New to the hobby 1 1

[Tgcisland]

My father passed a few years back and I am starting to go through his coins, finally. A few questions right now; 1) I want a digital microscope to take pictures of coins. It would be ideal if I can get great pics and plug into my iPad. Thoughts? 2) should I purchase any type of 2022 price guides? I do have a bunch of error coins and lot of older coins. 3) Will NGC grade a 1994 Error Roosevelt dime a full torch? It seems to have one. It’s some sort of punch issue.  You can see about 25% of the blank planchet.  Would this even make much difference in value? Thank you for any help in advance. I hope I posted to right board.  Tom.  

[Tgcisland]

Also, I just found this in one of the boxes.  What is this type of error?  Worth grading?

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

Sorry to hear of the loss of your Dad.  He left you some interesting coins.  I will try to answer your questions from my perspective:

1) I want a digital microscope to take pictures of coins. It would be ideal if I can get great pics and plug into my iPad. Thoughts?

There are several scope options.  I have an Amscope Binocular Scope with a camera.  This would likely be overkill for what you are doing.  I have not tried the small pen-like scopes, but some swear by them.  I will let the others talk brands and such.  I would say to get a good loupe first if you don't have one. 

2) should I purchase any type of 2022 price guides?

If you are not super familiar with coins, the Red Book is a must.  However, the price guide is not accurate.  There is a dealer magazine called the Greysheet, and this is more accurate in providing wholesale prices (but still inaccurate at times, especially on errors and die varieties).  Auction "hammer" prices will give you the best indication of selling prices, but it takes work to comb through them (Heritage, Great Collections, Ebay Sold Auctions are all great auctions to start.)  Do make sure you look at SOLD lots, not asking prices.  Sometimes there is a wide delta.

I do have a bunch of error coins and lot of older coins. 3) Will NGC grade a 1994 Error Roosevelt dime a full torch?

I am unsure, but they do provide numeric grades, so I believe the suffixes would also convey where applicable.

You can see about 25% of the blank planchet.  Would this even make much difference in value? 

Offset strikes, lamination breaks and major errors do command a premium.  However, there is a wide variance in asking price in errors.  Seems to be, "the wilder the error... the more it costs."  The error experts will give you better guidance here. 

 

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

On 1/25/2022 at 9:38 AM, Tgcisland said:

Also, I just found this in one of the boxes.  What is this type of error?  Worth grading?

This is called a lamination break.  Sometimes this is called a "clamshell", but the top portion has completely come off.  It's very cool!

Worth grading?  I am not sure.  Grading memberships, shipping, etc. get expensive.  I am not sure how much you have, or if you can get any sort of "bulk submission" discount.  Are you grading them to sell?  Grading, because that's what you want for your Dad's collection?  I am not sure how much grading adds to the profit on these errors (I am not an error guy), but keep in mind how much the costs eat-into the coin value.  

[tj96]

Sorry to hear of the loss of your Dad.  Looks like your dad  knew what he was collecting.  Nice family heirloom or keepsakes to keep in your family. 

[Tgcisland]

Thanks for the kind words.  I am trying to get my state of affairs in order.  I need a organ transplant that most likely won’t come so I am trying to organize for my wife. There is over quote lbs in coins most of the weight seems to be in $25 mint bags and mint rolls from the 90s. He has a 1855s $3 gold coin but it has scratches on one side pretty bad.  I think what I want to do is get rid of a bunch of stuff.  Keep some bullion and nice coins for her. If graded I thought it would be easier to sell.  

[Mr.Bill347]

Welcome to the forum. Sorry about your Father and to hear of your need as well. 
yes if you are going to analyze the collection you should get a newer RedBook.

I use a microscope I purchased from Amazon for $28 and a (strongly suggested stand). $21

the scope has a built in wifi that you attach the iPad to and download an app for the camera. It’s wireless and has a USB charging cable with it. The app lets you take still and video pictures and save them to your device.

pictures below. You father must have been somewhat serious if he was buying mint bags and rolls. If you don’t want to spend the time, looking at coin values do not sell them for melt! If you are intending to sell them make sure you have an American Numismatic Association dealer evaluate them. Of course you can always post clear cropped pictures here for some excellent knowledge.

finally rule of thumb if the coin is worth $150 it is worth grading and associated costs NGC or PCGS

if you have an iPhone you can use you camera with a 50% zoom at about 4 inches parallel to the coin and the photo editor to crop it nicely. Example attached.

