all the other dates?

[jtryka]

Well, that is a different question entirely. For me, I would probably first buy a nice 1925-S Saint in high AU grade, followed by a 1924-S in MS-63. If I had any money left over after that, I would buy some nice AU-MS60 Type 2 Liberty double eagles.

[TomB]

I often tell folks, and I have written on my web site, the phrase-

Buy what you like with money you can afford to lose.

As has been mentioned, coins are not the best financial instrument. For my collection I buy a combination of raw value and eye appeal.

[jom]

Well, that is a different question entirely. For me, I would probably first buy a nice 1925-S Saint in high AU grade, followed by a 1924-S in MS-63. If I had any money left over after that, I would buy some nice AU-MS60 Type 2 Liberty double eagles.

 

That is exactly what I'd do essentially. I'd go get myself either a 1909-O half eagle or a 1920-S eagle....either in high AU or whatever. It's much more likely I'd get the 20-S since I don't believe I've ever seen a 09-O I actually liked and it will probably take a good year just to find the 20-S.

 

In either case I don't think you'd actually call it "investing"...

 

jom

[IGWT]

All that being said, maybe I need to rephrase the original question. I will arbitrarily pick a number - say $20,000.00 (assume you won it in the lottery!!)

Now then - How would you invest (spend, collect, whatever) this $20K in coins ?

 

I'd be tempted to use that amount of $ to move into another area: Flying Eagle 1c.

[michael]

for me

 

i would buy

some undervalued opportunity coins

that have tremendous eye appeal

and some extra special qualities about them

pcgs/ngc

type coins pre 1915

mix or match as per the below

and all high end for the grade

 

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

a super high end ms64 1858 flyer small letters or large letters fullstrike this is really important the full strike with original orange tan surfaces and no planchet striations or spots stains i would say cost you approx. 1900.00

 

a nicely toned great lustre ms 64 isabella quarter i would estimate this coin to be in the 1450.00 range

 

a really choice proof no motto seated dollar in cameo that is ever so lightly toned proof 63 but with the look of a higher grade and strongly cameoed any civil war date 1861-65

i would estimate this coin would cost you around 4500 but i am talking a killer high end greatly cameoed example with wonderful eye appeal

 

a one year type coin the 1859 indian head cent super high end ms64 and also silvery with a light tannish hue never dipped and no spots stains or striated streaky surfaces

i would say approx 1350+

 

1909 matte proof lincoln cent proof 66 full red pcgs only roman finish proof no spots stains even color and full red i wouls say this will cost you 3500 if you can find one which would be really hard

 

rb proof 65 lincoln cent matte proof 1909 wildly colored and again no spots stains and even coloration approx. 1500

 

wildly toned proof 66 67 three cent nick 1880's i would think if you can find one approx 2000

 

type two three cent silver gem ms 65 great lustre strike and toning killer toning i would say cost you 5000 but killer toned with monster lustre most likely an 1858

 

monster killer deep mirrors and monster toned cameo proof 67 lib nick approx 3500

 

1875-s gem ms twenty cent piece killer toned original and also fully struck stars on the obverse approx 5300

 

very choice close to gem ms 64 original toned and great l;ustre and above average strike large pre 1828 capped bust dime open collar strike a slightly better date would be nice say the 1825 5500 if you can find one

 

gem proof 1862 wildly toned proof 65 dime 3500 if you can find one pcgs only as most all of the ngc coins are dark

 

any monster toned full strike philly mint dime ms 67 from the 1880's 5000.00 approx

 

superb gem ms 66 nicely toned barber dime a slightly better date say 1893

 

a nicely killer toned ms 65 barber quarter slightly better date like for example the 1901 approx 2900

 

a gem proof deep cameo barber quarter and i mean killer deep cameo pcgs only post 1900 mmmmmmm 3500 approx.

