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what is this worth 1963 PCGS PR68DCAM Roosevelt

20 posts in this topic

I am still confused between the difference of proof, cam, mint, prooflike etc. The way I looked up this coin in PCGS price guide and Numismedia online FMV price guide it looked like the value was about $40.00. If I am looking these coins up correctly.

Anyway it says there are "milk like" spots but was still graded as stated above. What do all of you think?

 

 

here

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I think the haze gives it negative eye appeal and if this were me considering bidding on this coin I would ask myself if I really wanted to either own or give as a present a problem coin.

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So the grading doesn't matter in this case as much as the spots, right?

What is lowest to best

proof, cameo, mint, proof like, uncirculated. Did I tell you today that you were the greatest flowerred.gif and I didnt bid on that dime but I am trying to find graded ( that is the same as slabbed right) coins instead of the raw ( that means circulated right). Hey I am trying to learn thumbsup2.gif

 

Oh BTW, did you notice how the 1858\1868 post changed to a joking place? gossip.gif I wonder if they even realize we lost all value of the pro's and cons of the 2 or 3 cent piece? Or what to look for or not look for. It is actually funny if you go back and look.

Have a wonderful day Tom

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Lowest to Highest for circulated coins would be Poor1, Fair 2, About Good 3, Good 4, VG 8, Very Good 10, Fine 12, Very Fine 20, Very Fine 30, Extremely Fine 40, Extremly Fine 45, About Uncirculated 50, Uncirculated 53, Uncirculated 55, Uncirculated 58.

 

The MS or Mint State grades that refer to coins with no wear are MS60-MS70, so the highest graded Business Strike coin would be MS70.

 

Proof is not a grade by rather a mining process. Instead of a normal die being used to stike the coin once for circulation, a special polished die is used and the coin is struck at least twice, which is what give's it the mirror like surfaces and full detail. Proof coins are made for collectors and not for nnormal circulation, but the grades above still stand, but you would see a PR in front of the grade even if it did find it's way into circulation.

 

When the proof dies are first used the coins display a nice contrast between the divices (objects or features on the coin like Liberty head etc) and the fields (background surface of the coin). So coins that are the first to be minted typically can be given the DC (Deep Cameo) after the grade. As the surface of the proof die begin to wear, the coins minted start to loose some of the contrast and become just (Cameo) coins.

 

As for Prooflike (PL), and Deep Mirrored Proof Like (DMPL) these designation refer to Business stike coins and not the Proof coins created for collectors. Again, when a business strike coin is struck from either a new die or a die that has been polished to remove flaws, it can have mirrored surfaces similar to a prood coin, but without the cameo contrast. The only exception would be the SMS coins from the 60's which I believe were stuck more than once and probably from different dies. These are the only non proof coins that can receive the Cameo designation as far as I am aware.

 

Slabbed refers to coins that have been graded and encapsulated by a third Party grading service. The most popular and reliable services are PCGS, NGC and ANACS so most folks stick with those to insure they are getting what they are paying for.

 

Raw does not mean circulated as a Mint state coin could be raw, it simply means that the coin has not been graded and encapsulated.

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Hey! I am so glad to hear from you. I posted a general question somewhere asking if you and your family were alright. We got hit all night last night with just the outer bands that snapped trees in half like they were sticks.

 

Anyway this will be another I add to my lessons file. Just a question about collecting. Do collectors prefer proofs to mints you said "Proof coins are made for collectors and not for nnormal circulation" Can you get a proof of older coins, or when did they start making proofs? I am back to that blasted 2 or 3 cent piece. I saw a bronze colored one and I would like to know how older coins like the mid 1800's can have a grading or how high a grading is possible? As for that matter I am noticing the coins that are older and toned ( beautiful colors) are more eye appealing to me then the new shiny ones. I just like old stuff i guess.

I digress Do you know how anyone else made it through the storm and Dear God Ivan is on the way now.

You rule Kryptonite headbang.gif

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Oh BTW, did you notice how the 1858\1868 post changed to a joking place?

 

Melanie,

 

My apologies for that. No disrespect intended; was just trying to welcome you into this online community.

 

Regards,

 

EVP

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Oh BTW, did you notice how the 1858\1868 post changed to a joking place?

 

Melanie,

 

My apologies for that. No disrespect intended; was just trying to welcome you into this online community.