 

[JKK]

On 1/25/2022 at 8:00 AM, Tgcisland said:

Thanks for the kind words.  I am trying to get my state of affairs in order.  I need a organ transplant that most likely won’t come so I am trying to organize for my wife. There is over quote lbs in coins most of the weight seems to be in $25 mint bags and mint rolls from the 90s. He has a 1855s $3 gold coin but it has scratches on one side pretty bad.  I think what I want to do is get rid of a bunch of stuff.  Keep some bullion and nice coins for her. If graded I thought it would be easier to sell.  

Some simple handling for the bulk stuff: that before 1965, dimes and up, has precious metal. (65-70 halves have some too.) Treat those differently. Most bulk modern stuff 65 and later can be deposited unless part of a mint or proof set (some people bought those in bulk). It's not that you will not find rarities in there; it's that it could take a long time and deserves to be saved for last. Don't thumb loose coins (might want to use latex gloves). For pennies, 1958 and before are wheaties and mostly worth a bit over face in bulk, but before 1934 they start to take on more individual value in any condition.

On having the coins graded--bear in mind that you too can grade once you know the standards, so saying "graded" is not fully descriptive--the issue is that most of the candidates won't pass the value test. For example, a Barber dime in EF would seem worth a lot to most non-coin folks, but late common dates book in CW at $30-50--about the cost of having one graded, which would mean you spent the coin's most optimistic value so you could sell it for that optimistic value. As a general rule, 99.9% of most inherited collections doesn't merit grading, because in most cases (up to you whether this is germane to you--I'm not alleging) most collectors who know and collect real rarities rather than being mere accumulators would have already had them TPG graded to begin with. For example, your $3 probably wasn't sent in because he knew it'd come back labeled Damaged, which he might have said "Not paying them $50 to tell me something anyone can see." Fair enough.

[Coinbuf]

Condolences on the passing of your father.   My thoughts on your questions:

1) I want a digital microscope to take pictures of coins. It would be ideal if I can get great pics and plug into my iPad. Thoughts?

I am very much against the use of microscopes for anyone new to the hobby.   They cause folks to chase their tail looking at pixel refractions, minute toning, metal flow that ends up resembling a letter, and just general pareidolia.   I always say that everything looks like something at the micron level.   Your photos in this thread are fine, you just need to crop them so that there is not so much of the desk in the photo and you are good.   We only need good close, in focus, cropped photos to answer questions, not photos of a single speck of sand in the Mohave desert.

2) should I purchase any type of 2022 price guides?

A copy of the redbook will be enough to get you in the ballpark, you can purchase one or you may be able to find one at your local library.  Errors are a weird and thin area of the coin market area that do not conform to most price guides so they will not be much help for those coins.  I would suggest that you take photos of all your error coins and contact one of the major dealers in errors and inquire if they can help you with valuations.   There are two I can think of but one just retired, Mike Byers is the next: His website

3) Will NGC grade a 1994 Error Roosevelt dime a full torch?

I do not know but am sure that Mike can answer this question.

Both your off center dime and the lamination error half are very nice errors and do have some substantial market value, here again I would defer to an expert in this area like Mike.

Best of luck as you move forward, it seems that your father kept some neat coins to pass down to your family.

[Tgcisland]

Wow, this is a great hobby.  My back is killing me going through his unorganized coins.  Just came across this one:  Coinbuf I have not yet spoken to Mike. He did quickly respond to me and will shoot me an email when he can.   Thank you for your help and all others.  So far I have been working on trying to organize by years, types, etc.   then I guess will dig in to them. I think this is a double strike ( by Roosevelt head) with a full torch.  Not sure the FT matters. Any thoughts from experts?

 

[JKK]

With all the parking lot junk, mechanical and die deterioration doubling, dryer coins, and other such crapola, it's rather a pleasure to see some for-real error coins. I am not sure whether that is what we call brockage, but I see no logical reason to believe it didn't happen at the mint. As for what type of error that is, I will leave it for those who collect them.