 

a nice choice to gem ms 1870's cc quarter ms 64 65 nicely to killer toned a slightly better date and last of the cc seated quarters 1878 cancelled die obverse even better

 

3000++++++

 

1795 flowing hair half dollar small head variety overton 127 128 129 choice full rims and nice surfaces little adjustment marks is okie nice vg to fine approx 1900-3500

 

a nice choice au 58 slider nicely struck pre 1820 bust half which is 50 times more scarce than a date from the late 1820's -1830's approx 1350

 

a gem proof monster toned motto pre 1870 seated half proof 65

approx 4300

 

a gem ms original white thick skinned killer lustre and i mean gem 65+ barber half dollar if you can find one approx 3500

 

a nice au 58 seated dollar original a nice coin even a common date so called common date 1859-o would be nice but not one of those ugly nicked up white treas horde coins but aqn original thick skinned prooflike one that was not part of the treas horde approx 1300

 

a nice small eagle bust dollar which is many many many times scarcer than their common large eagle cousins

 

1795-1798 maybe a little scarcer sexy dated 1797 with full rims no problems or sdjustment marks maybe a nice choice vf where they have not been driven up to crazy prices like that xf/au coins and with enough meat on the coin where a choice vf is a really respectible coin mmmmm approx

5000++

 

a nice choice really choice ms 64 before the jump in price trade dollar white never dipped or screwed with thick original skinnee coin and a sleeper much better date you rarely if ever see even in circ the 1874

 

mmmmmmmmm approx 4700

 

a nice ms 64 nice color and eye appeal saint generic date but no rub on eagles wing tips or knee approx 850

 

a gem ms 65 nicely lusterous nicely toned red orange gold 1879-1886 type three one dollar gold coin

 

1879 would be better as a sexy lower mintage date approx 2500

 

a choice au 58 slider better date lower mintage under 1500 mintage three from the 1880's approx 3500

 

a civil war dated three original and choice xf to au approx 2450

 

any sexy choice proof 1880's strong cameo proof 63+ but with great eye appeal three dollar gold mmmmmm if you can find one and it will be hard but approx 13,000.00

 

any sexy date close to gem proof64+ strongly cameoed pre civil war one dollar gold piece a really sweet sexy coin if you can find one approx 10,000.00

 

a civil war date proof quarter eagle nicely cameoed choice proof 63+ with great eye appeal most likely not the 1863

if you can find one approx 15,000

[IGWT]

I've copied Michael's post and forwarded it to Santa Claus.

[TomB]

 

When I told you what was in my safe deposit box, Michael, I didn't think you would share it with everyone!

[michael]

[GAB]

Michael, I love it !

I would probably add a 1907 High Relief - Spotless

And a monster proof Morgan - just for grins.

 

Let's start with just Dollars from your list:

 

1) any sexy date close to gem proof64+ strongly cameoed pre civil war one dollar gold piece a really sweet sexy coin if you can find one approx 10,000.00

 

2) a nice small eagle bust dollar which is many many many times scarcer than their common large eagle cousins

1795-1798 maybe a little scarcer sexy dated 1797 with full rims no problems or sdjustment marks maybe a nice choice vf where they have not been driven up to crazy prices like that xf/au coins and with enough meat on the coin where a choice vf is a really respectible coin mmmmm approx

5000++

 

3) a nice au 58 seated dollar original a nice coin even a common date so called common date 1859-o would be nice but not one of those ugly nicked up white treas horde coins but aqn original thick skinned prooflike one that was not part of the treas horde approx 1300

 

4) a nice choice really choice ms 64 before the jump in price trade dollar white never dipped or screwed with thick original skinnee coin and a sleeper much better date you rarely if ever see even in circ the 1874

mmmmmmmmm approx 4700

 

Hmmm, I guess you can't afford this one:

5) a gem ms 65 nicely lusterous nicely toned red orange gold 1879-1886 type three one dollar gold coin

1879 would be better as a sexy lower mintage date approx 2500

 

Oh well - that's close enough (21K - but I'm sure you could scrape up another grand somewhere - and you got the civil war proof gold dollar already!!)

 

Now - a week, month , year, decade, later - You decide you don't like the silver anymore (for some reason) and you just gotta have more of the gold coins from your list,

since it's obvious you probably won't ever get the whole type set completed with coins you like anyways. This problem is only compounded when a guy calls you and tells you he has a gorgeous one of these:

 

6) a civil war date proof quarter eagle nicely cameoed choice proof 63+ with great eye appeal most likely not the 1863

if you can find one approx 15,000

 

AND - he'll give you $14,000 for your silver dollars, not bad, since you only paid $11K

But he just can't let this "once in a lifetime" coin go for less that $ 16,000.

 

What do you do !!!1

[cpm9ball]

Michael, he said $20,000, not $200,000!

 

Chris

[James_OldeTowne]

"Investing" in coins as a secondary motive - I'm OK with that. But I still think that buying coins with "investing" as your PRIMARY motive is a mistake, and chances are you will be disappointed with the "performance" of your investment.

