ShaneG

I would like two sets for Ireland Republic: Denomination set for 10p (5950755-036) (1969, 1971, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1978, 1980, 1982, 1985, 1986, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000) Type set for decimal coinage (1969 - 2000) - This would include halfpenny (1971-1986), penny (1971-1988), penny (1988-2000), 2 pence (1971-1988) 2 pence (1990- 2000), 5 pence (1969-1990), 5 pence (1992-2000), 10 pence (1969-1986), 10 pence (1993-2000), 20 pence (1986-2000), 50 pence (1970-2000), 50 pence (Millennium 1988), Punt (1990-2000), Punt (Nations United for Peace 1995) and Punt (Millennium 2000)

The Wyoming PF69 sells for $10, Pennsylvania sells for $12.50. This includes shipping. So with Ebay fees, if you flip 5 of this type, you will end up with about maybe $40 if you sell them to one person so you can save on shipping. So after your cost of $22 + grading fees, you are out quite a bit of money. $22 + $17x5 + $20 shipping, total cost $127 for a loss of $87.

Does the steel bold make it extra brave?

They can have a list of coins/currency in that category so you can see what you are missing. Helps me see what holes to fill.

I have been looking for a way, other than my spreadsheets, to track my coin & currency collection. I have both US and foreign coins and some US currency. The only thing that seems to cover it has been "Collector's assistant" by Carlisle. Has any one used this or seen reviews on it? I can't find any real reviews and it is a bit pricy ($100+) to just try out for myself. Thanks

Thanks!

How much time does it add to your grading times when some of my coins had to take a side trip to NCS? Does a coin going to NCS get noted on the slab? thanks

Thanks everyone. I didn’t want to send it in just to end up with a details grade.

I am having a hard time telling if this is a bag mark or a scratch. My pictures aren't the greatest but if there is some technique to differentiating the two, I would appreciate the insight. It is by the I in EIRE. Thank you

I appreciate it! I found Karl’s site and will check it out.

I am looking at Ireland coins so starting with the shillings I think. 1928-1968. There are some years that have as little as 10 graded coins. I wouldn’t expect to ever make my money back but I don’t want to be wasteful either. I do want them to be all MS. The majority of the cost would be in the grading so I figure the cost to have an MS62 coin vs an MS66 coin isn’t much. it may make sense to wait until coin shows start up again but my local shows (Texas/Oklahoma region)have 1-2 dealers per show that have decent foreign coins. Seeing any rub is tough with pictures so I stick to dealers that will state their coin is uncirculated then examine the pictures closely. I try to stick to dealers that are more focused on foreign coins. I am sure I will make a few mistakes along the way but really looking over the pictures as closely as I can.

I am starting a collection for a country that has limited certified coins. Wanted to see what suggestions everyone would have to be able to build a certified collection. I know the cost will outweigh the value on the more modern coins but I do want them certified. I can keep watching for sales and auctions on the ones that are certified or I could start looking for raw coins that seem to be high grade (still working on my grading skills). Any other thoughts? if I do buy raw and send in to NGC, should I send in more than one of a coin to try to get better grades?