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Hey I'm back.
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19 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Thanks to those who didn't poke as much fun as they could at me. I get it. I'm back tho. No assumptions on super value. Just a question about an error I have only seen one of. Or maybe I just don't have the experience y'all have. Yet. So please, in the numismatic way, what the heck do I have? And what up with his nose? Is it a broadstrike?

Edited, what's up with the rim? Looks sloped.

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Edited by Hammersred
Forgot to ask first question
Posted
On 8/13/2023 at 9:25 PM, Hoghead515 said:

A cud is where a piece of the edge of the die breaks off and leaves a big blob that connects to the rim of the coin. The metal from the planchet fills up that space where part of the die is missing. There are other members on here that will chime in eventually and explain it better than I can. 

Nah, freaking nailed it for me. Ty. What's up with the lower right edge\rim? It's 45°

Posted

How does the reeding look on the edge? is it consistent all the way around?

Posted

BOB! My favorite! 

The reeding is super inconsistent and nearly non existent and smooth around the 'error'

Posted
On 8/13/2023 at 10:40 PM, Hammersred said:

BOB! My favorite! 

The reeding is super inconsistent and nearly non existent and smooth around the 'error'

Any chance you could post some clear pics of the edge - especially at LIBERTY and directly opposite? And, are the letters in LIBERTY higher than the adjacent rim?

Posted

looks a little off center to me that could lead to the wider rim on the liberty side.  and @Hoghead515  is correct on the die chip 

Posted
On 8/13/2023 at 10:25 PM, Hoghead515 said:

A cud is where a piece of the edge of the die breaks off and leaves a big blob that connects to the rim of the coin. The metal from the planchet fills up that space where part of the die is missing. There are other members on here that will chime in eventually and explain it better than I can. 

...pretty much right on, most cuds do occur adjacent to the rim, there r some that occur on the interior of the coin when the die approaches catastrophic terminal failure n portions of the die literally fall out, these r however pretty rare but i have seen n owned a few over the years, usually in the earlier US series when die supply was often critical n used long past their shelf life, i guess u could call such a cud a really big die chip....

Posted
On 8/13/2023 at 10:50 PM, Just Bob said:

Any chance you could post some clear pics of the edge - especially at LIBERTY and directly opposite? And, are the letters in LIBERTY higher than the adjacent rim?

You betcha.

 

I think it is, the micrometer says it is. And the L I are kinda gnarly, they slope right into the slide . I would think, environmental, but just in that spot? It's not a dryer coin for sure. You see that ding right above E R ?

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Posted (edited)

Blurry I know, but, doubling? I am rookie, I see it in TRUST, W, N

 

 

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Edited by Hammersred
Add pics
Posted (edited)

I cant tell a whole lot by the pics but, looks like it may have a little mechanical doubling. Its not the true doubling. Its often caused by die detiriation. Its also very common. Hope I spelled that right. As most has seen on here Im not the best speller. I know some pretty fancy words I can use on here sometimes but, I dont because I dont know how to spell them. lol

Edited by Hoghead515
Posted
On 8/15/2023 at 4:36 PM, Hoghead515 said:

I cant tell a whole lot by the pics but, looks like it may have a little mechanical doubling. Its not the true doubling. Its often caused by die detiriation. Hope I spelled that right. As most has seen on here Im not the best speller. I know some pretty fancy words I can use on here sometimes but, I dont because I dont know how to spell them. lol

So what's the visual difference between mechanical and true doubling? 

Posted (edited)
On 8/15/2023 at 5:39 PM, Hammersred said:

So what's the visual difference between mechanical and true doubling? 

Mechanical doubling is shelf like doubling and can be pretty dramatic sometimes. True doubling usually has split serifs and widens the letters sometimes. Ill tag @EagleRJO. Hes got a diagram that shows thr difference in them. Whenever he comes back on here Im sure he wouldnt care to share it with you. @Sandon may have it saved also. They are better at explaining things more than I am. 

Edited by Hoghead515
Posted (edited)
On 8/15/2023 at 5:44 PM, Hoghead515 said:

Ill tag @EagleRJO. Hes got a diagram that shows thr difference in them.

The attached infographic is from the following topic, which also has a few links about doubling and other errors/varieties ... https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/430263-basic-resources-glossary-for-those-posting-questions/

On 8/15/2023 at 5:44 PM, Hoghead515 said:

Mechanical doubling is shelf like doubling and can be pretty dramatic sometimes. True doubling usually has split serifs and widens the letters sometimes.

True doubling is usually just as high as the doubled elements, which is best to look for with the coin in-hand, and also look for notching at corners per the doubling infographic.

Errors - Doubled Die Graphic.jpg

Edited by EagleRJO
Posted
On 8/15/2023 at 5:39 PM, Hammersred said:

So what's the visual difference between mechanical and true doubling? 

   Your question would be better phrased as, "What is the difference between mechanical doubling (also known as machine doubling and strike doubling) and die doubling"?

    NGC has a good article describing this difference at Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com).  The significance of the difference is that a coin struck from a doubled die may be worth a premium, especially if it is prominent enough to be popular with collectors, whereas a coin with mechanical doubling isn't worth a premium to a knowledgeable collector.  Another form of "worthless doubling" is die deterioration doubling, which presents itself as a weak or ghostly secondary image due to a worn and eroded die.

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