This one just spoke to me posted by Walkerfan

[CSJournals-migration]

And I given in to a good strike and luster.

 

A couple of years ago; I purchased a 1947 P Walker coin in NGC MS 66+ that I really liked and that is fully original. I also liked the 1947 P coin, because it gave me just a few more Registry points for my Date Set than it's Denver brother, and I got it for a lot less than I had thought that I would have to pay.

 

Anyway, my plan was always to make it a matched set by finding a nice 1947 D coin in NGC MS 66+ to go along with it. I had the opportunity to do just that on two separate occasions. The first time was through a major auction, which failed miserably due to the fact that their faulty bidding software would not accept my strong online bid. The second time was through an online sale, in which the coin was priced very reasonably. Foolishly, I passed on that second coin, too----this time it was totally MY fault. Other MS 66+ Denver coins had appeared but they looked to me to have very dull surfaces, poorer strikes and they were priced rather unrealistically, IMHO. They also have a real LOW Census......around 12 for each mint marked issue the last time that I checked, so they don't show up too often. I think that this number will increase in the future, though.

 

So, I thought to myself---'WHY NOT just purchase a nice MS 66, if one happens to come along, and even save a little bit of money?' A PCGS MS 66 1947 D example that had a VERY sharp strike came up but, again, I failed to pull the trigger! Then, I saw this NGC 66 example. The strike is almost as good as the PCGS coin, as I think that this NGC example has good split separations on all of the branch stem lines and the thumb is well above average with just some softness on the index finger. The surfaces and luster on this piece are even BETTER than the PCGS coin, too. So, I purchased this one for a really FAIR price.....it was an effortless transaction and gave me quite a thrill on a boring Sunday afternoon. Low risk and a lot of FUN.

 

The 1947 P and D coins are NOT strike rarities, when considered in the broader range of the series, but sharp, nearly fully struck examples almost never surface from my own experiences.

 

This one fills the slot for me and gets the job done. It puts me just past the halfway completion mark on my Walker Short Set, also. Plus, it gives me an unintended yet nicely matched pair of 1947 coins. There were no San Francisco coins minted in that last year, either, there are just those two---the Philly and Denver issues.

 

I am not about 'ga-ga' grades and completion is my primary goal nd gives me more satisfaction, now, as I can always upgrade later, if I wish, although I probably won't, as I am very satisfied with what I have. Besides, I don't want to overpay for a coin that has been maxed out through the grading process but is not technically 'all there' in it's tomb. I am seeing this more than ever these days and the end results can be quite costly. This is certainly NOT to say that many coins don't, in fact, deserve an upgrade---they certainly do just not all. Besides, I have always been about quality and not just the number on the slab. I'd rather buy under-graded coins for less money and then have them re-graded, myself, although I do feel that this particular coin is properly graded at MS 66 and should not upgrade and be left alone. The only reason that I point this out is that I am still satisfied with a MS 66 rather than a MS 66+ or MS 67.

 

So, I'm very pleased, as I continue to move forward.

 

Good Luck to all of my friends out there, as it certainly DOESN'T get any easier!

 

See more journals by Walkerfan

[Walkerfan]

[Yankeejose]

Nice pickup Walkerfan! Although I don't play at your level I have learned a lot about Walkers from your posts and I have used that knowledge for my own purchases. thanks for sharing!

[Six Mile Rick]

A great choice!!

I like the coin and fields much better in MS66 than MS66+. I am not all about the toned slobber looks of MS66+ and MS67 Walkers. I have sold many Walkers in the day and that is a sweet looking Walker for sure!!

 

Congrats,

Rick

[Walkerfan]

Nice pickup Walkerfan! Although I don't play at your level I have learned a lot about Walkers from your posts and I have used that knowledge for my own purchases. thanks for sharing!

 

GREAT! That's what I like to hear. I enjoy teaching and it gives me great satisfaction knowing that it is helping you. I like to give back just as those before me did for me. THANK YOU!

[Walkerfan]

A great choice!!

I like the coin and fields much better in MS66 than MS66+. I am not all about the toned slobber looks of MS66+ and MS67 Walkers. I have sold many Walkers in the day and that is a sweet looking Walker for sure!!

