Coinbuf

This one arrived yesterday, a dupe but an upgrade!
 

Another new Morgan.  Hope I'm not boring everybody.  I only do Morgans (and I hope I can stop after that).  I COULD show pics of my first grandson instead :)  
This is now my most costly but not my favorite.  
 

 

This one arrived in the mail at some point...
 

Still in the GSA holder ungraded with a touch of color.

I know so I will only say very nice coin and addition to your set.

In every TPG brand of plastic you can find, undergraded gems, overgraded dogs, and right for the grade coins.  Grading is not a science it is an opinion; and opinions are subject to the feelings of the graders on that one day and might very well change on any other day.  As a buyer you have to decide what fits your definition of the grade you seek and find an example that fits your eye and definition.  Also Ebay is somewhat of a dumping ground for a large percentage of coins listed there.  I'm not saying that you cannot find nice attractive coins on Ebay, but often; always for some coins types; you have to sift through lots of garbage to find what you want.

The $10 Indian Head gold coin is a great looking coin and you should be able to find a nice MS62 or MS63 in your price range.  As an example I see that Great Collections has a very nice looking 1915 (type 4) $10 Indian gold coin PCGS graded MS63 with a starting bid of $1,100.  I would suggest looking for a CAC verified example to help maximize the value but that is your call.

Coins are a poor investment unless you have exceptional grading skills to spot the under graded/under valued coins or lots of blind luck.  Nobody can predict what coin or metal will increase or decrease in value over the next ten days much less the next 30 years.  As an example in the late 1980's classic commemorative coins were super popular and the prices were sky high, fast forward to today and those coins are not popular and those coins now sell for about 1/3 of what they were 30 years ago.  Same thing for toned coins, thirty years ago toned coins were shunned by most collectors and sold for less than bright white coins, today toned coins go for multiples of what many bright white examples fetch.  Coin and metal markets change all the time and there is no way of knowing what the market  will want in thirty years.
 
True that gold coins are always in demand but gold is not really rare in a true sense and gold prices are in constant flux.  I would not suggest buying at todays $1,700 per ounce prices (keep in mind that just a year ago gold was selling for $1,100 an ounce) unless you have some inside info that you know the price will continue to rise over the next 30 years.  I have no idea where gold prices will go from here, prices could stabilize and $1,700 an ounce may become the new norm, or prices could go higher or lower.  In a thirty year time span you might see all three price possibilities, level, up to $4,000 an ounce, down to $500 an ounce, no way to know.
 
Buying coins is a hobby where you buy them for their beauty and history, if your able to make some money when the time comes to sell that's a nice bonus but shouldn't be expected.  If you want a gold coin then I would look for a key date coin like the 1911-D indian head $2.5 gold coin or another key date gold or silver coin that you find attractive.  Key date coins have the best (not 100%) chance of holding and/or appreciating in value over time.

1) I believe the guide is compiled from auction results, I'm not sure what auction sites and while it is updated only NGC knows how frequently it is updated.
2) Tough to generalize as quality and desirability of the coins, and the small number of eyeballs that see the BST forum are big factors.  I don't think the BST prices are much lower than what could be realized from another venue (maybe 10-25% less than Ebay as an example), but the small number of people that see the threads limits the possible sales.
3) For common coins many dealers will use the bluesheet (the bluesheet and graysheet is a paid subscription that dealers can buy and is similar to your Kelly blue book thought) as a guide for offer/buy prices on common coins.  For Better date, more desirable, and eye appealing coins some dealers will get closer to retail especially if they have a ready buyer/buyers for that material.
4) What JKK said.
5) The greysheet is what some dealers use to price common coins.  For collectors the best source is to look at Heritage (Heritage Auctions) and Ebay closed auctions for guidance on what items are selling for.  You will see a bell curve for most coins and grades with the outliers being the superb and the dog examples at each end of the curve.
 
At the end of the day what you have to sell and to how is key to realized price.  A dealer needs to buy at 60-70% of retail to make money, selling to a dealer is the fastest way to sell coins but you will most likely receive the least amount.  Consigning to auction houses may or may not result in a better return but there are fees involved.  Selling yourself should net the biggest return but will require the most time to research, list, ship, etc.

