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Should I go on the warpath to purchase some of these for my Wild, Wild West Signature Set?
While browsing a few of my favorite coin web sites, I've come across coins (comparable I guess to our commemorative coins) put out by the Shawnee and Poarch Creek Indians. As you all can imagine, these coins arouse my curiousity, and the Shawnee coins especially would fit in wonderfully with my Wild, Wild West signature set.
Now, since my coin budget is limited, I have questions. Can these coins be cla
This very nice 1943 Steel Penny with lustrous eye appeal would like to be slabbed, but should I?
The coin is a 1943 Steel Penny. It is incredibly beautiful in every reguard. Its a brilliant strike and the only possible flaws might not be flaws at all.
The coin has 2 small impressions (half the width of a human hair) on the front near the bottom of the bust. Looking on a modern copper penny, I dont see these, but I also dont see some of the detail this coin has. Its incredible for a zinc coat
1878-S Morgan in GSA Holder Sells for $6,800 on Ebay
Over the years, I have always been told by dealers - Buy the coin, not the holder...buy the coin, not the holder. Could they have been wrong all these years? Maybe...A recent sale on ebay makes me rethink the situation. An 1878-S Morgan silver dollar in the GSA hard pack holder recently sold for $6,800. Don't believe me.. check it out as item number 140021869861. The coin was no better than ms63, and is worth less than $100 based on the
ANSWER: When you pay NGC another $15 + S&H to correct their first error
I have a 1964 Kennedy half proof that I know is better than a 64. Under magnification you can't find a single scratch (front or back). There are no spots or discoloration anywhere. I don't know enough about coins to talk about the strength of the strike, but it looks as good as any proof I have ever had. I would love to have NGC check their work, but I can't bring myself to pay them again! First, because people are
Advice to other collectors as well as myself.
Study and look at coins you like that are totally out of your reach financially. Then, look at the ones within your reach. Find those that are far superior in eye appeal to what you cannot seem to afford, and then you've figured out what true value really is. It's easier than you think. Just remember...your critique can be just as valid as anyone elses.
If you can afford anything you want, then perhaps you could gain knowledge from examining the
although thinking with questions....
Again I sit here with my thoughts...I sometimes peruse other peoples journal entries..I HAVE NEVER...directly responded to what someone else has written except by the member contact form and questions that I pose are ALWAYS self directed and of a rhetorical nature, never soliciting a direct response VIA someone elses journal entry.I do enjoy when someone who may have read MY entries into MY journal may have some pertinent information or knowledge and shares
A Journal can have all kinds of information, trivia and notes....
Jeff S. seems to be upset that people use the journal to ask questions. What I find kind of humorous is that in his post he himself asks TWO questions..... hmmm.... a double standard perhaps.
Just thought I would mention that... God forbid I might actually ask a question!!
Respectfully (well almost)
Michael Cooper
1963 25c P
should there be different standards for grading coins from within the same series...
First let me say that I think the Third Party Grading system is great{meaning the top 3or4 companies of course}.They add security to your purchase, help set an industry standard, preserve these works of art, and they get the grading right most of the time{except for my coins which are all under-graded..}.I was thinking about how certain coins within a series..ex: the 1917-S obv and rev Walkers...have consisten
What a set of Indian Head Cents that would make.....
around $76,000.oo for a set of IHC in MS-65RD with a little left over for some varieties in lower grades....what a set...what a dream...what a hallucination..the chances of my ever having a complete set of Indians in Ms-60 is slim...but who knows..stranger things have been known to happen
or open mouth and remove foot!!!
I don't know what I was thinking about last night when I was writing my journal entry, but it evidently wasn't coins. I have no idea why I typed Roosevelt dimes when I know I should have typed Mercury dimes!!!!!
I hope everyone got a good laugh out of it. Now, if you'll please excuse me while I go to surgically remove a size 9 foot from my mouth. :-)
The coins have made it to quality control from receiving, turnaround time still at 10 days. QUALITY control is a good sign. Will advise when I get the WHITE FLAG for last Lap.
Things moved along from receiving to quality control. Will advise if times change.