 

Congrats,

Rick

 

Thanks, Rick! That's an interesting point and I definitely value your insight, as you have handled a lot of coins. Glad you like my Walker!!

[coinsbygary]

I love it when coins speak! I am of the opinion that eye appeal in a coin trumps grade. In fact, sometimes we miss the coins we really like when grade clouds the picture. Your coin must look spectacular in the hand, congratulations!

Gary

[Lucky One]

Nice looking coin but I try to avoid small light spots because they could indicate a dipping. Dipped coins, when not rinsed and dried properly, will begin re-toning that way, and they will continue to tone back the way they were, again, if the dipping wasn't performed properly.

 

The real reason I'm putting my two cents in is because I agree with Rick & Mr. Herrmann- eye appeal is much more important than grade or condition imho. What I don't understand is why anyone would buy an ugly or even moderately unattractive darkly toned, splotched or streaked coin in any high grade (MS64/above), it just doesn't make sense to buy something that should make you proud that looks so ugly.

 

Eye appeal is everything, it is what screams "I'M QUALITY, BUY ME!". One other thing I'd like to point out- in the old days of slabbing, it was understood in the hobby that a coin had to have a full or nearly full strike to grade at the gem level (MS65/above 'investment qual') I recently saw a MS67 seated coin with such a weak strike that nearly half of the detail was washed out and flat. Outstanding otherwise, but not a true investment quality coin by any standards I've known over the 51 years I've been collecting.

 

When I started buying serious coins back in the early 1980's, I loved buying from David Bowers. When slabs came out, I followed his advice and bought only the nicest looking coins no matter what the grade. He was also a stickler for full strikes in MS65 slabs and I never forgot that. His advice has paid off for a lifetime- I rarely have a problem getting my $$$ back out of a coin. Trust him...

 

[Lucky One]

I love it when coins speak! I am of the opinion that eye appeal in a coin trumps grade. In fact, sometimes we miss the coins we really like when grade clouds the picture. Your coin must look spectacular in the hand, congratulations!

Gary

 

agree 110%! I passed on a MS65 half cent at a super bargain price to buy a MS64 at just a little less because the MS64 had super luster and great eye appeal. If collectors would follow one simple rule- *buy the coin, not the slab*, there would be a lot more happy collectors. (and a whole lot of unhappy coin dealers with unattractive coins in their inventories too I guess)

[Walkerfan]

Nice looking coin but I try to avoid small light spots because they could indicate a dipping. Dipped coins, when not rinsed and dried properly, will begin re-toning that way, and they will continue to tone back the way they were, again, if the dipping wasn't performed properly.

 

Thanks, for the comments. Small areas of toning are no big deal---I'd rather have that than a dipped-out, dull, bone-white coin. That's what happens when you go 100% white---you compromise on luster, b/c of over-dipping to get rid of every little bit of toning. This coin is solid with no 'active' areas and has great luster.

[Lucky One]

Thanks, for the comments. Small areas of toning don't bother me---I'd rather have that than a dipped-out, dull, bone-white coin. That's what happens when you go 100% white---you compromise on luster, b/c of over-dipping to get rid of every little bit of toning. This coin is solid with no 'active' areas and has great luster.

 

I remember in the old days watching dealers dip coins from bags and rolls. I would guess I watched a half dozen old pros dipping coins over a ten year span in my early years in the hobby. I was taught to dilute the dip solution one to one for 30 seconds or less for light toning and if that didn't remove it, go to full strength but for a very short period, 15 seconds or less. Heavy dark toning is almost impossible to remove and to get a coin like that white it takes a lot of surface removal, leaving those dull white pieces of trash that we all hate. While you are correct and the dipping solution works by removing the oxidized layer, that layer was trash anyway, and when done properly a coin can be dipped more than once without any discernable difference in luster. I've studied dipped coins under a microscope and you are correct- you can see the difference between original luster and an over-dipped washed out coin and it is serious. While I would never recommend an amateur or inexperienced person dipping their coins, I would recommend a conservation service to do it for them if the underlying luster was strong and blazing but the toning wasn't attractive. I'd rather have a beautifully toned piece but there's nothing like a brilliant mint-white silver coin if the luster is robust.