Still in the GSA holder ungraded with a touch of color.

Really it comes down to the market you want to sell to and prices.  Originally these were bought and graded for a few reasons; the owners liked the safety and security of the slab, hoping for an MS70 either for a personal registry set or to sell to a registry collector around the time of release.  Now the registry collector market has been mostly satisfied and with the price of gold up even MS70's aren't selling for much over melt prices.  If I were considering selling I wouldn't bother with the grading costs and sell as is.
 
The one thing you do gain by having them graded and slabbed is if you plan to use a platform like Ebay, buyers may feel more secure that they are as advertised and not a fake.  That security may help you to sell them faster especially if your not an Ebay seller with lots of sales/feedback.

Good to see you posting again Kenneth.
 

PS: As kbbpll pointed out, above, this coin has appears twice in two different graded holders - both as MS66. A nice, high grade San Francisco dime. A label can no more change that than it can make an EF 1804 dollar uncirculated, or a MCMVII double edge a proof.
"Specimen" is not a grade or description of wear: it is, like 'proof,' a description of process and documented intent or purpose.

Numismatic terms MUST have clear, discrete meanings. Absent that clarity the word are merely a jumble of opinion, wishful thinking and lies.
Calling a coin a "specimen" indicates some sort of special treatment - something beyond the ordinary range of routine production. This definition has been in numismatics for centuries along with the non-specific "specimen" to indicate a sample piece. The U.S. Bureau and the individual mints never used the term after 1840 except in the non-specific such as "send State Department specimens of master coins for 1841 for diplomatic use," or "State Department wants 100 specimens of each of the following proof coins for 1888 for special purposes."
In numismatics "specimen" has never been a synonym for "proof" or "master" coins since about 1840. Before then it sometimes meant a specially struck coin or not - the language is nearly always ambiguous.
Nothing about the illustrated coin suggests anything except it being part of the normal range of production. If one looks at the few remaining old collections and their acquisition documentation, it will be noticed that some coins documented as coming directly from a production press under normal conditions are outstanding, and others are quite ordinary or even inferior.
To satisfy a clear, discrete meaning for "specimen" there MUST be documentation to support that contention. Hearsay, and "looks specimeny" are no good. This particular coin is even less likely to be anything "special" since it has been authenticated/graded before and evidently was not a "specimen" back then. Have we descended into ignorance so quickly - or is it simply greed - a desire to inflate, pump-up, distort, pander, influence by deceit, trick, or artifice. Pick your poison. Much as now we cannot trust any newer-assigned "grade" thanks to rampant grade inflation,  so some would extend that to making casual opinions into data-based facts.
Numismatics as a hobby is already sick. Would some now have it drink bleach as a cure?

Don't know why you guys keep entertaining this rinky-dink stuff. There's no here here.

Someone get the fork, and take me off the grill. I am done.

I cannot say for sure but I think you have the satin finish (also called SMS coins) for the 2007 and 2008 coins but an in-hand exam is the only way to be sure.  The way to tell them apart is satin finish coins will have a sandblasted low shine look, as I said some regular strike coins will be less brilliant and but wont have the sandblasted look that satin coins have.  The White Mountain "S" mint coin was not made in the satin finish only regular strikes and proof strikes.  Yours doesn't appear to be a proof so it must have been the regular strike that was only used for mint sets.
 
Anyway hope that helps and good luck on finishing the sets.

For world coins I would agree that the number of raw coins far outweighs the number of slabbed, thus the opportunity for significant pop increases is a risk if playing the top pop game.   For US coinage, and especially the key dates, the number of graded examples (especially high grade coins) is higher than the raw coins.  However because of the constant crackout game the pop reports are totally useless for a great many US coins.

I think the image of the coin is Photoshopped into the holder, also.

We need to see both sides of each coin.

Absolutely true the odds are good you would receive at least PR67 or better, the problem is that you need better than that to have any chance of recouping your cost of having them graded.

At least he didn't want to show us his moby.