 

Regards,

 

EVP

 

Likewise. We sometimes like to joke around here a bit to brighten to mood. grin.gif

 

Hoot

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Likewise. We sometimes like to joke around here a bit to brighten to mood. grin.gif

 

Bah! I've never participated in any such thing here. I resemble that remark! 893whatthe.gif

 

jom

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jom,

 

I love the buffaloes in you signature line. Man, what gorgeous lustre and toning. You are definitely a man with taste! (and I don't say that lightly).

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melmcbee,

 

Yes the family and I are fine....some damage but others got hit much worse.....

 

 

Do collectors prefer proofs to mints you said "Proof coins are made for collectors and not for normal circulation"

 

That depends on the collector. I prefer business strike coins due to a cost perspective most of the time. I typically don't have the cash for older proofs so I stick with business strikes thumbsup2.gif

 

 

Can you get a proof of older coins, or when did they start making proofs?

 

I don't know the first year right off hand, but I would say early 1800's, maybe 1820's or 1830's...other will know for sure. Obviously the mintages on those early proofs is very low making them very valuable today in almost all cases..............but spectacular!!!

 

 

I saw a bronze colored one and I would like to know how older coins like the mid 1800's can have a grading or how high a grading is possible?

 

The grading scale does not change for older coins so in theory, you could have a MS70 or Proof 70 coin from the late 1700's or early 1800's, but that really isnt reality. I have seen some MS69 and Proof 69 coins from the 1800's that are worth small fortunes, but there are rare with a capital "R"!!! 893whatthe.gif

 

As for colorful toning, yes their are a lot of collectors out their paying a large premium for colorful coins with nice eye appeal. Some prefer blast white or untoned coins....just be careful if you buy a raw toned coin, becuase AT or Artificial toning is very common in the hobby today.

 

Artificialy toning can be done by heating up a coin, or baking it in the oven inside a potato, or even buy using a q-tip to rub certain chemicals on the surface of the coin to produce colors. It's not easy to spot for a beginner so prior to bidding on toned coins on Ebay, you might want to post the auction here so we can provide advice. 893applaud-thumb.gif

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No apologies needed, it did make me feel welcome and accepted. I was joking and wondering if any of the later posters knew we were talking about 2 or 3 cent pieces. I thought it was funny and a delight ti belong to this forum. headbang.gifgrin.gif

 

Krytonitecomics, ( how can I shorten that so you want be offended.), I will continue to post the auctions I am looking at as long as someone tells me it is not too bothersome and what is the correct forum to post in. I am glad you and yours are alright.

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Krypto, Shane, big "K"....really anything you want is fine by me....I am not easily offended thumbsup2.gif

 

 

I know it's strange to talk coins with a guy with a Comic book title, but I assure you my collecting knowledge and preferences extend far beyond coins and Comic books 893applaud-thumb.gif

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I never doubted your intelligence at all acclaim.gif I have appreciated and save most of the info you gave me to my favorites folder titled coin lessons. I just wanted a shorter version to call you. I will be cleaning the mess in my yard for weeks I hope you and yours faired well. I was real concern since you have already been in charlies path. I hope frances was better to you. Maybe ivan will just go away 893censored-thumb.gif893frustrated.gif

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No apologies needed, it did make me feel welcome and accepted. I was joking and wondering if any of the later posters knew we were talking about 2 or 3 cent pieces. I thought it was funny and a delight ti belong to this forum. headbang.gifgrin.gif

 

I'd throw in my 2 cents but so far I'm not collecting them except in proof sets. laugh.gif

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From what little I know, the value is about $30 without the haze but because its in a green older PCGS holder would go for $40. Problem is PCGS won't reslab after its washed and reuse the green tag. The real question is does it have a shot at PR69?

Or better Cameo to Deep Cameo worth perhaps $200 to $300? ( About one in five in the series I collect have upgraded for me in older green because PCGS used to be too conservative)

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If you don't know the difference between raw and circulated do not fear. Collectors with vast knowledge continue to buy raw, ungraded coins on E-bay and only post it the rare times they don"t get ripped off! You got it right---only graded NGC and PCGS coins from dealers with a return policy. That's ALL you must know. NEVER UNGRADED OR NON NGC/PCGS COINS ON EBAY!!! NEVER EVER EVER. Ever looked at Tuesday Internet sales at www.heritagecoins.com for if nothing else price history on your collection/ series? Sign up free & you can see the photos of the difference in prooflike vs proof vs Proof , etc. And price histories backthrough the 1990's for millions of coins. Hope thind are getting organized there. Good Luck. MN

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