[Hoghead515]

On 1/26/2022 at 6:55 PM, Tgcisland said:

Wow, this is a great hobby.  My back is killing me going through his unorganized coins.  Just came across this one:  Coinbuf I have not yet spoken to Mike. He did quickly respond to me and will shoot me an email when he can.   Thank you for your help and all others.  So far I have been working on trying to organize by years, types, etc.   then I guess will dig in to them. I think this is a double strike ( by Roosevelt head) with a full torch.  Not sure the FT matters. Any thoughts from experts?

 

That looks like a really cool die clash to me. Sweet looking rosie. 

[J P M]

Ya I like all this stuff so far. 

[tj96]

I don't know guys.  I'm in the PMD vise job column on this 1970 Roosevelt.

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

On 1/26/2022 at 7:18 PM, tj96 said:

I don't know guys.  I'm in the PMD vise job column on this 1970 Roosevelt.

I vote legit. It's upside down, but not backwards.

Edited January 27, 2022 by The Neophyte Numismatist

[Woods020]

I’m far from an error expert, but if this was a vise job would it have the finned rim? I don’t see how that would be done at home. But who knows. I wouldn’t be surprised either way. 

Edited January 27, 2022 by Woods020

[tj96]

On 1/26/2022 at 7:29 PM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

I vote legit. It's upside down, but not backwards.

I need to add a disclaimer to somewhere in my posts.

Disclaimer:

I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist.

(To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )

[Tgcisland]

What?  People use a vice to do that?  It seems like a mint error. No rough vice scratches plus the word “states” is messed up.   I am going to put it in the pile to have it graded. Will report back on it. Too much stuff to go through. Will send off 10 or do coins I think. 

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

Using a vice is a way that some people try to fake the look of an error. You take two coins and smash them together.  However, the result is the impression being left backward on the coin.  I am no error expert, but I think your coin is genuine.  Your error collection is certainly a cool one.

[tj96]

On 1/26/2022 at 8:13 PM, Tgcisland said:

I am going to put it in the pile to have it graded. Will report back on it.

Thanks!  I look forward to seeing the results of my non-professional grading skills. 

[BearlyHereBear]

You may also use the NCG, PCGS, & Coin World price guides to help establish value for free.  I use them to gage whether the Ebay prices are relatively in line.

[tj96]

On 1/27/2022 at 12:22 PM, BearlyHereBear said:

You may also use the NCG, PCGS, & Coin World price guides to help establish value for free.  I use them to gage whether the Ebay prices are relatively in line.

eBay recently "sold items" (assuming you know what you're looking at) is probably the best current indicator of fair market value.

[Just Bob]

I am still trying to work out how this was made. The "interior reeding" - for lack of a better term - above the portrait would almost certainly have had to come from being pressed by another coin with a reeded edge. However, the partial lettering and designs could have happened due to a flip-over double strike, although it would have had to have landed back in the collar perfectly. I can't seem to reconcile the two different occurrences. This one has me baffled.

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

On 1/27/2022 at 3:54 PM, Just Bob said:

I am still trying to work out how this was made. The "interior reeding" - for lack of a better term - above the portrait would almost certainly have had to come from being pressed by another coin with a reeded edge. However, the partial lettering and designs could have happened due to a flip-over double strike, although it would have had to have landed back in the collar perfectly. I can't seem to reconcile the two different occurrences. This one has me baffled.

Bob - it's the partial lettering that makes me keep coming back to this being a legitimate error.  The "E. Pluribus..." looks lined up like a die clash.  But, the "ON" in One do not match-up to the same places on Roosevelt's head.   I do see what you mean about the "interior reeding".  This is a very interesting coin to examine.

[J P M]

A partially caped die would put those impressions on the obverse.  

[Tgcisland]

Wow you guys are good.  It so hard for me to see yet understand what to what am I looking at.  For example I can’t tell if this would considered a type 1 type 2 SBA. My phones stinks at pics. I will look for a cheap microscope on Amazon and get a few books. Wish I had them now for pending snow blizzard here in NH. 

[Lem E]

On 1/28/2022 at 5:02 PM, Tgcisland said:

Wow you guys are good.  It so hard for me to see yet understand what to what am I looking at.  For example I can’t tell if this would considered a type 1 type 2 SBA. My phones stinks at pics. I will look for a cheap microscope on Amazon and get a few books. Wish I had them now for pending snow blizzard here in NH. 

This may help you.
 

https://coinweek.com/modern-coins/type-i-and-ii-1979-and-1981-susan-b-anthony-dollars/