Mulling over an idea for a "collection"...

[texasrichard]

I've been working primarly on two different fronts.... an 1853 year set and an MS Toned Commem set.

 

Just trying to tackle these two things has really put a drain on my "fun money" so it gets slow going at times, but I keep chugging away when I can.

 

On the 1853 year set I've been lucky enough to upgrade several of the coins several times which left me with a bunch of duplicates. I've been selling these off and on, but then another thought occured to me and I'm wondering if anyone has every done such a thing.

 

What would you think of the idea of an individual collector who put together their very own "grading set" ?

 

Perhaps say I pick a particular coin.... The 1853 "P" quarter A&R and then decide on a TPG.. say NGC. Then work to put together an example of every possible slabbed NGC grade of that particular coin.

 

I haven't thought this out real well it was more of a brain storm when I was looking at some of my coins where I happened to have the same coin in 3 different slabbed grades.

 

Regardless of the "coin" has this been done by anyone other than the TPG's ?

 

What would be good candidate coins for such a project that wouldn't financially kill an individual collector with limited means ?

 

Just tossing it out there to see what you think ?

 

Thanks.

 

[jesbroken]

MS and Proof(if made for that particular year) would be a nightmare. Maybe a Circulated Set would be fun.At least it is a new idea TR. (thumbs u

Jim

[Dwaine]

That is an interesting sugesstion. Not something that I have seen done or heard before.

 

[TomB]

Since you asked...I think it sounds like a waste of resources more than anything else.

[physics-fan3.14]

I recall seeing something like this at a FUN display one year. The guy had 1921 Peace dollars in every single grade from PO-1 to MS-66 in NGC and PCGS (two complete sets). It was a really cool set, definitely something that creates a really cool display.

[texasrichard]

Since you asked...I think it sounds like a waste of resources more than anything else.

 

Tom,

 

Do you mean as far as tieing up the money, and/or not have it gain in value ?

 

Just trying to understand your viewpoint...

 

Thx.

Richard

[Oldtrader3]

In my case, I would feel that I was tying up money that could be used for other collecting projects. I don't have enough coin buying funds as is.

[BankNote1]

You guys need to try buying coins on S.S. disability!

I have seen a 1903-O Morgan dollar grading set on display! I think it is a neat idea.

[CarlWohlforth]

I have a friend who keeps buying coins from his birth year. He also sends raw ones in. When he realized he had a handful of grades for that date (in the 1940s) he decided to get a few grades he didn't have so ended up with a grading set.

 

It could be helpful if you specialize on a wide range of grades in one series. Unless you are specializing in a very modern series it could tie up a lot of money. You would probably like the higher grade coins best. The nicest looking coin might also be the best investment. So the lower grade coins might tie up money in a bad investment.

 

If you put together a set of Morgan Dollars where you try for each coin to be the same price you could end up with an example of almost every grade. If you wanted to get as many different date/mm Morgans as possible at $100 each you could end up with most grades from G up to MS 65. It is instructive to see them lined up in order of grade.

[Coin]

Richard ,

I made a 1941-D mint grading set of NGC graded nickels from , MS 64 , MS65 , 65 5FS , 66 , 66 5FS , 67 5FS ....then made another set with different dates to represent nickels from the 50's in the same grades . I haven't bothered with the newer nickels as most grade out high , and the only difference in the two sets was to help me see the difference from where the mint modified dies in different times .

 

Of course I only made the one year '41-D set as a fluke from having the different grades on hand . I did this a few years ago as I was starting the hunt for FS nickels

and going through rolls and rolls , and trying to understand NGC's grading better .

 

I'm curious as to why you would want it done for an 1853 year ...other than cost ....what purpose would a grading set be used for in that particular year unless you just find it fun to put a set like that together and need a challenge? Sounds like it'd be interesting ( not for me....I'd be pulling out what's left of my hair )...is there a reason outside of fun , that you are considering this task for besides the fact that you already have most of them?

[texasrichard]

The 1853 is just a year in my head as I have a lot of them already but the truth be told I doubt I could afford it. The type collectors keep this year driven up pricewise as it is IMO.

 

The idea would just be a fun project which is how I try to collect right now.

 

I'd have to do some studying first to find a good potential coin to do it with... maybe something like a 1938-D Buffalo Nickel. There's lots of them and they're not overly costly except for the highest level.

 

I don't know I was just thinking out loud. Thanks for the comments.

[TomB]

My comment is based upon three points.

 

The first point is that you acknowledge that you do not have unlimited funds, which means to me that if you attempt to build a set like this that you may sink quite a few dollars into the same coin in different grades. This means that when you do find a coin that you must have, you may end up having quite a bit of your otherwise available funds tied up into this venture.

