• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

GBrad

Member: Seasoned Veteran
  • Posts

    1,517
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Posts posted by GBrad

  1. On 1/23/2022 at 5:57 PM, Oldhoopster said:

    A pic will make all the difference.  Could be toning that's mistaken for rust, or the coin could have been in contact with iron and the rust stained the surface.  Until we can see the coin, everything is just speculation.

    I couldn't agree more with seeing a picture of the coin as you mentioned.  Your are absolutely correct about speculation.

  2. On 1/23/2022 at 2:20 PM, tj96 said:

    When you say rush, do you actually mean real rust?   I've never really seen an entire coin rusted.  We've seen a lot of coins here entirely corroded, which "I think" is different from rush.  I could be wrong though.   The only coin I've seen with real rust on it has been a 43 steel cent.

    Hey tj.  I was referring to another member's coin, @Chris Mikesh coin that he mentioned on this thread several replies earlier.  I was hoping he may respond here but unfortunately he hasn't.  

  3. On 1/22/2022 at 4:33 PM, Oldhoopster said:

    FYI

    Just to clarify.  40% silver coins have a 3 layer clad composition.  The outter layers are 80% Silver and 20% copper while the inner core is 21% silver 79% copper.

     

    Good info here Hoopster.  Thank you.  Just to set my thought processes straight here, if these proof coins do not contain any iron, and they only pure silver and copper even in the layer forms as you described, how could rust could happen if there's not any iron in the mix?  Especially if an entire coin has rusted.  To me that means it would have to contain a considerable amount of iron???  Thanks.

  4. On 1/23/2022 at 1:42 PM, Lem E said:

    Here’s a fun fact about your 1938 nickel. If you look at the obverse legends, they used a slightly different font. It’s easiest to tell by looking at the word LIBERTY. The 38 is the only one that uses this font and it was done at all 3 Mints. I made this little collage to help me see the differences. Congrats on the new pick ups. 

    52F27107-1746-414A-A7D7-7D0ED43755B1.jpeg

    And our resident Nickel expert chimes in and teaches us all (at least me) a really neat lesson.  Thanks Lem!!!! Much appreciated.  I love learning stuff like this!(thumbsu

  5. Those are definitely beautiful coins @J P Mashoke!  When I first saw the grade on your new 1938 FS addition I immediately thought, "Dang...... J P done gone and hit the lottery and didn't tell us....." (I guess I'm showing my ignorance here). My feeble mind immediately thought that a first year Jefferson, WITH Full Steps and being MS, would be worth a small fortune (we know you are a high roller flying under the radar J P... it's ok....:nyah:). Regardless, that is a gorgeous coin especially for its age.  Congrats on both pick-ups my friend!(thumbsu

  6. On 1/22/2022 at 1:19 PM, Chris Mikesh said:

    I also have a Kenedy (1969 S proof) that is rusting!  No, it's not magnetic, but it looks (through 10X magnification) like something was in the silver causing the corrosion. All I'm saying is, I have a curious Kennedy too.

    Yes Chris, I think @Mohawk has a great suggestion here.  I would personally love to see your Kennedy and what it looks like.  As opposed to posting it here on this member's thread, simply out of respect for the original poster, why not make a new thread for your coin.  I'm sure Mohawk and others would like to see it as well.  I'm sure there are other members who have not read down this far on this particular thread to see what we are talking about now.  It sounds pretty interesting and who knows, if you have a 40/60% Kennedy half, and it does in fact have rust, you may have something of value. I have never heard of a silver proof rusting.  I could only assume from what you described that you may have an off metal planchet error of sorts. If you do decide to make a thread for it, make sure you add the weight of it in 100th's of grams if you are able. Just MHO here and ya never know......   

  7. On 1/22/2022 at 1:19 PM, Chris Mikesh said:

    I also have a Kenedy (1969 S proof) that is rusting

    Hello Chris.  Your 1969-S Proof I don't believe could possibly rust granted it was struck on its intended planchet.  Being comprised of 40% silver and 60% copper, neither one of these elements are predisposed to, or are able to, rust.  I'm not a professional metallurgist but unless your half somehow contains iron, which it shouldn't..... I don't see how it could actually rust.