 

James

[EZ_E]

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

a super high end ms64 1858 flyer small letters or large letters fullstrike this is really important the full strike with original orange tan surfaces and no planchet striations or spots stains i would say cost you approx. 1900.00

 

a nicely toned great lustre ms 64 isabella quarter i would estimate this coin to be in the 1450.00 range

 

a really choice proof no motto seated dollar in cameo that is ever so lightly toned proof 63 but with the look of a higher grade and strongly cameoed any civil war date 1861-65

i would estimate this coin would cost you around 4500 but i am talking a killer high end greatly cameoed example with wonderful eye appeal

 

a one year type coin the 1859 indian head cent super high end ms64 and also silvery with a light tannish hue never dipped and no spots stains or striated streaky surfaces

i would say approx 1350+

 

1909 matte proof lincoln cent proof 66 full red pcgs only roman finish proof no spots stains even color and full red i wouls say this will cost you 3500 if you can find one which would be really hard

 

rb proof 65 lincoln cent matte proof 1909 wildly colored and again no spots stains and even coloration approx. 1500

 

wildly toned proof 66 67 three cent nick 1880's i would think if you can find one approx 2000

 

type two three cent silver gem ms 65 great lustre strike and toning killer toning i would say cost you 5000 but killer toned with monster lustre most likely an 1858

 

monster killer deep mirrors and monster toned cameo proof 67 lib nick approx 3500

 

1875-s gem ms twenty cent piece killer toned original and also fully struck stars on the obverse approx 5300

 

very choice close to gem ms 64 original toned and great l;ustre and above average strike large pre 1828 capped bust dime open collar strike a slightly better date would be nice say the 1825 5500 if you can find one

 

gem proof 1862 wildly toned proof 65 dime 3500 if you can find one pcgs only as most all of the ngc coins are dark

 

any monster toned full strike philly mint dime ms 67 from the 1880's 5000.00 approx

 

superb gem ms 66 nicely toned barber dime a slightly better date say 1893

 

a nicely killer toned ms 65 barber quarter slightly better date like for example the 1901 approx 2900

 

a gem proof deep cameo barber quarter and i mean killer deep cameo pcgs only post 1900 mmmmmmm 3500 approx.

 

a nice choice to gem ms 1870's cc quarter ms 64 65 nicely to killer toned a slightly better date and last of the cc seated quarters 1878 cancelled die obverse even better

 

3000++++++

 

1795 flowing hair half dollar small head variety overton 127 128 129 choice full rims and nice surfaces little adjustment marks is okie nice vg to fine approx 1900-3500

 

a nice choice au 58 slider nicely struck pre 1820 bust half which is 50 times more scarce than a date from the late 1820's -1830's approx 1350

 

a gem proof monster toned motto pre 1870 seated half proof 65

approx 4300

 

a gem ms original white thick skinned killer lustre and i mean gem 65+ barber half dollar if you can find one approx 3500

 

a nice au 58 seated dollar original a nice coin even a common date so called common date 1859-o would be nice but not one of those ugly nicked up white treas horde coins but aqn original thick skinned prooflike one that was not part of the treas horde approx 1300

 

a nice small eagle bust dollar which is many many many times scarcer than their common large eagle cousins

 

1795-1798 maybe a little scarcer sexy dated 1797 with full rims no problems or sdjustment marks maybe a nice choice vf where they have not been driven up to crazy prices like that xf/au coins and with enough meat on the coin where a choice vf is a really respectible coin mmmmm approx

5000++

 

a nice choice really choice ms 64 before the jump in price trade dollar white never dipped or screwed with thick original skinnee coin and a sleeper much better date you rarely if ever see even in circ the 1874

 

mmmmmmmmm approx 4700

 

a nice ms 64 nice color and eye appeal saint generic date but no rub on eagles wing tips or knee approx 850

 

a gem ms 65 nicely lusterous nicely toned red orange gold 1879-1886 type three one dollar gold coin

 

1879 would be better as a sexy lower mintage date approx 2500

 

a choice au 58 slider better date lower mintage under 1500 mintage three from the 1880's approx 3500

 

a civil war dated three original and choice xf to au approx 2450

 

any sexy choice proof 1880's strong cameo proof 63+ but with great eye appeal three dollar gold mmmmmm if you can find one and it will be hard but approx 13,000.00

 

any sexy date close to gem proof64+ strongly cameoed pre civil war one dollar gold piece a really sweet sexy coin if you can find one approx 10,000.00

 

a civil war date proof quarter eagle nicely cameoed choice proof 63+ with great eye appeal most likely not the 1863

if you can find one approx 15,000

[michael]

well you can always mix or match the

coins for 20k or under

 

 

it is good to have choices n sort of like a coin super market then in the super market you cant afford it all but you just fill your cart so to speak with what you want within your coin budget

 

now i would add to this list any pre 1915 type coins in choice vf to choice unc and also choice proof!!!!