 

Additionally, the grade for any coin is a composite score of various attributes including number, placement and depth of marks; eye appeal; wear; luster (if applicable) and strike, as well as possible silent net grading, which means that a coin with a simple grade such as VF25 might not look any different or any worse than a coin with a simple grade such as VF30 or VF35. You would need to obtain coins fairly evenly matched in various attributes in order to really have a solid idea about the grading scale. Of course, all of this is predicated on the grading scale being consistent and reproducible, which is not always the case.

 

Lastly, even if you manage to build a perfectly matched grading scale for a coin, it is not likely to tell you much about grading other series, other metals and other eras.

 

For my money, the best grading scale is experience in looking at a large number of coins in-hand along with the ANA Grading Guide.

[texasrichard]

My comment is based upon three points.

 

The first point is that you acknowledge that you do not have unlimited funds, which means to me that if you attempt to build a set like this that you may sink quite a few dollars into the same coin in different grades. This means that when you do find a coin that you must have, you may end up having quite a bit of your otherwise available funds tied up into this venture.

 

Additionally, the grade for any coin is a composite score of various attributes including number, placement and depth of marks; eye appeal; wear; luster (if applicable) and strike, as well as possible silent net grading, which means that a coin with a simple grade such as VF25 might not look any different or any worse than a coin with a simple grade such as VF30 or VF35. You would need to obtain coins fairly evenly matched in various attributes in order to really have a solid idea about the grading scale. Of course, all of this is predicated on the grading scale being consistent and reproducible, which is not always the case.

 

Lastly, even if you manage to build a perfectly matched grading scale for a coin, it is not likely to tell you much about grading other series, other metals and other eras.

 

For my money, the best grading scale is experience in looking at a large number of coins in-hand along with the ANA Grading Guide.

 

Tom,

 

Hope you realize how much I do respect your posts and opinions thus the reason I asked.

 

Your point #1 is certainly valid. Limited funds as well as the "desire" that there would be to fill a number and maybe paying up for it. I admit right now that (and I don't mean any offense by this to the dealers) there have been times when I ask a dealer about an 1853 that they have in stock and have been told something like... "oh, your the guy that has the 1853 set" and it makes me wonder if that impacts the price it might be offered at. But I will say that other dealers I'm sure have given me a break on the price because of the same reason. Probably all works out.

 

Your Points #2 and #3 are also of course accurate and cannot be challenged.

 

I appreciate you taking the time to share. Like I said it was just a passing thought. It would probably still be a neat thing to see all laid out in order though.

 

Thanks.

 

 

[James_OldeTowne]

Over the years, I have encountered several customers performing similar projects. The most memorable was a grading set of 1893-S Morgan dollars from Fair up through AU-58, hitting every single grade increment. I have also seen a clever Columbian half-dollar grading double-set, having one of each of the two dates.

 

I like the idea very much. I would experiment with something common enough, yet old enough to actually have worn coins. In other words, a SBA set would be a terrible example, but a set of (say) 1936 Walkers would be terrific. You'll be able to find low grade coins, yet the high-grade coins will be affordable.

 

I would not do it with certified coins at all, though. You're looking at about twenty coins, which would fit perfectly in a sheet of 2x2s (or better yet, Eagle holders).

 

I say: Go for it!

[prudden]

You guys need to try buying coins on S.S. disability!

I have seen a 1903-O Morgan dollar grading set on display! I think it is a neat idea.

 

Amen.Brother. Lots and lots of searching for the right price!!

[michael]

i would buy first year of issue coins from the 19 century and early 20th century

 

and if you cant affrord the first year of issue then do the last year of issue

 

 

[World Colonial]

I agree with Tom as well. I would never do it. Aside from lack of interest, I need every Dollar in my collection budget to buy the other coins I need to complete my sets. The only exception I make are duplicates for scarce coins in my series that I can buy cheap for speculative purposes.

[BillJones]

Perhaps say I pick a particular coin.... The 1853 "P" quarter A&R and then decide on a TPG.. say NGC. Then work to put together an example of every possible slabbed NGC grade of that particular coin.

 

I'll warn you right now that just finding ONE 1853 arrows and rays quarter in any Mint State grade is real bear. I ended up buying one in NGC MS-61 and had to pay more than the catalog quotes to get it. You will spend a barrel of money and go through a lot of frustration because the supply of these coins in the market is really thin right now.

 

BTW here is the coin.

 

[texasrichard]

Perhaps say I pick a particular coin.... The 1853 "P" quarter A&R and then decide on a TPG.. say NGC. Then work to put together an example of every possible slabbed NGC grade of that particular coin.

 

I'll warn you right now that just finding ONE 1853 arrows and rays quarter in any Mint State grade is real bear. I ended up buying one in NGC MS-61 and had to pay more than the catalog quotes to get it. You will spend a barrel of money and go through a lot of frustration because the supply of these coins in the market is really thin right now.

 

BTW here is the coin.

 

 

Bill... the '53 Quarter was a bad example for me as I know I couldn't afford it, but I probably said it because I have 5 or 6 of them already but none in MS.

 

Your's looks great to me and I don't see why it's only a 61 ?