Selling my Dad's coin collection, some questions, please:)

[skypinkblu]

Hi, and thanks in advance for any help:) I'm usually on the comics board, and some fellow boarders, suggested that this would be the right place to ask some questions. I have an accumulation of coins that my father left me quite some time ago, they have been sitting and I've finally decided to sell them.

 

I've done a little reading (some great information posts here, thank you!)...but I'm still very new at this.

 

I first went through the proof sets and I realize most are not worth very much, I plan to list them in a lot, but there were a few I had questions about, and I was hoping for some help.

 

I have 4, 1979 proof sets, this one looks different, is this a type 2, clear S?

 

 

[skypinkblu]

I didn't really understand the price guide on these, would this be considered low grade because of the "rainbow"? and do you need to grade the ones in the Mint Holders?

If so, would this only be worth $4? if so, I guess I should hold them and melt them?

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[skypinkblu]

Then my last question for now...this red mark looks like it's on the coin, in the holder, is that an "error" or a bad thing? This one looked like that clear "s" too...Yes, I did try shaking it,

 

 

[bsshog40]

It looks type2 to me. The type1 is usually more of a blobbed S. The type1 also kind of looks like it was placed on the coin after it was minted. It's like an S with a square block surrounding it, if that makes any sense.

Added: the red looks like part of the red cardboard fiber just stuck in there.

Added: I'm not sure where I'm falling into these posts. That rainbow looks like some sort of hazing to me. Sometimes it can be dipped off, but most times it will not come off. I think the TPG's will downgrade for hazing, if that's what it is.

[skypinkblu]

Yes, it does, thank you:) I have to look at the other ones again, they all might be type 2, they came at the same time. I did find an interesting link, but I'm not sure of myself and don't want to mislead anyone.

 

http://www.smalldollars.com/dollar/page29.html

[bsshog40]

Here is a better link. The SBA you are looking at in your link is for the Uncirculated SBA. This link will help you better.

Sorry, I didn't scroll all the way down at your link. Both are correct.

[skypinkblu]

(thumbs u

Thanks so much! I am trying to do this slowly, I'll go through them again, that is more helpful.

 

Is this the right place to ask about $2 bills and Silver Certificates as well?

 

Sharon

[bsshog40]

You will probably get more responses in the "paper money" forum for those.

[skypinkblu]

Thanks, I need to look for that.The help is much appreciated:)

[skypinkblu]

I also have these two sets, one is from 1954 and one from 1955, I was wondering if they were flat proof sets? and if so, if the black rim on one coin is damage? If so, what percent of FMV would be expected? or how would I describe them?

 

Thanks again:)

[Coindude]

Those colors are pretty standard on proof sets. I think you might get around 80 for the 54 and the 55, probably the same. What people, like me who collect these, look for are pristine coins, rainbow colors, or cameo coins. Unfortunately it doesn't look like there are any in the sets you have pictured.

[skypinkblu]

Thanks:) It's OK, I realize they aren't worth a fortune, I thought my daughter would want them, but she's not interested and since she's getting married, I'd just let a collector of coins have them and give her the money. I appreciate the help:)

 

I have these as well...I'm really just starting...I have a few shoe boxes full of stuff, these are the easiest:)

 

 

[jtryka]

Those proof sets are neat, but it's so hard to tell from photos. What collectors really look for in these late 50s and early 60s proof sets are cameo proofs, where the image of Franklin, Washington, etc, are white and frosty but the fields or backgrounds are mirror like creating what looks like a cameo. The 1956 half you picture looks like it, but it's so hard to tell from the photo. If you look at the look of your 1979 proofs, that is what I am talking about. As for notes, post them in the paper money forum, we'd be happy to opine! As always, photos make it easier but not foolproof!

[BillJones]

You have posed a number of questions, and I'll try to give you some general and some specific answers.

 

- The mint mark on your 1979 SBA dollar is the “clear variety” for that year. The complete Proof set with the clear mint market has a Gray Sheet bid of $70.

 

- The toning on the 1974-S 40% silver Proof Eisenhower dollar in typical for the issue. After a while, these coins in the original government holders tended to tone like this. For most collectors I don’t think that this is good thing. You can find coins have not toned like this, but you have to hunt of them. The Gray Sheet bid is $9.50, but I think you will only get $5 or $6.

 

- The red fragment on the 1981-S JFK dollar is from the holder, and it’s not a plus. As for the mint mark, the picture is too small to really tell, but from what I see, it is not the clear S variety. In 1981, the “normal” mint mark looked like the 1979 “clear variety.” The type 2 “clear variety” had a very sharp mint mark. Gray Sheet bid is $5 for the normal mint mark and $255 for the sharp mint mark set.

 

- The 1954 and ’55 Proof sets are the box set packaging variety. In mid 1954 the mint changed from cellophane to plastic holders for the coins. The plastic was used for all of the 1955 box sets. Unfortunately the plastic caused the coins to tone. The toning is usually dark black or brown and unattractive and the toning does not dip off very well. Your coins are actually fairly nice and above average when it comes to the toning, but they are not outstanding. The Gray Sheet bids are $90 each for both sets.

 

- None of the coins that I see in your 1956 through ’63 flat pack sets appear be cameo Proofs. As such they are not worth a great deal. If you have them, keep the original brown envelops with the sets. They are much easier to sell that way. Here are the Gray Sheet bids: ’56 - $54, ’57 - $20, ’58 - $43.50, ’59 - $20, ’60 large date cent - $16.50, ’60 small date cent $26.25, ’61 & ’62 - $12.50, ’63 - $ 12.75 and ’64 - $ 12.75.

 

- Generally dealers pay 10 to 15 percent below bid for Proof sets that contain no cameo coins. Cameo coins must have the cameo on both sides to qualify as something special. The reason for the low prices is that these sets are not the popular and most collectors won’t pay any more than bid for them.

 

I hope this helps.

 

[skypinkblu]

Thank you VERY much, Bill, I sent you a PM, as well. I have 3 more of the 1979 proofs, so I'm going to check the dates on those as well.

The time everyone has taken to answer here, is VERY much appreciated.This way if I list them as lots on Ebay, at least I have a clue:)

If I can ever be of help with comics, please let me know:)

 

Right now, I'm trying to figure out what to do with about 75lbs of wheat pennies, ...

Sharon

[RareSov]

someone will buy just to search em. Its amazing what can be done with a few people in a few hours, just looking for a few dates. What could be found, wheat people ? no idea myself

 

If I had the chance, why miss it.. search then sell in a bunch of bulk lots

 

For some real fun, organise multiple near complete date sets as well, you may have em ?

[Comicdey]

Sharon

 

Everyone loves searching wheaties

 

Perfect rainy day fun for the kids

 

 

[jonthecoinjunky]

The 54/ 55 flat pack proofsets appear to be toning up due to exposure to the elements. It should not affect the too much since they show it is a nice original proof set. The price might be slightly less, but it is still a nice proof set.

 

As for your 74 Ike, the toning looks nice on it. It should command a slight premium although not an outrageous premium. It is not uncomon to see the silver Ikes tone up like that. Looks nice, adds eye appeal to your coin.