Conder101

Unless you have a barcode reader app on your phone which will take you to the NGC verification page. You can get the app on google play or the Apple App Store. If you go here https://www.ngccoin.com/resources/ngc-app/ you will find direct links on the stores to the NGC App.

There are at least a couple of 2007 Sac dollars with the president dollar edge but they would not have stars on the edge. In 2007 and 2008 the President dollar edge was Date Mint E PLURIBUS UNUM IN GOD WE TRUST. In 2009 the motto IGWT was moved to the obv of the coin and was replaced with 13 stars. The NA dollar series that began in 2009 also had the 13 star edge. lettering.

This video will show the way they are made. In this case they are make a Sac dollar mule, but the same technique done with two coins of the same denomination would create a two sided coin.https://youtu.be/IXOXPZ0VKFM

I've seen a lot of three cent silvers that show die clashes. What has always struck me as odd is the dies were almost always rotated when they clashed. I will admit though that I haven't been checking to see whether the dies were rotated on the struck coin.

Another clue that I use is the INSIDE of the loops of the 8. On the large date the inside of the upper loop is just about the same size as the inside of the lower loop. On the small date the INSIDE of the upper loop is about HALF the size of the inside of the lower loop.

Looks like a grease strikethrough.

The mint tubes in the monster boxes do not have seals as far as I known. So if they do not arrive at the TPG in the still sealed 500 coin box with the correct serial number and/or the proper band around the box (each mint uses a different band) they will not get the coveted designation.

Looks like it took a hit from something moving left to right which caused a scrape across the top of the L's.

Personal preference from most to least Standing Liberty quarter Walking liberty half 1885 Morgan the Mercury dime 1889 Morgan

But there are also a LOT of fake world coins, Morgan and Peace dollars (as well as other coins) made in China and a LOT of fake PCGS and NGC slabs as well. The US market is receiving a LOT af fake US coins in fake PCGS and fake NGC slabs coming from China. I would not be surprised if a lot of them are sold into the Chinese market as well. Just because it is slabbed doesn't mean it's real.

If you mean on the reverse at the edge above the first S in STATES, that is called damage.

Yes but not a very good test because the coin weight will have a +/- tolerance range, and most likely the slab weight will also have an unknown +/- tolerance weight range.

This is true, but mostly because for the most part no one else wants to really fool with them. Also remember that although NGC will slab ancients, they do NOT guarantee the authenticity on ancient coins that they slab. (at least the last time I looked at their guarantee.)

That last item is an aftermarket holder not government packaging so it doesn't mean anything. First Commemorative Mint is a private company and has nothing to do with the US Mint. They sell eith put together items and "sets" and us the First Commemorative Mint name to try and fool novice buyer into believeling the offering are some kind of official thing.

The only thing I see, and I can't be sure about it, is that it appears the top of the G on GOD may be broken which would indicate a chipped hub.

Yes it does show the results of a clashed die. The clashing make have been what caused the die to break, or the die may have already been broken when the clash occurred. Impossible to say which unless you were able to accumulate a lot of coins from the same die pair and then arrange them by die stage.

They will, we have all made mistakes and had to take losses occasionally. And it will happen to others again in the future. . Your tuition to the school of hard knocks.

Blame PCGS for the 1988 WAM confusion. When they certify a 1988 with the reverse hub of 89 (I forget the verity number) for some reason they put WAM on the label. This gets people thinking that the "Wide AM" is what makes it valuable and they go looking for 1988 cents with the Wide AM which of course they find since EVERY 1988 cent has a Wide AM.

I believe the doubling seen at the top of the date IS mechanical doubling. I think the actual DDO is seen as a notching and the bottom right base of the 1 and possibly the 7. The doubling t the top of the date id flat and shelflike and matches the doubling seen of the mintmark, which would not be doubled on a DDO.

Extra "V"???

These are so bold because that area of the is rather high on the obv die, and the letters of EDITH on the reverse die are raised not incuse as the lettering usually is. So those raised letters made STRONG contact with the obverse DIE.

I don't think there is anything special about it. It may be what some people call a "Black Beauty" that was the result of an unusually dark color to the alloy. I don't see anything that could be called a mint error. Ignore the odd appearance of the "rims", this is in a PCGS unsert of the soft silicone variety that often wraps over and hides the rims of the coin. The overwrap can make it look like damage of cudding on the "rims".

Q1 All 1856 were, in theory, struck as Proofs (Yes I know they weren't but the TPG's had so much trouble separating the Proofs from the Unc that they finally decided to just call ALL of them Proof.) So Net Proof-12 Details Graffiti means that it is a Proof, it has deliberate scratching of something on the surface (graffiti) and because of that if has had its grade reduced to that of a 12 grade coin (the net grade) Q2. As Sandon says I would also want to see a good image to be able to tell how bad the damage was so I could decide if the had reduced the grade enough or not enough. Q3. GC's bank is willing to accept checks and/or money orders from them.

Yes the holders will have a tolerance range. The question is what IS that range? No one knows. Then when you combine the tolerance ranges on both I seriously doubt you would be able to tell anything about authenticity of a coin based on weighing the coin in the holder unless the weight of the coin is SERIOUSLY off.

It appears to be your typical environmentally damaged coppernickel coin, but I an intrigued by your comment that it is magnetic. Coppernickel alloy nickels shouldn't be magnetic. Are you sure it is?