Coinbuf

I'm sorry to say that the coin in your photo is not a real coin, perhaps a token or outright counterfeit but not a real 1877 Indian Head Cent.  

If you stick with NGC Variety Plus, I think you will considerably cut down on the amount you need to look at and just focus on major attributable varieties.
While Variety Vista lists varieties not recognized by the major TPG's, I think those lesser varieties wouldn't add the premium necessary to make the time spent worth it.
You could use your own approach if you want to tag each coin as that is your time to spend how you wish.
Not all varieties, even those attributable, are going to add premium let alone significant premium (such as would be the case with the 1955 DDO LWC say).

I'm sorry to say that the coin in your photo is not a real coin, perhaps a token or outright counterfeit but not a real 1877 Indian Head Cent.  

I am not aware of any major TPG that will notate die cracks for the Roosevelt dime series, especially such a microscopic one as this.   Die cracks are very common on almost every coin series and as such are seldom noted unless it is intranigral to a die state or variety identification.   That doesn't mean that there are no collectors for coins with die cracks, there are, but seldom would it be worth the cost to submit for grading.

And that is why I asked, those special labels are needed for some of the modern registry sets.   So my advice is that you reach out directly by email to NGC customer service and inquire what they need from you in the way of the original mint packaging in order for them to include the label you want.   I am not much of a modern collector myself so I cannot say what NGC requires from you the submitter to get the proper label you want.   I recommend email communication in this situation so you have a communication trail in case there are any problems or issues with the labels.
Best of luck with filling out your set, as a lifelong Lincoln cent collector I know how difficult these series with 200+ coins are to complete.

Welcome to the forum, why do you need them graded?   That is a valid question and the answer could help with understanding what you need and how best to proceed.   However, if you only want the ASE graded there is no reason you cannot send only the ASE in for grading.   But if you want the ASE label to have some special wording such as first day of issue, or dollar coin set or something along those lines then the answer to my question of why you want them graded becomes relevant as NGC may need the whole set intact to be able to provide that type of special label.
Another important question is what grade do you want/need?   If you only want an MS70 graded coin (perhaps for a registry set) then you would be better off taking @J P Ms advice and buying those coins already graded rather than spending the money grading your coins and taking the risk of a lower grade.

I do not see any match to the 13 listed on the Wexler site, it looks more like strike doubling that after metal loss and flattening due to circulation is mimicking die doubling.

Welcome to the forum, in the future it is best to start your own thread rather than tagging onto an existing one, less confusing that way.    Without at least some photos of the coin it is difficult to give you any specifics.   If you read the replies above other members have already mentioned that many gold coins have been the target of counterfeits in the past so it is the one type of coin that can benefit from TPG certification more than most.
My suggestion is for you to obtain a copy of the red book (see example below), this is the premier reference for coins.   While the values listed in the red book are often out of date, with it you can decide if any of the coins you have are just common or are any really rare.   That information will help you in deciding which coins you should consider for TPG grading by a firm like NGC.

Ok nothing wrong with ebay if you know what you are looking for and already have some idea of a base value.   Etsy is all over the place and full of scammers so I would not recommend that site.   Coin values are determined by the rarity of the coin and the condition of the coin, a very rare coin in very poor condition can be worth a lot of money and a very common coin in the very highest level of condition can also be worth a lot of money.   But unless you have, a truly rare coin, a condition rarity, or a rare error or variety coin, values for modern coins (post 1965 coins) are usually very little if any over face value.

Welcome to the NGC chat board.
      As NGC does not offer free opinions, you should post questions like these as topics on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum for the opinions of forum members.
     Based on your photos, your 1966 Lincoln cent does not exhibit any mint error but has a number of nicks and other disfiguring damage, including on the date. Coins that have been run over by motor vehicles frequently exhibit such damage.

I am not aware of any major TPG that will notate die cracks for the Roosevelt dime series, especially such a microscopic one as this.   Die cracks are very common on almost every coin series and as such are seldom noted unless it is intranigral to a die state or variety identification.   That doesn't mean that there are no collectors for coins with die cracks, there are, but seldom would it be worth the cost to submit for grading.

I'm sorry to say that the coin in your photo is not a real coin, perhaps a token or outright counterfeit but not a real 1877 Indian Head Cent.  

I would leave the sets alone. If you want to buy some graded eagles just go to a place like Heritage or Great Collections auctions or eBay. It will save you a lot of money.

Ok nothing wrong with ebay if you know what you are looking for and already have some idea of a base value.   Etsy is all over the place and full of scammers so I would not recommend that site.   Coin values are determined by the rarity of the coin and the condition of the coin, a very rare coin in very poor condition can be worth a lot of money and a very common coin in the very highest level of condition can also be worth a lot of money.   But unless you have, a truly rare coin, a condition rarity, or a rare error or variety coin, values for modern coins (post 1965 coins) are usually very little if any over face value.

Both appear to be lightly circulated so both would only be worth the face value of $1.   Where have you been looking for value references?   If you are looking on places like Ebay it is important to remember that a seller can ask anything, but that doesn't mean the coins are selling for an ask price.   Do you have a Red Book?

Welcome to the forum, please follow the guidelines for posting that are in the pinned post at the top of this section.   Yes you have a small date (not small print) and a large date, however from your photos it appears to be a zinc core copper plated coin.
And for future reference it would be better for you to start your own thread rather than tagging onto an old one.

Gold doing pretty well given all the political upheavals and turns in the UK, India, France, and the U.S.
While Bitcoin is down big in recent weeks, gold is down just a fraction.

Which do you think it is and why?   Also, it is not advisable to hold a coin in this fashion, only by the side of the rim so as not to impart skin oils onto the coin.

This is my 198?  One of the nicer grease filled coins I have ever found. It also, has some half missing devices on the reverse. Not worth a whole lot of money but a cool coin to find.

Similar battle ATS over the terminology and how coins could be "circulated" and still Mint State or something like that.  Left my head spinning. 

Damaged from a hit, end of story.

I think you are fighting a losing battle, if this is the hill you want to die on go for it.   I will continue to use AU for the foreseeable future.

I think you are fighting a losing battle, if this is the hill you want to die on go for it.   I will continue to use AU for the foreseeable future.