Coinbuf

Thanks Coinbuf, I was not quite sure what was being implied. I don't think Dave is aware we are just collectors on a chat board and have nothing to-do with, this web sites goings on. 

Nice first post, and you are in the correct portion of the forum as the marketplace should only be used for a thread to sell a coin.   Your query is a tough one to answer, even more so when you are dealing with the color designation of BN, and without seeing the coin in hand.   My experience is that at auction most BN designated coins do not sell at a higher price than what a similar graded red example would bring.   So I checked the GC archives and found there have only been 2 auctions for 1909 MS67RD coins (interestingly both in 2024) graded by NGC and both sold within $20 of each other with the higher price being $1,486.   Using that as a ceiling, and looking at what 66BN's have sold for in the past on GC I would think it would be very difficult to sell for over 1K even with a CAC bean.    I assume that you have already checked this and perhaps other auction sites for this data, the CAC price guide shows a lower guide price of $1,230 than the NGC price guide, which I also used in my analysis.   Other than consigning the coin to an auction house using price guides and any auction history of like or similar coins is really the only way I know to arrive at a value estimate.
Unless the coin has truly exceptional color, my guess is that an auction result of between $800-$1,000 would be in the range.   But if the color is really special then it could exceed my range, especially if you can get two buyers that really want it bidding against each other.   I would be surprised if any dealer would offer in the range I have suggested as they need room to mark it up, I would think a dealer would offer closer to $500.
I can certainly understand your situation, I have the only CAC approved MS66BN 1918S Lincoln cent.   Like you I really have no idea what that might be worth or bring at auction as the only CAC approved BN example.   But unlike you I do have some auction history to draw upon as a couple of other non CAC approved examples have been auctioned in the past to help give me a more defined range.

Nice first post, and you are in the correct portion of the forum as the marketplace should only be used for a thread to sell a coin.   Your query is a tough one to answer, even more so when you are dealing with the color designation of BN, and without seeing the coin in hand.   My experience is that at auction most BN designated coins do not sell at a higher price than what a similar graded red example would bring.   So I checked the GC archives and found there have only been 2 auctions for 1909 MS67RD coins (interestingly both in 2024) graded by NGC and both sold within $20 of each other with the higher price being $1,486.   Using that as a ceiling, and looking at what 66BN's have sold for in the past on GC I would think it would be very difficult to sell for over 1K even with a CAC bean.    I assume that you have already checked this and perhaps other auction sites for this data, the CAC price guide shows a lower guide price of $1,230 than the NGC price guide, which I also used in my analysis.   Other than consigning the coin to an auction house using price guides and any auction history of like or similar coins is really the only way I know to arrive at a value estimate.
Unless the coin has truly exceptional color, my guess is that an auction result of between $800-$1,000 would be in the range.   But if the color is really special then it could exceed my range, especially if you can get two buyers that really want it bidding against each other.   I would be surprised if any dealer would offer in the range I have suggested as they need room to mark it up, I would think a dealer would offer closer to $500.
I can certainly understand your situation, I have the only CAC approved MS66BN 1918S Lincoln cent.   Like you I really have no idea what that might be worth or bring at auction as the only CAC approved BN example.   But unlike you I do have some auction history to draw upon as a couple of other non CAC approved examples have been auctioned in the past to help give me a more defined range.

You are incorrect, coin talk is not a scam, they are not gaining anything or stealing or taking anything from anyone.  It was your choice to go there, open an account and post, the only thing you lost was your time which you gave by your own free will.  I am not a member there but have heard from others that have also been banned that it is heavily moderated, the common thing all those individuals have is that they were all banned, so there is that.
As a side note I did not see your name G_P when I did a google search for numismatist, the first thing to come up was wikipedia.

Makes no difference, six steps up, six steps down.

