Authenticity of 1943S penny
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10 posts in this topic

Not looking for a grading per say but more of an authentication that this isn’t plated. If it looks good and genuine then maybe an opinion on if it would be worth having sent in to have graded and certified as an error with the large die crack on the reverse?

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Welcome to NGC.  Your steel Lincoln appears to be genuine and not plated or reprocessed IMO. It looks to have original mint luster on the obverse and reverse of your coin in your second and third pics which is not something consistent with re-plated steel Cents. I'm with @Just Bob ,who is a professional here on the forum, about a picture of the edge of your coin. This will tell us a lot.

Also, a die crack is a very common thing on all denominations and is not a Mint error.  It is considered a die event and adds no extra premium to a coin unless it is completely out of the norm and substantially large but then you are getting into an entire different category of die issues which are not considered die cracks (too much to explain here).  Your Cent, in my opinion, is not worth spending the money on a submission.

Edited by GBrad
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Agree with the above. 
The edge is the easiest way to tell if it is plated or not. Also it wouldn’t be worth spending $50.00 or so getting it graded as it would not be worth near that even though it is a nice looking coin.

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I'm with GBrad and Greenstang.....your cent is genuine, original and not replated.  However, though it is a nice coin, it wouldn't be worth the expense of having it graded.

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Thanks for all the replies. Here’s some photos of the edge. Sorry if any of them are hard to see. Im working with a phone camera and I’m not the best  photographer with these things lol. And also thanks for the advice on getting submitted or not. Obviously I’m just a newbie and just joined the ANA to learn more about coin collecting. I get direct submission with NGC through ANA so I’m a little excited about wanting to have some of my own coins slabbed. I’m more interested in collecting rare and error coins and not really sets of anything. I try to do my best and research before I ask to what some may consider a stupid question so bare with me if any come about. I have other coins I’ll be posting on here with questions so if any of yall remember me just let me know if a particular coin I post is something you’d send in for submission and I won’t keep asking if I should in every post😂 As for this gem I’ll just put her away with everyone’s advice and let my nephew decide on that in another 20 to 30 years. He’s only 3 but I still keep those blah coins and errors for him. Thanks again everyone.

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I’m just curious about the grading process and what gives a coin like this a grade of MS-65? Does a die crack void these of that kind of grade even though it’s common in these? Sorry once again if this is a dumb question but how are us dummies supposed to learn without asking them lmao.

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On 11/1/2021 at 1:26 PM, Keith Dee said:

I’m just curious about the grading process and what gives a coin like this a grade of MS-65? Does a die crack void these of that kind of grade even though it’s common in these? Sorry once again if this is a dumb question but how are us dummies supposed to learn without asking them lmao.

Usually the Steelies are graded based on strike sharpness and luster , higher luster brings better grade … this steel cent shown above in pictures is typical mint state average what we mostly see , keep in mind steel cent is a very common coin to see they didn’t circulate very much as they were only made for 1 year a lot of them were hoarded back can be found very easily . 

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I'm glad to see someone has actually taken the initiative to keep from getting their oils and fingerprints permanently embedded on a coin. But, at the same time, it would still be best to hold your coins by the edge.  Just FYI.  

Edited by GBrad
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On 11/1/2021 at 2:00 PM, GBrad said:

I'm glad to see someone has actually taken the initiative to keep from getting their oils and fingerprints permanently embedded on a coin. But, at the same time, it would still be best to hold your coins by the edge.  Just FYI.  

Wow I’m finally able to respond to these posts. Sorry for not responding sooner. There must of been a glitch with my account or your limited to how much you can post or reply on here because I couldn’t do either yesterday. Anyway yes I always wear my gloves when handling any coin circulated or otherwise. I do my best to hold them by the edge. Not so easy for me when taking pictures hence the reason for the gloves. I’ve bought a silver coin before under the impression it was “Gem quality” only to see whoever’s fat fingerprint on the obverse🙄 Luckily I didn’t pay top dollar for it. Coins I find and want to save get handled with kid gloves and put into a protector right away. I don’t clean them polish them or wipe them clean. I’m not worried that my coins aren’t grading quality or carries a premium. I still treat them like they are and do because some day it just might for my nephew.

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