[Oldtrader3]

Any Indian Gold in MS64 or higher that is properly graded, with nice luster and anywhere near retail price!

[Count_Erfit]

20 grand?

 

A few Heraldic Eagle Half Eagles.

 

Any change left?

An XF or AU Three dollar gold or two.

[jgrinz]

I personally have a split personality

I collect for fun AND investment but as investment in coins you have to think strategically and with a FUTURE end of the investment.Take your profit when it reached your threshhold and dump to the highest bidder. On another post HaydenTubbs ventured a post about what would be the best return on a coin under $20. This is a good frame of mind when thinking in investment terms. On my return post to him I had a few good options for that question you might want to check it out as the items have a good LONG term investment profile for cheap money.

My Best "investment" so far was a 1995 Eagle Anniversary Set in Original boxed condition. Purchase in 2002 for $2200. Seemed like a lot of money - But the research I had done there was ONLY upside potential. Not a bad return for my money if you check values today. Investment criteria should involve all three of the following - Rarity ( Production numbers ot Limited Production ) - a metal with more than numismatic value ( Gold / Silver ) - and a coin with Collectable value or Interest ( Grade/ Circulation/ Slabbed / Raw / etc )

Good Luck on Your Investment/Collection

 

My

 

Mike

[GAB]

Thanks to ALL !!

 

My take: (I have not figured out how to use all the Chat Board tools, so bear with me!)

 

Favorite quotes:

 

From Michael

"coins are a hobby for fun and you got to buy coins only with discretionary funds"

- I like to think of it more like - Don't use the mortgage payment or the kids lunch money!

 

From Jtryka

" there is nothing wrong with doing a little trading here and there to support your hobby."

- I sometimes feel like the word "habit" could be used instead of "hobby"!

 

From Michael again

"i would buy

some undervalued opportunity coins

that have tremendous eye appeal

and some extra special qualities about them"

- What a great WANT list, just a little subjective !

and

"it is good to have choices n sort of like a coin super market then in the super market you cant afford it all but you just fill your cart so to speak with what you want within your coin budget"

- I'd say the internet is kind of like Walmart for coins !

 

From Jgrinz

" Investment criteria should involve all three of the following - Rarity ( Production numbers ot Limited Production ) - a metal with more than numismatic value ( Gold / Silver ) - and a coin with Collectable value or Interest ( Grade/ Circulation/ Slabbed / Raw / etc )"

- The key here being that the coin(s) should of Collectable value and interest to SOMEBODY

 

Bottom line (and a couple of my own opinions!)

 

Collecting coins as a hobby should be for the purpose of enriching your PERSONAL interest in coins - whatever that interest is - Art, History,social, time passing,other ..

 

Investing in coins has it's hazards, but it too can be an exhilarating and educational experience - in its own way - sometimes good and some times not so!

 

My best investments so far :

1999 Silver proof sets (I sold them all too early !!)

 

2001-s Sac $1 proof rolls (I still don't know why?)

 

1850 - complete set of AU or better - Gold and Silver (no proofs)

Not a great performer from the ROI perspective, but it was real fun and I still did better than I would have in a bank.

 

$20 Liberties - Exciting, very educational, and would have been much more profitable but for a couple of "lessons learned" coins. Still made a little money.

 

 

My worst investments so far:

1904 - complete HI grade date set - business strike and proof, Gold and Silver. Lot's of fun, educational (the hard way!), and very costly.

 

Half Dollar proof set - Barber thru Kennedy. Barbers and Walkers are gone, Franklins are on the way out, Kennedys are next in line. This has been a disaster - and I have lost my patience, interest and plenty of money !!

 

I still have lots of coins - and will continue to trade with many of them. I'm sure I will always have my personal "untouchable" collection coins - and even though I thoroughly enjoy all the aspects of collecting, studying, researching and involvement - in the end, I still hope to come out AHEAD financially, and would sell all of them (and probably start over) if the price was RIGHT!

 

The real question - What is the RIGHT price ?