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wayte raymond 1930's coin albums what do you think of them?

8 posts in this topic

wayte promoted the albums to sell coins to collectors to put into albums which made then buy monthly over many years to fill the album slots

 

good for coin collecting cloud9.gif

good for wayte raymond flowerred.gif

 

producing a few greatly toned coins devil.gif

 

what do you think?

 

 

michael

 

 

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I dig them!!!

 

And they will still tone coins....

 

 

This notion that the sulphur in them has been all used up, didn't seem right to me...

 

I put something to the test....

 

I had some friends at my former employer test a piece of cardboard from a 51 mint set I broke up, test it for sulphur levels....

 

the coins in this set were toned, and toned dark and kind of ugly...

 

the cardboard still had a high sulphur count....

 

I don't buy the "sulphur is used up" routine....

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The idea that the sulphur is all used up or not is not the only determining factor in toning of coins in Waite Raymond boards. I have a set of proof jeffersons that were put away in the early 70's and they have toned little. The sulphur in these boards is activated by improper storage. If the WR boards are old and properly stored, the moisture has evaporated from the cardboard and the sulphur has nothing to react with. It would take some outside force to re-activate the chemicals in the cardboard to get a strong reaction to tone the coins. High humidity would be a good choice to get the sulphur to react. Many factors have to be just right to get beautiful toning or all you get is ugly, splotchy toning.

 

When cardboard is new it has a high moisture content. That causes the sulphur to react producing the gases necessary to tone a coin. If anyone has a way to put the moisture back in the cardboard as it was when manufactured and the enviroment they were stored in, then you could expect similar toning. If not, it's a crapshoot as to wether you will get toning expected.

 

Many other factors also affect the toning process but chemical content, heat and moisture are the most important ones.

 

ALL toned coins are artficially toned. The terms used, AT or NT, is used to identify the speed of the process and the method used. The toning of any coin is the result of the outside forces applied to it. Wether it be improper storage or or deliberately creating the conditions in a confined and controlled enviroment.

 

The desire to have colored toning on coins is relatively new to coin collecting. Many if not all collectors from the early years wanted nice white coins and kept them that way. Even up thru the 70's when the GSA sold the CC dollars. They considered a toned coin as tarnished and offered them at a discount. I know, I bought some.

 

If enough dealers hype the attributes of a tarnished coin that was sold at a reduced price a few years ago can now get high prices, that is what they are going to do. Same can be said for the Registry clamor. It's all a marketing ploy to get competion among those who play to generate more capital. It activates the competitive nature in us.

 

I am not against the Registry of collections. I just choose not to play.

 

I am not against toned coins either. I just don't see the exorbitant prices being paid by some in this hobby for colored coins. The eye of the beholder I guess.That's why the painted eagles and the painted state quarters have a demand.

 

These are my opinions and I'm not trying to influence anyone to one way or the other. Collect what YOU like and don't let anyone else dictate what YOU ought to collect. It's a hobby. It's suppose to be fun and relaxing.

 

Nuff ramblings,

 

Have a good day, Gary

 

 

 

 

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i don't want to get into this again, but suffice to say, I find many errors and problems with whats said above.....

 

I'll just simply disagree with some of the 'chemistry' in the above post.

 

activate the sulphur? reactivate the chemicals?

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I dig them!!!

 

And they will still tone coins....

 

 

This notion that the sulphur in them has been all used up, didn't seem right to me...

 

I put something to the test....

 

I had some friends at my former employer test a piece of cardboard from a 51 mint set I broke up, test it for sulphur levels....

 

the coins in this set were toned, and toned dark and kind of ugly...

 

the cardboard still had a high sulphur count....

 

I don't buy the "sulphur is used up" routine....

****************************************************

 

as per the above i agree with lucy 893applaud-thumb.gif

 

 

 

 

 

but again being a small crazy collector WHAT DO I KNOW 893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif?>??????

 

i have only been doing this the last 40 years or so

27_laughing.gif27_laughing.gif27_laughing.gif27_laughing.gif27_laughing.gif27_laughing.gif27_laughing.gif...........

 

 

 

michael

 

 

 

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The idea that the sulphur is all used up or not is not the only determining factor in toning of coins in Waite Raymond boards. I have a set of proof jeffersons that were put away in the early 70's and they have toned little. The sulphur in these boards is activated by improper storage. If the WR boards are old and properly stored, the moisture has evaporated from the cardboard and the sulphur has nothing to react with. It would take some outside force to re-activate the chemicals in the cardboard to get a strong reaction to tone the coins. High humidity would be a good choice to get the sulphur to react. Many factors have to be just right to get beautiful toning or all you get is ugly, splotchy toning.

 

When cardboard is new it has a high moisture content. That causes the sulphur to react producing the gases necessary to tone a coin. If anyone has a way to put the moisture back in the cardboard as it was when manufactured and the enviroment they were stored in, then you could expect similar toning. If not, it's a crapshoot as to wether you will get toning expected.

 

Many other factors also affect the toning process but chemical content, heat and moisture are the most important ones.

 

ALL toned coins are artficially toned. The terms used, AT or NT, is used to identify the speed of the process and the method used. The toning of any coin is the result of the outside forces applied to it. Wether it be improper storage or or deliberately creating the conditions in a confined and controlled enviroment.[/quoe]

 

The desire to have colored toning on coins is relatively new to coin collecting. Many if not all collectors from the early years wanted nice white coins and kept them that way. Even up thru the 70's when the GSA sold the CC dollars. They considered a toned coin as tarnished and offered them at a discount. I know, I bought some.

 

If enough dealers hype the attributes of a tarnished coin that was sold at a reduced price a few years ago can now get high prices, that is what they are going to do. Same can be said for the Registry clamor. It's all a marketing ploy to get competion among those who play to generate more capital. It activates the competitive nature in us.

 

I am not against the Registry of collections. I just choose not to play.

 

I am not against toned coins either. I just don't see the exorbitant prices being paid by some in this hobby for colored coins. The eye of the beholder I guess.That's why the painted eagles and the painted state quarters have a demand.

 

These are my opinions and I'm not trying to influence anyone to one way or the other. Collect what YOU like and don't let anyone else dictate what YOU ought to collect. It's a hobby. It's suppose to be fun and relaxing.

 

Nuff ramblings,

 

Have a good day, Gary

 

 

 

 

As Lucy stated, I also have a few differences of opinions here. All toned coins are NOT AT! The term AT is reserved for coins that are toned in an un-natural way...not by natural causes. For example, placing a coin in an oven is AT, placing a coin in a Kraft envelope is NT!

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I have been putting theory to the test for the past two months. I have an original, unused Wayte-Raymond album for Walking Liberty half dollars manufactured in 1938. I have two dozen uncirculated Walkers contained within and dangling by a string over a wood stove. For the first month I just had it over the stove w/o added moisture, then, a month ago, I started keeping a cup of water on the stove underneath the album. I was curious, so I opened the album today and did not notice any visable toning whatsoever. Obviously, not enough time has passed to produce any noticable results.

 

Personally, I have no problem with this. I do not feel that it crosses the line. I view it more as wishing to naturally accelerate sightly toning vs. doctoring.

 

I still have my fingers crossed. I'll keep you all posted if anything does happen.

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