NGC designation change
I'm new to this grading, but I had a question concerning a designation change at the last minute. I put in a first strike SBA 1979-P (Unsure of Wide vs. Narrow). So I had no designation on it. After receiving my order....NGC put Wide Rim on the designation and it has been on that coin all the way through their process. I just received the ready to be shipped notice and now the designation has changed to Narrow Rim. Sounds fishy to me, but I am a novice. Is that
when last we left you....I had received a phone call from Mr. Taylor..promising certain actions.......
During this call James had stated that he intended to send me a refund and some gift certificates for grading so that I could give him and his company another chance. He did in fact refund a portion of the charges, and send three certificates for five day grading, also requesting that I notify him when I sent in my next submission. I felt that notifying him was not a true test of any improv
redeemable at any coin dealer/ auction as cash
OK..so I'm a dreamer. I correspond via email with a few other collectors who recently posed this question with each other. "What would you buy if you had a $100,000 gift certificate that you could use for the purchase of any coin/s?" The answer is...I'm not sure. Would I fill holes in existing sets, buy 1 dream coin {a $100,000 coin IS a dream for most of us}...3 or 4 really nice coins in the $25K range...hmmm...so far my list goes like this{usin
?W? and ?T? were once used to describe coins as ?White? or ?Toned?. The practice was short lived and is no longer used
that is how it was explained in the NGC forum
Imagine my surprise when I entered my Georgia D state quarter into the registry...
Last week I bought a 1999-D Georgia state quarter, which was graded MS 67 "W" by NGC, from an eBay seller for $34.06. I bought it to add to my Statehood Quarters 1999-Date registry set, which I simply named "W."
After I submitted the information to the registry, I was shocked that my ranking shot up by four steps. I went back into my set and was even more shocked to see that Numismedia values this coin at $88
Doubled or Overdate???
First let me say that I do not consider myself the world's greatest coin expert, especially for Roosevelt dimes. When I looked at the 1942 dime picture, my first impression was it was just a doubled strike, rather than an overdate. Now, I'll admit that maybe my reading of the definitions were not understood correctly. I thought an overdate was caused by a date punch (in this case 1942) over the previous date (1941 or over the current 1942).
I do think that it's not a n
Must be changing the tires and refilling the gas tank...
Looking at my order status today they are still in receiving. At day 8 still in receiving and turn around time still listed at 10 days for World Value. Looks like BS to me. It's not going to happen unless something freezes over. But beyond that, on Tuesday someone called from NGC to get me to give expiration date on credit card. That is odd... I paid by check. But I called and low and behold... I don't know, yep your check cleare
Not so for all dates -- it could be quite the opposite.
If all you're after is PF-69 or lower, I agree. However, if you want the perfect 70, it's quite the opposite.
A 2000-S Sac Dollar runs anywhere from $200 to about $500 on ebay. Buying the coins raw and sending them in would probably cost less.
Granted for recent issues (i.e. 2006), it's probably cheaper to get them slabbed rather than send in your own.
Its cheaper to buy NGC and PCGS modern proofs already certified.
Almost all modern proofs right from the Mint will grade PF69UC. In most cases it is cheaper and quicker to buy the coin already graded by NGC or PCGS. Just take a look at eBay.
But why certify modern proofs from the Mint? They come in nice holders, they look great, and you can put them in albums. Sure, I have some in slabs, but most are in albums or the original Mint holders. I do like this one.
2005-S SLA
To Cross, or not to Cross?
Damsel, there's a good chance that if you submit coins in "unknown" slabs to NGC for crossover, you'll get back all the coins just as you submitted them, except with nice labels on them that say "Does not cross".
My suggestion if you want them in NGC holders - crack them out of their current slabs and submit them raw
***** OR *****
Submit them as-is for grading with a note on the invoice, keep it short. "NOT CROSSOVER - Encapsulate at actual NGC Grade, even
Another aphorism to consider: "Don't throw good money after bad."
You've learned the hard way that there are very few grading services worth spending your hard-earned money on. Now you have to avoid trying to correct one mistake with another. You should only have your coins graded if you believe that, after grading, the coins will be worth at least what they're worth in the current holders (probably next to nothing), plus the cost of the additional grading. That?s Economics 101. At $12.50