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Question about proofs
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13 posts in this topic

Posted

Hello!

I am a new collector and have a 1981 US Proof set.  Is it best to leave as the set or break them out for both grading and selling?

Thanks for any advise you can provide.

Posted

Unless it's the clear S variant, I don't see any sense sending it in for grading. If you want to sell it, you could choose to cut it up or sell it as a set. If you are a new collector, I vote for keeping it as a set because you probably have not handled many proof coins and would stand an excellent chance of messing them up (very easy to do even for seasoned collectors). Takes linen gloves or leprechaun condoms, plastic tongs, a very soft and absolutely clean cloth, and methodical patience.

Posted

Seeing that those sets sell for between $8-10.00 (with the exception of the Type 2 mm), it would cost you way more than that to have one coin graded

Leave it as it is

 

Posted
20 hours ago, MarkFeld said:

Keep it together as a set and don't throw away money to get it graded.

Thank you

Posted
20 hours ago, MarkFeld said:

Keep it together as a set and don't throw away money to get it graded.

 

20 hours ago, MarkFeld said:

Keep it together as a set and don't throw away money to get it graded.

 

20 hours ago, Greenstang said:

Seeing that those sets sell for between $8-10.00 (with the exception of the Type 2 mm), it would cost you way more than that to have one coin graded

Leave it as it is

 

Thanks everyone for your knowledge!

Posted
20 hours ago, JKK said:

Unless it's the clear S variant, I don't see any sense sending it in for grading. If you want to sell it, you could choose to cut it up or sell it as a set. If you are a new collector, I vote for keeping it as a set because you probably have not handled many proof coins and would stand an excellent chance of messing them up (very easy to do even for seasoned collectors). Takes linen gloves or leprechaun condoms, plastic tongs, a very soft and absolutely clean cloth, and methodical patience.

I appreciate everyone's help! As a newbie I am a bit nervous about messing things up!

Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, CRGW said:

I appreciate everyone's help! As a newbie I am a bit nervous about messing things up!

Good. With proof coins, if you aren't nervous about how you handle them, you're probably about to *spoon* them up. There are good and safe methods if you need to. For example, let's say you got a 65S proof Rosey in a very old flip you knew was going to ruin it (before mylar became the flip cellophane of choice). You'd have to get it out. I would:

  • Get hold of a new flip and get it creased, ready to accept the coin.
  • Lay out a clean cloth (ideally brand new, but at least clean without having gathered dust).
  • If the staples aren't flat-clinched, straighten the clasps gently with a staple puller. (If they are, prise them vertical with a knife blade and care).
  • Loosen each staple with a knife tip. Start taking special care not to have the coin flop around as the flip becomes less tight.
  • Pull each staple with a pliers, continuing to take care. You are doing this to protect it from staple scrapes getting it out. (Coins have a built-in homing function that seeks out and attracts them to the nearest sharp staple point, just as a coin dropped on the ground will surely roll under the desk and right through the dust bunnies. Proof coin manufacture involves highly evolved versions of this staple-finding function.)
  • Use plastic tongs to get under the coin. (The cloth is just for if the coin falls, so it will fall on something safe.)
  • Lock the tongs on it and lay it gently in the new flip. Let go; nudge it into proper alignment by pushing the edge.
  • Close the new flip, gently, making sure the coin does not move.
  • While continuing to make sure of that, start stapling the flip in whatever pattern you choose. I use 12-3-6-9, but some use 130-430-730-1030, some use 12-430-730, and so on. Don't let the coin move. If it does, patiently remove the staples and get a new flip.
  • Once it's in the new flip and secure, flat-clinch the staples with the pliers. Do not louse up the mylar by being a slob about this. If you used a flat-clinch stapler, obviously, not necessary.

Your coin is now free to move safely about the collection.

Edited by JKK
Posted
8 minutes ago, JKK said:

Good. With proof coins, if you aren't nervous about how you handle them, you're probably about to *spoon* them up. There are good and safe methods if you need to. For example, let's say you got a 65S proof Rosey in a very old flip you knew was going to ruin it (before mylar became the flip cellophane of choice). You'd have to get it out. I would:

  • Get hold of a new flip and get it creased, ready to accept the coin.
  • Lay out a clean cloth (ideally brand new, but at least clean without having gathered dust).
  • If the staples aren't flat-clinched, straighten the clasps gently with a staple puller. (If they are, prise them vertical with a knife blade and care).
  • Loosen each staple with a knife tip. Start taking special care not to have the coin flop around as the flip becomes less tight.
  • Pull each staple with a pliers, continuing to take care. You are doing this to protect it from staple scrapes getting it out. (Coins have a built-in homing function that seeks out and attracts them to the nearest sharp staple point, just as a coin dropped on the ground will surely roll under the desk and right through the dust bunnies. Proof coin manufacture involves highly evolved versions of this staple-finding function.)
  • Use plastic tongs to get under the coin. (The cloth is just for if the coin falls, so it will fall on something safe.)
  • Lock the tongs on it and lay it gently in the new flip. Let go; nudge it into proper alignment by pushing the edge.
  • Close the new flip, gently, making sure the coin does not move.
  • While continuing to make sure of that, start stapling the flip in whatever pattern you choose. I use 12-3-6-9, but some use 130-430-730-1030, some use 12-430-730, and so on. Don't let the coin move. If it does, patiently remove the staples and get a new flip.
  • Once it's in the new flip and secure, flat-clinch the staples with the pliers. If you used a flat-clinch stapler, obviously, not necessary.

Your coin is now free to move safely about the collection.

Thank you! Thank you! Awesome info.

Posted

Grading is very expensive and a pain in the butt, not to mention time consuming.  Unless you have a coin with extra worth, I wouldn't do it.

I've been waiting on NGC to grade these since 12/8:

V75 ASE

Robert Kennedy Commemorative set (with matte JFK)

Both proof dimes to March of Dimes commemorative set.

Texas Centennial .50

Lord, please grant me patience NOW!

 

 

Still need to send 1964 D .25 Type C reverse in.

Posted
On 1/30/2021 at 9:53 AM, BearlyHereBear said:

Grading is very expensive and a pain in the butt, not to mention time consuming.  Unless you have a coin with extra worth, I wouldn't do it.

I've been waiting on NGC to grade these since 12/8:

V75 ASE

Robert Kennedy Commemorative set (with matte JFK)

Both proof dimes to March of Dimes commemorative set.

Texas Centennial .50

Lord, please grant me patience NOW!

 

 

Still need to send 1964 D .25 Type C reverse in.

I love the reverse of the Texas Centennial. 

Posted
On 1/30/2021 at 10:53 AM, BearlyHereBear said:

Lord, please grant me patience NOW!

Haven't heard of that commemorative coin -- but it sure sounds like one we could all use. ;)

Posted

Wow! Getting lots of great info.  Thanks to everyone!!!

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