  8. Go back and look at what Greenstang recommended. If the areas are raised then it is probably an adhesive that should come off if you soak it in Acetone.  If the areas are incuse then it is most likely PMD.  It's hard to tell in pictures what is raised and what is incuse.  

  9. Hey @J P Mashoke.  I'm having a little trouble with this one.  In looking at the obverse, if this was a grease affected strike (greaser, struck through, etc....), it would have surely affected the letters TY in LIBERTY.  These letters appear well struck, with good relief, yet the area of distortion on the obverse encompasses these letters.  It's hard to tell from your pic if this distorted area is raised or incuse (speaking only about the obverse at this point). If it is incuse, and being that the letters are not affected, I would start leaning toward some type of planchet error/issue.  Just my thoughts here. 

  10. On 1/20/2022 at 10:31 PM, Hoghead515 said:

    Thats what was throwing me off. I figured the only way it could be is if the die was turned a little bit or something. But Im thinking it may be something else. Been nice to find two in one day. Espically the same date and mintmark. But if the die was turned it would still be out at the end of the beak prob. Just run at a slightly different angle. Im not really sure but im thinking it to good to be true. 

    I think finding one in a day is a great accomplishment my friend.  I have yet to find one.  The other noticeable thing about the second one, which is an identifier, is the lack of curvature that creates the spitting image that was obviously initially created by the die clash.  No worries, you still had a great day regardless!(thumbsu

  11. On 1/20/2022 at 8:01 PM, Hoghead515 said:

    Found another 1974 D that may be a spitting eagle. It sure looks like it under a loupe. Looks indented but in a slightly different spot. I may try to use something with a little more powerful magnification in a few days and see for sure. I dont feel as certain with this one as the other. Also the line goes up on the wing a tiny bit. 20220120_195228.thumb.jpg.12becd69fa57026f8ed8dae64d16eaca.jpg

    The first one you found and posted is for sure the spitter.  This one does not have the same characteristics and the placement of the "spit" is not in the correct location.  Hard to tell what's up from down and vice versa from pics sometimes but it looks like an incuse area from the Eagle's neck to the noticeable 'spit line'.  The 'line' on this one is also further right and starts under the beak whereas the real thing (the spit) begins slightly left of the beak.  Just my humble observation here.  I'm thinking this one was struck from a heavily abraided/over polished die.  You can also see the reduction in the relief of the Eagles right (the Eagle's left) wing details.  

  12. Hello David and welcome to the forum.  Your question, to me, is a bit ambiguous.  What do you mean by graded coins you have registered? And, One has a price but the others don't? Not sure exactly what you are asking.  If you just need pricing guidelines on coins you already have slabbed and graded by a TPG, our NGC host here has listings for all graded coins.  The link to coin prices is in the menu.  

  13. On 1/20/2022 at 1:53 PM, Hoghead515 said:

    It didnt affect it any. Youll never believe this. Found one a little better shape and traded it out by mistake. Wasnt even thinking. Forgot about it being that one. Just took it to the bank to. Lol. I must be losing my mind. Cant believe I done that. 

    Well that bites....... if you hurry up and go back to the bank maybe they'll let you search through millions of coins and find it...... :nyah:.  About your coin, it would then be considered a slight MAD if the opposite side was not affected. I know you probably already know all of this but in case a newcomer here to the forum were to read this thread at least I've tried to explain the differences. Still very neat.(thumbsu 

  14. Also @Hoghead515, I can't recollect the last time I saw a misaligned die on the reverse.  A MAD usually, from my coin searches, affects the obverse caused by the hammer die.  However.... with that being said, I am not sure how Quarters are struck these days and if they have "reversed" the orientation in which Quarters are struck at the mint.  I have read somewhere that the hammer die has always historically been used for the obverse but it seems that I also remember the mint reversed this process at some point and the hammer die was used to strike the reverse.... hopefully this all made sense.

  15. On 1/20/2022 at 1:44 PM, Hoghead515 said:

    Not a W quarter but did find one kinda neat. A tiny bit off center. Used it to fill a slot in the ole Whitman. 20220119_224905.thumb.jpg.dff1e25fe20de2c6bf06a1e63745dd2f.jpgPolish_20220120_134343799.thumb.jpg.622fcc69df91e8a6e44f09b69c75918f.jpg

    What does the obverse look like? If it has the same look then it would be termed an off center strike.  If it only affects one side of the coin then it is considered a MAD.