Your big mistake was buying that scope, it will only cause you to chase shadows.    What your photos show is common worthless strike/machine doubling and die erosion on the coins that have a ghosted secondary image, also common and worthless.   None of these are errors, none are the product of true hub doubling, just simple poor quality control and what happens when coin dies are used past their intended useful life.  

Here is the overlay from Mad Die Clash, as you can see it matches up with the areas in your closeup to confirm this as a die clash.   In the future it is best to post full obv and rev photos along with any close ups when asking a question

Your big mistake was buying that scope, it will only cause you to chase shadows.    What your photos show is common worthless strike/machine doubling and die erosion on the coins that have a ghosted secondary image, also common and worthless.   None of these are errors, none are the product of true hub doubling, just simple poor quality control and what happens when coin dies are used past their intended useful life.  

Your big mistake was buying that scope, it will only cause you to chase shadows.    What your photos show is common worthless strike/machine doubling and die erosion on the coins that have a ghosted secondary image, also common and worthless.   None of these are errors, none are the product of true hub doubling, just simple poor quality control and what happens when coin dies are used past their intended useful life.  

Welcome to the forum, your definition is essentially the same as NGC.   NGC will designate both 5 full steps and 6 full steps, PCGS and most other TPG's only require the 5 full steps and do not call out those that have the full six steps.
Proof nickels are expected to have full steps due to the extra care and precision of the proof minting process, as such no major TPG's designate FS on proof coinage.
Having said that, strike designations like FS or FB or FBL (full bell lines) are often applied in what can often seem like a rather random fashion and not following a strict protocol.   I have seen many FS designated nickels that do not meet the requirement in my eye, and on occasion some that are obvious but with no FS designation.

Here is the overlay from Mad Die Clash, as you can see it matches up with the areas in your closeup to confirm this as a die clash.   In the future it is best to post full obv and rev photos along with any close ups when asking a question

I agree with the possibility of acid reduction, your photos are overexposed but the surfaces look grainy and textured like it has been treated with a mild acid.

When you post images of a coin about which you have questions, please post cropped, clear images of each full side of the coin, as well as pertinent close-ups.  It is difficult to evaluate a coin well without seeing all of each side.
   Based on the current images, this Roosevelt dime exhibits clash marks on Roosevelt's ear and neck, likely from the leaves on the oak branch on the reverse die. Clash marks result from the dies coming together in the press without a planchet between them, causing partial images from one or both of the dies to be impressed onto the other and appear as mirror images on coins subsequently struck from such damaged dies. Clash marks are quite common on both modern and older U.S. coins and are most properly classified as die states, a terminology most frequently used on older (especially pre-1838) U.S. coins. On modern coins like this one they are usually referred to as quality control issues or minor mint errors.  Coins exhibiting clash marks are sometimes collected as novelties but are generally not worth a significant premium.
   

Hello and welcome to the forum!
THIS PROCESS OF STRIKING A COIN WITH AN OBJECT OR DROPPING A COIN ON A TABLE OR SURFACE TO HEAR HOW IT SOUNDS MUST STOP!!!!!!!!
METALLIC SOUND TESTS PROVE NOTHING IN THIS HOBBY!!!!
ANY OF THESE COINS WHICH IF TRULY  HAVE CONDITIONS THAT WOULD MAKE THEM VALUABLE WOULD BE SEVERELY DIMINISHED IN VALUE BY SUCH BAD PRACTICES!!!!!!!!!
Sorry to have to call this out on you specifically but there have been too many of these instances of people doing this nonsense test to a coin lately. Metallic "ping" is not any type of coin test that experienced numismatists perform.
 
