Might as well make this my first post.
My first love was/is photography, so I am very picky about this topic. Unless you’re going to dump a whole ton of money into your camera setup, you’re going to make sacrifices one way or the other. As far as the photography side, since I’m pretty useless RE scopes, to me it’s all about white balance and lens. A decent macro setup and a very rudimentary understanding of LR will get you good coin photos with practice. The main thing is calibrating the color on whatever screen you’re using. That way you know what you’re seeing, on your screen, is accurate. Does that mean that if someone else is viewing it with a warmer or cooler temperature setting will see it exactly the same way? No. But at least you’ll know that a properly calibrated screen will be projecting it the way you intended.
I’m a mildly unusual case since, as I said, I’m primarily a photographer. I’m using a 61mp camera with a 90mm dedicated macro, tripod, and all the bells and whistles. But I can get outrageously accurate and detailed photos, even when exported as the (massively) smaller JPEGs for general sharing. To put it in perspective, my basic RAW file for one side of a coin is 120~MB. Once exported it’s closer to 7MB. Still a frankly huge file in JPEG world, but nothing compared to what I see on my screen in native format. In RAW I can get just about as close, or closer, in on a coin surface as I could see with a 20x loupe, so at least a factor of 4 higher than the standard.
But, like I said, it’s all about the white balance (aka color balance). I can make a coin shine like the sun or I can make it dull as dirt. The goal, if one is being an honest and upstanding member of the community, is of course to make it look as close as humanly possible to the coin as it sits in your vision in person. Which sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Just adjust the balance in any basic editing program to have the screen reflect what your eye sees in person. Boom. 95% of the way to high quality and reputable coin photography. Otherwise it’s just increasing the detail through pixel density and lens quality.
I prefer ambient light as a base and just make the shutter as long as it takes to properly expose a coin side. Sometimes it’s 15-20 seconds. But I find that the color is most accurate that way without having to correct for artificial lighting.
In any case, this was way longer and more detailed than I intended and probably way off what OP’s original question was. But I fully believe high quality coin photography is a massive boon to everyone involved. A scan is nice, but a properly balanced incredibly high quality photo does everyone a load of good, especially when we know how it was graded. Every scratch, dent, discoloration, scuff, or whatever needs to be documented so we know precisely what we’re dealing with.