Walter Holmes

I usually don't purchase cleaned/chopmarked coins. Unfortunately, I was enticed to bid and won this 1874 Trade Dollar due to the pedigree. My research suggest the pedigree is some how connected with what the press labeled as Coingate in 2005, but I cannot connect the dots between the Noe companies and/or another party that created the pedigree. It's not about the value, it's about uncovering the truth of this pedigree. Would anyone have any thoughts or may direct me to any sources which will either corroborate the connection to the Noe coins or identify the source of the pedigree. Thanks

On the obverse of the Peace Dollar there is a noticeable flaw lower right neck and in the hair. Under 10x mag the scruffs on neck are actually matte finish. The line in hair is more like a liquid spill. Any thoughts as to the cause? Pressure pushed matte material onto profile? Poor planchette preparation during annealing process, improper cleaning or rinsing? This one has me scratching my head!

It’s a 2001 Rhode Island state quarter. Heavily worn, worth 25 cents.

The date is wrong for TH per https://www.melfisher.com/Library/AtochaCoin/Assayer.asp. I don’t know enough about these coins to state it is counterfeit. However, the above would force me to dig deeper.

From 1986 to 2022 the American Gold Eagle Proof DCAM / W mint mark all have the same price range of $3100 - $3600. The exception is the 2020 proof DCAM with a V75 privy for the anniversary of WWII. Mintage was limited to 1939. Value $12,000 - $20,000 Values are the same for original packaging and PR70 grades. If you send it in to be graded and it comes back PR69 you’ll lose $400-$500. The alternative proofs are 2021 Type 1 and 2021 Type2. These have limited mintages of 4404 and 5562 respectively. These might, no guarantee, have a better chance of increasing in value in the future. For the money of a proof in all years being the same except one I wonder if it’s more prudent to purchase a business strike bullion Eagle. At least that way, the pricing will rise and fall with the spot price of gold plus premium which is much less than a proof. Good luck.

I feel great!!!! LOL

Much to my surprise it was graded AU55. Not sure of the reason for this.

To all: I am pleasantly surprised that NGC has graded the 1910-S St Gaudens as AU55. I expected XF with a possible AU 50. Thank you for all the replies to my post.

Just received these pictures from NGC. I am wondering if the weight of the grade will be from the obverse or will the reverse condition influence the grade?

Thank you all for contributing to the discussion on this thread. After reviewing several resources and comments it appears that the coin is indeed an XF. However, based upon the discussion of gradeflation I have decided to submit this coin to NGC which arrived at their location today. Value is not necessarily different between XF and AU. Consider this a research project to assess NGC’s grade versus pictures in “Make the grade”. If you’re interested I will post the results on this thread.

I purchased this St Gaudens Double Eagle yesterday at a coin show. Not sure if I should send it in to be graded. Your thoughts. Dealer graded as XF.

I just picked this up at a show yesterday. I am wondering if it’s worth sending an XF in to NGC for grading.

There are what appear to be a mint errors known as Ren-Ten that are square shaped consecutive points on silver 50 Sen coins. They appear in three places: 1. Near the crown of the dragon head, 2. Near the rear claws, 3. Under the sunlight of the rising sun. Although accepted by collectors, I have not seen these acknowledged by NGC as an error. I have just begun researching and hoped someone may have additional information on the subject. Attached are 2 examples of these Ren-Ten.

I can’t feel the hologram, or the damage on the exterior of the slab.

This 1886 GB 6 pence is a very inexpensive coin graded AU58 . I purchased from Heritage Auctions, upon removing their label from the reverse I saw internal damage to the NGC holographic. The picture on NGC does not have similar damage. How does this occur?

I set up an account with Vault Box to purchase the series 1 set available today. I signed into the account just before 9:00am PT, at the hour I received a gateway error message. At 9:30 I was able to get on the site and place an order in my bag. At check out I learned it was sold out! This was a horrible experience and wanted you to know. Here’s their link and pics for your information. https://vaultbox.com. This may have been an interesting set to acquire, but future purchases are very unlikely in the future.

An individual I know residing in the United Arab Emirates wants to submit his US gold coins to NGC for grading. Would he submit to NGC/UK or is there another location for submission Could you provide an address and link that he can use? Thank you

Based upon my collection of gold quarter eagles I am inclined to think it is in the AU category based upon scratches in field and wear on high points such as the band on the headdress. Of course, it may be the picture that is not clear. Per pics 1911 is AU58, 1926 is MS63

@Moxie15, @Coinbuf, @VKurtB Many thanks for responding to my inquiry. Although I have never purchased one of the popular toned coins ( over priced with some being very ugly) the earth tones in this Victoria coin were irresistible. I’m quite certain my bid was too high, but the coin IMO with all its tarnish, toning, corrosion, etc is exquisite. My end game is to maintain and stabilize its current condition without further degradation. I also appreciate that some feel it is a nice coin. It is unlike any coin I have seen.

I obtained it last evening on Heritage Auctions. Can’t wait to receive it. Sounds like I should store it in a museum quality corrosion inhibitor bag to see if the patina will stabilize.

This 1900 veiled headed Victoria shilling was described as having anthracite and teal cabinet patina. I bought it because I liked the way the silver developed a natural change which appealed to me. My question: Will the coin continue to change in the slab, or will the “patina” protect it in its present condition?

I have looked at the 1933-D. MS66 has a slightly higher value than the 1939-D. This surprised me as the ‘33 has a higher mintage.