The facts as noted above by Sandon are correct. This coin with its rough appearance looks to me to be either acid etched either as an experiment or to remove some surface issue, or was a ground burial that was recovered and started to circulate again. However it happened, I think this coin is underweight slightly because something bad happened to it.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please note that the "NGC Registry" forum is for topics pertaining to the use of the NGC certified coin registry. Questions about coins such as this should be posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum or the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum, where they will receive better attention. (The Administrator will likely move this topic to that forum.)
   Although the official weight of a 1948 cent was 3.11 grams, there was a legal tolerance of plus or minus 0.13 gram, so this coin when struck could have weighed as little as 2.98 grams and still been within specifications.  This coin has some wear and based upon your photos has a grainy or etched surface, possibly from exposure to an acid or other chemical, which could have also caused some weight loss.  Your description of the "obverse edge" (meaning the rim?) being "slightly sharp" suggests that someone could have scraped a small amount of metal from that area. All of these circumstances would have been due to occurrences after the coin was made and would be of no interest or value to collectors. It is also possible that the coin was struck on slightly thin planchet stock, a minor mint error or of only slight value, but that does not appear to be the case.
   Contrary to what you may have read on some websites, it is extremely unusual to find any significant mint error or other valuable coin in circulation or in random accumulations of coins. Please read the following recent article by a well-known coin dealer: Jeff Garrett: Fake News and Misinformation in Numismatics | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Damaged what we call a vise job, another pair of coins (cents) were pressed onto this coin.   This may have been intentional or by accident but just damage, welcome to the forum.

Damaged what we call a vise job, another pair of coins (cents) were pressed onto this coin.   This may have been intentional or by accident but just damage, welcome to the forum.

I was just out of diapers myself when that card was printed, but from what I have read and heard from other collectors clad coinage was generally disliked then as now.

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof, fantasies only need dreams, where is your proof?

Welcome to the NGC chat board.
      After leaving the mint, these cents of at least two different dates (1991-D and 1993-D) were clearly exposed to some chemical, environmental or otherwise, that caused their copper plating to become discolored. This discoloration would destroy any value they might have had for collectors.

OK Mike. lets try some plane old common cents. You have two dies obverse and reverse. You are saying both dies had a failure. because both sides look the same to me. I would think the odds of that would be the same as a 1982 D sd copper showing up here. I think something happened to the zinc inside 

Heat damage, your welcome.

To learn how to submit coins to NGC, go to the NGC home page (ngccoin.com) and carefully review each of the topics that appear when you move the cursor to the "Submit" tab at the top of the page, especially the first three topics, which are entitled "How to Submit" (which references most of the others and is also accessible through the link provided by @Coinbuf), "Coins We Grade & Policies", and "Services & Fees". You can obtain submission forms that you can fill in on your computer and otherwise through the fourth topic, "Submission Forms". If you live in an area near a show where NGC is accepting submissions, you can obtain information about such upcoming shows through the "Events" topic.
   To succeed in submitting coins to a grading service, it is essential that you have knowledge of how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself. However, at least some of the coins you mention (1889-CC dollars and Charlotte mint gold) would likely be of high enough value to make submission worthwhile even if they are low grade and somewhat impaired. This would also serve to authenticate them, as there are many counterfeits and alterations of such pieces. 
    Impairments that result in a "Details" adjectival grade include the various forms of "cleaning" as well as holes, scratches, various other forms of damage, whizzing, and corrosion. See NGC Details Grading | NGC (ngccoin.com). The reduction in market value due to such impairments varies with the severity of the impairment.  NGC does not encapsulate coins that it determines have an "altered surface" or "residue", as well as, of course, coins that are counterfeit or have had their dates, mintmarks, or other identifying features altered. See NGC Not Encapsulated Reasons Glossary | NGC (ngccoin.com).
   Few if any of the silver half dollars likely to be found in bank rolls obtained in the 1960s would have sufficient value (at least several hundred dollars apiece) to make submission worthwhile. If you are referring to uncirculated Kennedy half dollars from 1964 or 1968, it is extremely unlikely that any of them would achieve a high enough grade to be worth submitting. If you've heard of common date coins receiving high prices at auction and think you might have some, please read Jeff Garrett: Fake News and Misinformation in Numismatics | NGC (ngccoin.com).
  As explained by @Coinbuf, CAC (Certified Acceptance Corporation) is a separate company that, for an additional fee, places green (meaning correctly graded) or, rarely, gold (meaning perhaps undergraded) stickers on the holders of NGC and PCGS-graded coins that it determines meet its standards for such opinions, which are widely believed to be strict. Many coins submitted to CAC don't receive stickers.  CAC started its own grading service that also applies these standards last year. I don't recommend getting into this "inside baseball", at least until you have substantial experience with certified grading.

A lot to unpack here, lets see.
If you have not this LINK to the NGC submission procedures is the place to start and if you read carefully will answer your questions on how to package and what tier to use if you have a good grasp of the value of your coins, which I would hope you do from your list.   You may want to do multiple submissions depending on how you value your coins; multiple submissions can be mailed to NGC together just be sure each submission has its own submission form.   If after you review the NGC submission procedures, you are unsure of how to value your coins then you might look for an NGC certified dealer in your area from this list LINK and see if they are willing to help you with the submission process.
Depends on the coin and the reason for the details grade for common coins with minor defects you might see a 25% value reduction, but common coins with major issues like a harsh cleaning could be a 60% reduction or more.   Key dates and truly rare coins (like your Charlotte gold) will see a much smaller reduction in value due to the desirability of those coins even for major issues; perhaps as little as 10%, again this really depends on the coin and the problem.
You would not want to send everything in all those rolls, you would need to search each roll and pull out only the few that you think have a legit shot at a high grade, you would be wasting your money and the graders time sending every coin in every roll.   Again, this could be an area where a local coin shop might be willing to help you in prescreening all the rolls for solid candidates.
Not sure what you mean here, CAC is a stand-alone company that offers review services of NGC and PCGS graded coins.   If CAC approves a coin they place a small green or gold oval sticker on the slab, these are referred to in the hobby as "beans".
CAC also has a coin grading arm which does the same thing as NGC, ANACS, or PCGS, grading and encapsulation of coins.   You have the option to send your coins to any of the major grading companies, all have their pluses and minuses, how you choose is a matter of personal preference or if your goal is to sell right away then your choice might be swayed by market preference.
I hope some of this is helpful to you.

A lot to unpack here, lets see.
If you have not this LINK to the NGC submission procedures is the place to start and if you read carefully will answer your questions on how to package and what tier to use if you have a good grasp of the value of your coins, which I would hope you do from your list.   You may want to do multiple submissions depending on how you value your coins; multiple submissions can be mailed to NGC together just be sure each submission has its own submission form.   If after you review the NGC submission procedures, you are unsure of how to value your coins then you might look for an NGC certified dealer in your area from this list LINK and see if they are willing to help you with the submission process.
Depends on the coin and the reason for the details grade for common coins with minor defects you might see a 25% value reduction, but common coins with major issues like a harsh cleaning could be a 60% reduction or more.   Key dates and truly rare coins (like your Charlotte gold) will see a much smaller reduction in value due to the desirability of those coins even for major issues; perhaps as little as 10%, again this really depends on the coin and the problem.
You would not want to send everything in all those rolls, you would need to search each roll and pull out only the few that you think have a legit shot at a high grade, you would be wasting your money and the graders time sending every coin in every roll.   Again, this could be an area where a local coin shop might be willing to help you in prescreening all the rolls for solid candidates.
Not sure what you mean here, CAC is a stand-alone company that offers review services of NGC and PCGS graded coins.   If CAC approves a coin they place a small green or gold oval sticker on the slab, these are referred to in the hobby as "beans".
CAC also has a coin grading arm which does the same thing as NGC, ANACS, or PCGS, grading and encapsulation of coins.   You have the option to send your coins to any of the major grading companies, all have their pluses and minuses, how you choose is a matter of personal preference or if your goal is to sell right away then your choice might be swayed by market preference.
I hope some of this is helpful to you.